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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: San Diego
Posts: 490
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Hull repair?
When I got home a found a big ding in the bottom of the keel. There is a small hole about the size of a pencil lead through the hull. The question is....can this be repaired or am I screwed? I'm very comfortable on the old Fish n Dive. I would hate to give her up over a pin hole. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Sherm |
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#2 |
Rookie of the Month Club
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Mira Mesa
Posts: 483
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I'm no expert but I'm pretty sure the guys at OEX can fix it up.
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#3 |
Guest
Posts: n/a
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Hey Sherm,
Here's some advice. Don't take your kayak to Wes in Gardena for repairs. I took my kayak there over a year ago for leak repairs. Which I paid for, no arguments. When I got it back, I let my brother-in-law use it. I almost drown him, since, I never checked their repairs, and assumed they did good work. It still leaked, in a bad way. So, I took it back last Dec. And I've been getting the run around ever since. The last conversion I had, last week, went like this: We can't afford to repair the expensive welding gun it takes to repair your kayak. We can't afford to have any repair workers on staff. Come and get your kayak, and repair it somewhere else. Apparently, Corbra doesn't honor its "life time warranty" anymore. Sad, since I've been promoting the FnD, to many of my friends, and club members. They all bought one. I feel bad for leading people down the wrong path. |
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: San Diego
Posts: 490
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Thanks for letting me where not to go Yani.
I'll start with the OEX guys. I know they don't deal with Cobra but they may know how to repair or be able to point me in the right direction. Unfortunately...the place I bought it is out of business. At least it's the same spot OEX now occupies. |
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#5 |
Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: lincoln acres
Posts: 60
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last I heard rick was down off Morena blvd by sears outlet, I believe he is still there and know he will fix it he has fixed larger holes than that in my fnd from screws used to hold scotty mounts.
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FAITH, FAMILY, FIREARMS, FISHING When the people fear their government, there is tyranny; when the government fears the people, there is liberty. Thomas Jefferson |
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#6 |
Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 84
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fix it your self
Get stainless steel screw with a diameter(not the outside of the threads) that is a little bit larger then the hole ,then if you have access to the area inside, shape a piece of good mahogany or teak that is bigger then the hole by three inches or so from the hole in each direction,and thicker then the screww is long. Use goop or any type of flexible glue on the bottom of the wood and the surface around the hole inside.Make sure the surfaces are clean.Have the wood have a small pilot hole and screw has a neoprene washer and metal washer. And screw that thing in good and tight.
You probably have 2-3 psi of water pressure to keep out so it shouldn't be too difficult. That is unless your like a friend of mine with two college degrees that can cross thread a wing nut on a battery terminal!Then you could pay some dope like me that didn't graduate from highschool to do it! Shit you can figure out how to use a computor! I did a repair just like that on an aluminum boat that lasted 15 years!If the wood is good and dry when installed it will swell when wet. If you get the mating surfaces shaped pretty similar it should work dam well.The bonus is that now you have a skid plate on the bottom! |
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#7 |
bing!
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: socal
Posts: 246
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ICEMAN can have somebody weld that up with PE in no time. I have seen 2 inch wide cuts welded elsewhere. It wasnt pretty, but it worked
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#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: San Diego
Posts: 134
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More DIY
The screw sounds like a good idea. Unless its on the keel that would be exposed to the ground (dragging on the beach, loading etc.)
Another option would be to get a plastic welding kit (think they have reasonable prices on them at Harbor freight) Then you could practice on a scrap, or somewhere else on the kayak to get the temperature and technique right. Otherwise, as always, oex is a great option. |
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#9 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: San Diego
Posts: 490
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Quote:
I was thingking the same thing. But the hole is so far back on the yak that trying to get to it on the inside will be an issue. I'll probably just ahve the OEX guys do it. |
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#10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: San Diego
Posts: 2,385
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#11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 167
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A spearo, but we are in this MLPA mess together |
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#12 |
Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 52
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The bug machine is taking on water not good. Take it down to OEX they will fix it back up. Hope you guys had a good day on the water other than the hole.
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#13 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 520
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Thats a very easy fix! Take it down and have it fixed at OEX, I cant Imagine they would charge and arm and a leg for somethign simple. You can use hulcliner on the inside of the yak where the hole is to reinforce and help close the hole.
If you got a Tortch and a repair stick, you can fix it yourself, but I'd be carefull unless u know what ur doin |
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#14 | |
Guerro Grande
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 629
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Quote:
HHHhhmmmmhhhh! Torch bad. Fire Bad. Fire on kayak-bad. Hhhmmmmmhhh. Kayak melt! ![]() ![]() Practice on something other than your kayak before taking a torch to it. Bad things can happen.
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Douglas Gaxiola |
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#15 |
Member
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I'm sure Iceman could fix it he did a great job filling in the scupper from the fish hold of my X13!
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#16 |
greenscales
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Monrovia
Posts: 116
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I got what you need
Sherm,
PM or call me. Wes gave me a bunch of repair materials for Cobras to take down to Costa Rica last Spring for some guides, I have a little left over. It comes in a long, solid strip the thickness of a straw. You use a cheap/low powered soldering iron to melt it while touching the kayak to soften up the plastic (preferably from the inside). It takes a while, and the tip of the iron looks like crap when you are done, but it works. I've used it to make some major repairs on the stern keel of my Tourer, and it worked great. I actually beefed it up. I was thinking about hitting up LJ tomorrow or Wed, let me know I can bring some of the material and the soldering iron I use. greenscales |
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#17 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: San Diego
Posts: 490
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I went down to OEX yesterday evening. They fixed it right up. Ready to get back on the water. Well.....as soon as Fred Hall is over.
If Any of you guys are going to the show......stop by and say hello at my companies booth. (5th Avenue Insurance) It would be nice to put faces to names. We will be up there schlepping insurance. We are also raffling off a seeker rod and Sealine reel combo. I look forward to seeing everyone. Tight Lines. |
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#18 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Lahina (I Wish)
Posts: 272
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Repair
Andy fixed a crack in my X Factor...he can fix anything! oh! and handles and straps and....
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#19 |
Junior
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: San Diego
Posts: 11
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Soldering iron and a piece of plastic scrap from a boat does the trick. I have repaired my FnD keel twice now. First repair lasted 3 years, the second was just last week. I have the scrap from my hatch install, which is kind of useful. I'm sure any dealer would spare you a piece of plastic.
That being said, I'm sure the guys at OEX would do a great job. |
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#20 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Redlands CA
Posts: 871
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I havent needed it,but when I added a hatch I made sure I kept he cutout for just such a reason.people take note.
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Barachit Baralah,Elohim-In the beginning,God-Genesis 1:1 ![]() "Who among you,if your son asked for a fish would give them a serpent " Jesus Matt. 7:10 |
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