Kayak Fishing Adventures on Big Water’s Edge  

Go Back   Kayak Fishing Adventures on Big Water’s Edge > Kayak Fishing Forum - Message Board > General Kayak Fishing Discussion
Home Forum Online Store Information LJ Webcam Gallery Register FAQ Community Calendar Today's Posts Search

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 06-04-2017, 01:37 PM   #1
SHRED
Member
 
SHRED's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Encinitas (Leucadia), CA
Posts: 94
Kayak car rack assist

My lower back is not in good enough shape anymore to hoist my Outback on to the roof rack on my Honda CR-V.

Any suggestions?
I'm looking at the Thule Hulavator. Is it pretty much the gold standard or are there other options?
I don't want a trailer.
Thanks.
SHRED is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-04-2017, 01:49 PM   #2
Hunters Pa
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Fullerton
Posts: 1,359
I put carpet and all-purpose utility hooks on a couple 8 foot 2x4s to help slide the kayak onto my rack on a gmc envoy. Hoisting a hack up to 7+ feet after a day on the water was a bit much. But, for my PA I use a trailer
Hunters Pa is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-04-2017, 02:17 PM   #3
kirkdavis
Senior Member
 
kirkdavis's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: SD County
Posts: 360
I have an Outback CRV combo and made a T-bar to assist similar to ones you can buy. I only have to lift one end at a time.
Reading about the hulavator it only assists with up to 40 pounds from waist high. Sounds like you have to lift the whole 80 up to waist high to get it on. I like my T-bar and I'm 56 with periodical back problems.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
kirkdavis is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-04-2017, 03:43 PM   #4
steve999
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 39
Yakima makes what they call a "boat loader". It's just a bar inside one of the roof crossbars that telescopes out. Allows you to put one end of the kayak on the bar, so you only have to lift one end at a time. Requires yakima round roof rack though.
steve999 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-04-2017, 04:21 PM   #5
SHRED
Member
 
SHRED's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Encinitas (Leucadia), CA
Posts: 94
Thanks for the replies

I gotta do something.
I'd hate to ruin a fishing trip or worse by wrenching my back.
SHRED is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-04-2017, 04:54 PM   #6
MrPukaShell
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Ventura COunty
Posts: 521
I watched a guy load his Outback by himself using the Yakima bar extender. He extended the bar on the front rack and lifted the front of the Outback on to the bar. He had a little bungie or something to keep it from sliding off. Then went to the back and lifted it on. Look on Youtube and there are examples.
MrPukaShell is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-04-2017, 05:22 PM   #7
Mahigeer
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 1,891
Defjack uses the extender and he makes it looks easy. He is in good shape for his age.


I am waiting to hear from Andy so I can go to OEX to pickup my Thule Helluvator. Not cheap since I had to buy Thule cross bars too, so I can use the Helluvator.

I will post about it.

Since it will store the kayak on one side, there will be room for a roof carrier on the other part of the roof. If needed, I hope there is enough room inside the cab for my gear for Baja, so I don't need the roof carrier.

There are many YouTube posts.
Mahigeer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-04-2017, 05:35 PM   #8
kirkdavis
Senior Member
 
kirkdavis's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: SD County
Posts: 360
Tried that

Quote:
Originally Posted by steve999 View Post
Yakima makes what they call a "boat loader". It's just a bar inside one of the roof crossbars that telescopes out. Allows you to put one end of the kayak on the bar, so you only have to lift one end at a time. Requires yakima round roof rack though.
I made one of those before the T-bar I ended up with. The problem is, you still need to lift one end up higher than your shoulders. Then you have to go lift the other end to the same height and wrangle it around to get it slid sideways onto the car top. With the T-bar, you lift one end up to about high belly/low chest, then walk to the bottom end, lift and push, and it slides right up onto the roof.
kirkdavis is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-04-2017, 06:24 PM   #9
Dave Legacy
Senior Member
 
Dave Legacy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Hacienda Heights, CA
Posts: 427
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mahigeer View Post
Defjack uses the extender and he makes it looks easy. He is in good shape for his age.


I am waiting to hear from Andy so I can go to OEX to pickup my Thule Helluvator. Not cheap since I had to buy Thule cross bars too, so I can use the Helluvator.

I will post about it.

Since it will store the kayak on one side, there will be room for a roof carrier on the other part of the roof. If needed, I hope there is enough room inside the cab for my gear for Baja, so I don't need the roof carrier.

There are many YouTube posts.
Gonna do one of the narrow roof boxes? I have a Yakima Skybox 21 and when it's up there nothing else will fit next to it, but I'm also using factory crossbars which tend to be narrower than aftermarket. The Yakima Rocketpod looks good for your application.
Dave Legacy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-04-2017, 06:38 PM   #10
Snags
Senior Member
 
Snags's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Culver City
Posts: 103
I have a CRV with a hullavator.
Had back surgery about 4 years ago and it's been a big help. You do have to lift the yak around waist high.
I have a Trident 13 so it's fairly light and haven't had any issues
Downside is the cost but it has been worth it.
Just make sure you take it off before you go in low parking garages.
Snags is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-04-2017, 07:03 PM   #11
Mahigeer
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 1,891
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Legacy View Post
Gonna do one of the narrow roof boxes? I have a Yakima Skybox 21 and when it's up there nothing else will fit next to it, but I'm also using factory crossbars which tend to be narrower than aftermarket. The Yakima Rocketpod looks good for your application.
Long ago, I got a soft roof carrier for a fishing trip to up north. I have not used it since!

And thanks for the tip about the Hullavator.
Mahigeer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-04-2017, 07:46 PM   #12
SHRED
Member
 
SHRED's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Encinitas (Leucadia), CA
Posts: 94
Quote:
Originally Posted by Snags View Post
I have a CRV with a hullavator.
Had back surgery about 4 years ago and it's been a big help. You do have to lift the yak around waist high.
I have a Trident 13 so it's fairly light and haven't had any issues
Downside is the cost but it has been worth it.
Just make sure you take it off before you go in low parking garages.
Good to know. Thanks.

How long do my crossbars need to be to house 2 Hullavators?
SHRED is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-04-2017, 07:56 PM   #13
Mahigeer
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 1,891
Quote:
Originally Posted by SHRED View Post
Good to know. Thanks.

How long do my crossbars need to be to house 2 Hullavators?


They need to be at leas 4"-6" past the side railing. This insures the Hullavator stays prod of the car body. That way the car is protected.
Mahigeer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-04-2017, 08:11 PM   #14
SHRED
Member
 
SHRED's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Encinitas (Leucadia), CA
Posts: 94
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mahigeer View Post
They need to be at leas 4"-6" past the side railing. This insures the Hullavator stays prod of the car body. That way the car is protected.
Side railing?
Is that the foot mount that attaches to the vehicle?
SHRED is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-04-2017, 09:22 PM   #15
Hunters Pa
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Fullerton
Posts: 1,359
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mahigeer View Post
They need to be at leas 4"-6" past the side railing. This insures the Hullavator stays prod of the car body. That way the car is protected.
Couldn't you use the hullivator to get the yak to the roof, move it to a rack, then use the hullivator again for a second yak?
Hunters Pa is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-04-2017, 11:31 PM   #16
Dave Legacy
Senior Member
 
Dave Legacy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Hacienda Heights, CA
Posts: 427
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mahigeer View Post
Long ago, I got a soft roof carrier for a fishing trip to up north. I have not used it since!

And thanks for the tip about the Hullavator.
I'm glad to have been helpful. =)
Dave Legacy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-05-2017, 06:50 AM   #17
Mahigeer
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 1,891
Rather than me trying to paint a picture, I recommend to check out YouTube for many posts.

Since the kayak sits in a clam style bracket, one unit per kayak. It can not be used only for lifting.

Thus, to have two kayaks, one would need two Hullavator. However, if a long enough cross bar is used, one set is all one needs.
Mahigeer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-05-2017, 08:44 AM   #18
Denis_Ruso
Senior Member
 
Denis_Ruso's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 571
back seats folded down, hatch open and http://www.austinkayak.com/products/...FU1ufgodZCwOyw
__________________
2018 Hobie Outback 13

I do not fear the storm as it will teach me how to sail my ship.
Denis_Ruso is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-05-2017, 12:55 PM   #19
JJ
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Thousand Oaks, CA
Posts: 80
I have a similar dilemma.
Trident Prowler 15 gets to be a handful when loading after a day on the water.

Here is something you might want to consider.
It's called Rhino Rack. Check it out.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MSeHSCfHniQ

Good luck. Regards.

-JJ-
JJ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-05-2017, 04:14 PM   #20
Mahigeer
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 1,891
My problem with loading from the back was the fact that once I lifted the front and put it on the Yakima holder, then the kayak would slip back. The rear of the kayak would also be scraping on the concrete and get marked.
No place to grab either. Later I used a tarp or cardboard on the ground, and used the rear strap attached to the back handle to keep the kayak from slipping.

I even have a roller bar with suction cups that supposed to allow for ease of sliding of the kayak once parallel to the roof. After that it was going from side to side and using a step ladder to tie down the kayak and get on the hood to attach the front strap. Then repeat the same for unloading.

With Hullavator once kayak is lifted to waist high, and positioned on the holder, the kayak can be strapped and front and rear (provided) ratcheting straps can be attached. No step ladder necessary.

It seems the hardest part is to lift and lower the kayak waist high while holding the middle handles.
Mahigeer is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -8. The time now is 11:22 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
© 2002 Big Water's Edge. All rights reserved.