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Old 06-04-2017, 06:03 PM   #1
Mahigeer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Legacy View Post
Gonna do one of the narrow roof boxes? I have a Yakima Skybox 21 and when it's up there nothing else will fit next to it, but I'm also using factory crossbars which tend to be narrower than aftermarket. The Yakima Rocketpod looks good for your application.
Long ago, I got a soft roof carrier for a fishing trip to up north. I have not used it since!

And thanks for the tip about the Hullavator.
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Old 06-04-2017, 10:31 PM   #2
Dave Legacy
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Originally Posted by Mahigeer View Post
Long ago, I got a soft roof carrier for a fishing trip to up north. I have not used it since!

And thanks for the tip about the Hullavator.
I'm glad to have been helpful. =)
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Old 06-05-2017, 05:50 AM   #3
Mahigeer
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Rather than me trying to paint a picture, I recommend to check out YouTube for many posts.

Since the kayak sits in a clam style bracket, one unit per kayak. It can not be used only for lifting.

Thus, to have two kayaks, one would need two Hullavator. However, if a long enough cross bar is used, one set is all one needs.
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Old 06-05-2017, 07:44 AM   #4
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back seats folded down, hatch open and http://www.austinkayak.com/products/...FU1ufgodZCwOyw
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Old 06-05-2017, 11:55 AM   #5
JJ
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I have a similar dilemma.
Trident Prowler 15 gets to be a handful when loading after a day on the water.

Here is something you might want to consider.
It's called Rhino Rack. Check it out.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MSeHSCfHniQ

Good luck. Regards.

-JJ-
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Old 06-05-2017, 03:14 PM   #6
Mahigeer
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My problem with loading from the back was the fact that once I lifted the front and put it on the Yakima holder, then the kayak would slip back. The rear of the kayak would also be scraping on the concrete and get marked.
No place to grab either. Later I used a tarp or cardboard on the ground, and used the rear strap attached to the back handle to keep the kayak from slipping.

I even have a roller bar with suction cups that supposed to allow for ease of sliding of the kayak once parallel to the roof. After that it was going from side to side and using a step ladder to tie down the kayak and get on the hood to attach the front strap. Then repeat the same for unloading.

With Hullavator once kayak is lifted to waist high, and positioned on the holder, the kayak can be strapped and front and rear (provided) ratcheting straps can be attached. No step ladder necessary.

It seems the hardest part is to lift and lower the kayak waist high while holding the middle handles.
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Old 06-07-2017, 10:52 AM   #7
Mr. NiceGuy
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I like the idea of a small trailer too. Doubles as a wash rack and storage rack. Wheel it around like a dolly. Everything is thigh high and easily accessible.

Use a couple of parallel PVC pipes as convenient hull sliders the way Kirk Davis did in his picture above.

Possible side tubes or long, lidded plywood boxes for stowing/locking poles and other gear that is inconvenient for a small car interior.

I had an old, small 4'x4'x1' deep box trailer from Sears once for carrying folded display panels to art shows & trade shows behind my VW Bug. Disconnected from my VW, and wheeled it right in to my booth. That would have been an oh-so-easy conversion with top tube hull sliders and compartmentalized storage inside the 1' deep box part of the trailer.

The tongue would have to be lengthened for a kayak.



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Another interesting thought would be to build a set of street worthy wheels with a long lightweight tongue from steel tubing that fits in the scupper holes the way kayak cart wheels pop in. The kayak itself becomes the trailer. Maybe a couple of scrap front motorcycle wheels on a fabricated "Scupper-T"? Sounds like a fun day at a motorcycle swap meet to scrounge the parts. If your car lights are visible, I would skip the wiring altogether for a red flag on the back.

Just a thought. Lightweight motorbikes are safe and stable on the freeway, so why not? I think I would defer to Kirk for sound mechanical engineering. If the rig was light enough, it might replace overpriced deluxe Hobie wheels altogether, and deliver your kayak right into the water

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Regarding your own particular travel needs, is the RV you are referring to a motorhome? That would offer some interesting space to work with too.

Pondering all of the above, I think my next vehicle will be a MB Sprinter, 4WD. I'll add a small portable toilet, portable pump shower, and re-register as a motorhome. They are 20' long and my kayak will slide in the back as easily as it does now into my 20' Chevy Express passenger van with the seats removed.

Too many toys, too little time. Yipee!

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Last edited by Mr. NiceGuy; 06-07-2017 at 11:23 AM.
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Old 06-06-2017, 03:43 PM   #8
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Got harbor freight trailer

Quote:
Originally Posted by JJ View Post
I have a similar dilemma.
Trident Prowler 15 gets to be a handful when loading after a day on the water.

Here is something you might want to consider.
It's called Rhino Rack. Check it out.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MSeHSCfHniQ

Good luck. Regards.

-JJ-
But was looking for other transportation options for longer trips. 55 speed limit is slowwwww. So I got the rhino load assist but I can not give a review yet because the Thule dock glide saddles I ordered are giving me install trouble with factory rack on a 4-runner. Maybe I will do a return and try Yakima? Any recommendations for saddles on a 2013 4-runner? I currently own an outback and also 2017 trident 15. The trident is a beast and topping it by self after a long day will probably lead to injury of self or vehicle.
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