Kayak car rack assist - Kayak Fishing Adventures on Big Water’s Edge

Mahigeer · 06-05-2017, 03:14 PM

My problem with loading from the back was the fact that once I lifted the front and put it on the Yakima holder, then the kayak would slip back. The rear of the kayak would also be scraping on the concrete and get marked.
No place to grab either. Later I used a tarp or cardboard on the ground, and used the rear strap attached to the back handle to keep the kayak from slipping.

I even have a roller bar with suction cups that supposed to allow for ease of sliding of the kayak once parallel to the roof. After that it was going from side to side and using a step ladder to tie down the kayak and get on the hood to attach the front strap. Then repeat the same for unloading.

With Hullavator once kayak is lifted to waist high, and positioned on the holder, the kayak can be strapped and front and rear (provided) ratcheting straps can be attached. No step ladder necessary.

It seems the hardest part is to lift and lower the kayak waist high while holding the middle handles.

Mr. NiceGuy · 06-07-2017, 10:52 AM

I like the idea of a small trailer too. Doubles as a wash rack and storage rack. Wheel it around like a dolly. Everything is thigh high and easily accessible.

Use a couple of parallel PVC pipes as convenient hull sliders the way Kirk Davis did in his picture above.

Possible side tubes or long, lidded plywood boxes for stowing/locking poles and other gear that is inconvenient for a small car interior.

I had an old, small 4'x4'x1' deep box trailer from Sears once for carrying folded display panels to art shows & trade shows behind my VW Bug. Disconnected from my VW, and wheeled it right in to my booth. That would have been an oh-so-easy conversion with top tube hull sliders and compartmentalized storage inside the 1' deep box part of the trailer.

The tongue would have to be lengthened for a kayak.

__________________

Another interesting thought would be to build a set of street worthy wheels with a long lightweight tongue from steel tubing that fits in the scupper holes the way kayak cart wheels pop in. The kayak itself becomes the trailer. Maybe a couple of scrap front motorcycle wheels on a fabricated "Scupper-T"? Sounds like a fun day at a motorcycle swap meet to scrounge the parts. If your car lights are visible, I would skip the wiring altogether for a red flag on the back.

Just a thought. Lightweight motorbikes are safe and stable on the freeway, so why not? I think I would defer to Kirk for sound mechanical engineering. If the rig was light enough, it might replace overpriced deluxe Hobie wheels altogether, and deliver your kayak right into the water

__________________

Regarding your own particular travel needs, is the RV you are referring to a motorhome? That would offer some interesting space to work with too.

Pondering all of the above, I think my next vehicle will be a MB Sprinter, 4WD. I'll add a small portable toilet, portable pump shower, and re-register as a motorhome. They are 20' long and my kayak will slide in the back as easily as it does now into my 20' Chevy Express passenger van with the seats removed.

Too many toys, too little time. Yipee!

Mr. NiceGuy · 06-07-2017, 11:39 AM

I just looked up Malone trailers. Nice design ideas.

Jet Ski trailers look more substantial and are $1000 cheaper.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...mmc=Google-pla

06-07-2017, 10:52 AM	#2
Mr. NiceGuy Manic for Life Join Date: May 2015 Location: San Diego Posts: 839	I like the idea of a small trailer too. Doubles as a wash rack and storage rack. Wheel it around like a dolly. Everything is thigh high and easily accessible. Use a couple of parallel PVC pipes as convenient hull sliders the way Kirk Davis did in his picture above. Possible side tubes or long, lidded plywood boxes for stowing/locking poles and other gear that is inconvenient for a small car interior. I had an old, small 4'x4'x1' deep box trailer from Sears once for carrying folded display panels to art shows & trade shows behind my VW Bug. Disconnected from my VW, and wheeled it right in to my booth. That would have been an oh-so-easy conversion with top tube hull sliders and compartmentalized storage inside the 1' deep box part of the trailer. The tongue would have to be lengthened for a kayak. __________________ Another interesting thought would be to build a set of street worthy wheels with a long lightweight tongue from steel tubing that fits in the scupper holes the way kayak cart wheels pop in. The kayak itself becomes the trailer. Maybe a couple of scrap front motorcycle wheels on a fabricated "Scupper-T"? Sounds like a fun day at a motorcycle swap meet to scrounge the parts. If your car lights are visible, I would skip the wiring altogether for a red flag on the back. Just a thought. Lightweight motorbikes are safe and stable on the freeway, so why not? I think I would defer to Kirk for sound mechanical engineering. If the rig was light enough, it might replace overpriced deluxe Hobie wheels altogether, and deliver your kayak right into the water __________________ Regarding your own particular travel needs, is the RV you are referring to a motorhome? That would offer some interesting space to work with too. Pondering all of the above, I think my next vehicle will be a MB Sprinter, 4WD. I'll add a small portable toilet, portable pump shower, and re-register as a motorhome. They are 20' long and my kayak will slide in the back as easily as it does now into my 20' Chevy Express passenger van with the seats removed. Too many toys, too little time. Yipee! __________________ Another ho-hum day in Paradise Last edited by Mr. NiceGuy; 06-07-2017 at 11:23 AM.

06-07-2017, 11:39 AM	#3
Mr. NiceGuy Manic for Life Join Date: May 2015 Location: San Diego Posts: 839	I just looked up Malone trailers. Nice design ideas. Jet Ski trailers look more substantial and are $1000 cheaper. http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...mmc=Google-pla __________________ Another ho-hum day in Paradise

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06-05-2017, 03:14 PM	#1
Mahigeer Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Los Angeles Posts: 1,908	My problem with loading from the back was the fact that once I lifted the front and put it on the Yakima holder, then the kayak would slip back. The rear of the kayak would also be scraping on the concrete and get marked. No place to grab either. Later I used a tarp or cardboard on the ground, and used the rear strap attached to the back handle to keep the kayak from slipping. I even have a roller bar with suction cups that supposed to allow for ease of sliding of the kayak once parallel to the roof. After that it was going from side to side and using a step ladder to tie down the kayak and get on the hood to attach the front strap. Then repeat the same for unloading. With Hullavator once kayak is lifted to waist high, and positioned on the holder, the kayak can be strapped and front and rear (provided) ratcheting straps can be attached. No step ladder necessary. It seems the hardest part is to lift and lower the kayak waist high while holding the middle handles.