Playing in the surf

[GregAndrew]

Been looking for a good weekend to mess around in the surf at San Onofre, and got a couple of them back-to-back. On July 1, it was supposed to be 1-2' so I was planning on only fishing. But when I got there, and more importantly when I landed, I saw some nice sets of 3-5'. I went out between the two areas that had rideable waves, because that is where I would be out of the way of the paddle surfers. It turned out to be a great call for honing my stay on top skills. It was a blast! I just kept trying larger waves, until there were no larger ones. I had several new wave riding experiences that I was able to survive (including a reverse slide). I left the GoPro in the car, because I had removed the dive housing and was just using the camera itself to get better audio. After no more than getting a bit sideways in my seat, I wished I had brought it along.

Well, last Sunday came along with a forecast of 2-3', which was pretty good for another try. Got the morning fishing (and not catching) out of the way and put the gear away. Headed back out and had another great time. Had my second experience with a reverse slide that seemed to go on forever. Anyway, this time I took out the camera. It is a bit long, but you can skip the first 6:53 for the fishing launch and landing, or all the way to 7:53 for the surf landing survival part.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XTpS7qZUMQ

[wiredantz]

your a beast, Greg.





That is some top notch wave riding skills right, there.

[makobob]

REVERSE Slide so thats what they call it. Sure could feel your grin coming out of it. Nice.

[Fiskadoro]

Originally Posted by GregAndrew

Been looking for a good weekend to mess around in the surf at San Onofre, and got a couple of them back-to-back. On July 1, it was supposed to be 1-2' so I was planning on only fishing. But when I got there, and more importantly when I landed, I saw some nice sets of 3-5'. I went out between the two areas that had rideable waves, because that is where I would be out of the way of the paddle surfers. It turned out to be a great call for honing my stay on top skills. It was a blast! I just kept trying larger waves, until there were no larger ones. I had several new wave riding experiences that I was able to survive (including a reverse slide). I left the GoPro in the car, because I had removed the dive housing and was just using the camera itself to get better audio. After no more than getting a bit sideways in my seat, I wished I had brought it along.

Well, last Sunday came along with a forecast of 2-3', which was pretty good for another try. Got the morning fishing (and not catching) out of the way and put the gear away. Headed back out and had another great time. Had my second experience with a reverse slide that seemed to go on forever. Anyway, this time I took out the camera. It is a bit long, but you can skip the first 6:53 for the fishing launch and landing, or all the way to 7:53 for the surf landing survival part.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XTpS7qZUMQ

...and you did not even loose your hat

I have a friend that swears by the reverse slide. I myself try to stay away from it. Serious skills there Greg.

[dpricenator]

Bravo staying upright on that last wave. I've been playing in the surf my whole life, whether on a body board, surf board, SUP, Kayak, or just body surfing. Also lots of surf entry while diving. Anything from the Wedge in New Port, or 10th st in Laguna to San O, and Doheney. The only suggestion I could offer you is to get more speed before the wave gets there. You'll need to start a ways back from the place where you will catch it. The more speed you have the easier it is to keep your yak in front of the wave. One of the reasons you are turning sideways is that the rear end is getting lifted, and then the buoyancy of the front end is fighting that. So even a little angle will cause your yak to turn like that. Extra speed will help you move with the wave earlier, and help keep the rear of the boat lower on the wave. This will let you use your paddle to stay straight, because your body will be in front of the white wash. Also leaning back in the yak to put more weight on the rear end will help. Though that's tougher with the stiff seat backs we have.

Of course practicing what to do when you get turned sideways, is always a plus, because no matter how good you are at riding waves, you will eventually get in a bad spot. And with all the gear we have on our rigs, we need to know how to get out of a bad spot, with out having to replace our gear.

I would love to come out to San O with you one day and play in the surf. Maybe I can learn how to fish while I am there.

[TheBentRod]

I always question my timing if a surfer is riding a wave in front of me on my way out. When that happens it usually is followed by an audible or silent “Oh S**T!”. Lol!

Those were excellent waves to play in. Good work!

[Iceman]

That was fun to watch, I think I remember something about bracing to far back or was it forward puts you into the reverse slide ...........good for added points scored.

[GregAndrew]

Andy,
I am going to go with a slow takeoff, and trying to go against the break direction for causing the reverse slide. You certainly will want to lean your brace forward when you get into the reverse slide though (to avoid the reverse pearl).

DPrice,
I know, all too well, the benefit of speed for catching a wave (and even for sliding for that matter). But as I mentioned, I was out there between the rideable surf to either side of me. My intention was just to put myself into different situations to see what I could manage.

[stevie951]

Crazy how those first sets in the zone are so small, then once you paddle out, the real ones are setting.. Kind of reminds me of Cast Away with Tom hanks, and other videos of launches in Hawaiian surf.. Legend

[equyst]

Loving this thread!