Bilge pump set-up for a Kayak

[Pinhead]

Big thanks to the author of the *Are you Prepared* thread! Glad you and your son are A-Ok!!!

I want to add bilge pumps to both my Hobie PA 14 and Malibu X-Factor 14 kayak ASAP, as I only have manual hand pumps now.....quite lame.

I just did a bit of searching on bilge pumps and have more questions. Hoping someone give out some advice or maybe a link to a thread, article or a .pdf on accomplishing this ?...here's a few of my questions;

1. What is a solid make & model & GPH to use ?
2. Best to have a pump with an auto or manual switch ?
3. Thinking two pumps per kayak ?
4. How is the pump affixed to the kayak floor ?
5. Is there a standard fitting to use to position the exit hose ?

I'm not a seasoned kayak fishing guy, thus all the newby questions. Hoping this thread helps others be more prepared as well, in case the worst ever happens.

Thank you

[jorluivil]

Why is a manual bilge pump lame?

[YakDout]

Originally Posted by jorluivil

Why is a manual bilge pump lame?

Agree, the electrical ones are much more likely to fail. You are better off making sure all your hatches seal well and that there are no holes on your kayak every couple trips. Obviously still bring the mechanical pump.


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[alanw]

Auto bilge is a good idea, just function check it before each trip and still bring a manual pump incase the auto fails. The problem is if it does fail when needed, by time you realize there's a problem it may be too late.

A simple high water alarm at the bottom of your hull would alert you to a situation long before it becomes an emergency and give you time to correct the problem. I think I'd prefer that instead of the auto bilge and associated wiring and tubing in my hull.

[Starsky]

I think I read in that story that the electric bilge pump failed to work when he needed it most. Nothing wrong with a manual pump and making sure all hatches are properly closed.

[Baja_Traveler]

In a PA 12 or 14 it's totally simple - put in a Whale manual pump. You can literally pump out the entire volume of the hull in nothing flat with one of these. Mine doubles as my bait tank pump - I just give it a few pumps every few minutes and the bait stays happy.

[tamddo714]

Am I the only who frequently opens their hatch to check if I'm taking on any water because of paranoia?


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[Brubo]

Baja I like the idea of bait tank/Bilge combo. Do you install a valve to switch it from bilge to bait. Want to use your idea.

[maquinapescado]

Manual..........

[easyday]

Here's my .02 for what it's worth. I believe you are wayyyyyy overthinking it. We already clutter up what is supposed to be the simple with bait tanks and electronics. Why add more? If you're really that worried about your hull taking on water stuff a bunch of pool noodles on the inside to displace water and ensure your kayak is "unsinkable".

[jruiz]

Frank had an auto bilge, manual bilge, and pool noodles in his hull.

[wiredantz]

Originally Posted by easyday

Here's my .02 for what it's worth. I believe you are wayyyyyy overthinking it. We already clutter up what is supposed to be the simple with bait tanks and electronics. Why add more? If you're really that worried about your hull taking on water stuff a bunch of pool noodles on the inside to displace water and ensure your kayak is "unsinkable".

You are right, many kayakers for years have said that simple is better and that it what works for them.

It does not work me. You never know when a scupper will go out, a puncture will happen, complacency or overconfidence kick in, or a jerk might run run over you and not see u.

Attention do detail, when your on the water will be your friend.

I like the idea of a high water alarm, but the last thing you want to worry about in rough water is opening your hatch to bail water.

I think I might go with a bilge pump with a float switch on the PA 17, would like to know how Baja has his whale pump connected


Took the pa17 out yesterday in rough water to see how she preforms.
I need to solve the front hatch problem first, had to empty 2 white tubs of water while going 6mph over the big blue ocean.

[Baja_Traveler]

Originally Posted by Brubo

Baja I like the idea of bait tank/Bilge combo. Do you install a valve to switch it from bilge to bait. Want to use your idea.

So, after that picture was taken, I put in a thru-hull with a check valve. Below deck I have a pickup hose that runs to the lowest part of the hull. Above deck right now is just a second hose - I have to pull the bait tank pickup and insert the hull pickup. Since this post inspired me, I'll be putting in a quick changeover ball valve system. Here is a 3-way valve I just ordered to fit to the bulkhead fitting, should work pretty nicely...

3 Way Ball Valve

[PapaDave]

If you want to counter the water-in-hull problems, why not go to WalMart, or Lowes, or Home Depot and get a couple of cans of the spray foam? Fill in the non-accessible areas with the foam and there is no place for the water to fill up.

[wiredantz]

Originally Posted by PapaDave

If you want to counter the water-in-hull problems, why not go to WalMart, or Lowes, or Home Depot and get a couple of cans of the spray foam? Fill in the non-accessible areas with the foam and there is no place for the water to fill up.

I was researching this awhile ago, i know the Boston Whalers have foam and are pretty much unsinkable. I read that once you have a leak, the foam makes the boat incredibly heavy due to the water.

This is why i have not done it. I am not sure if i want to be hauling a kayak with drenched foam.

I am pretty ignorant regarding this whole foam in the hull thing.

[addicted2sp33d]

Originally Posted by tamddo714

Am I the only who frequently opens their hatch to check if I'm taking on any water because of paranoia?

I wouldn't call it paranoia, just a normal/regular safety check. I check mine about once an hour... or anytime I open my hatch to get something.

Hatch is open already, might as well check for water where it's not supposed-to-be... it only takes a few seconds to do a quick visual inspection.

[Baja_Traveler]

Originally Posted by wiredantz

I was researching this awhile ago, i know the Boston Whalers have foam and are pretty much unsinkable. I read that once you have a leak, the foam makes the boat incredibly heavy due to the water.

This is why i have not done it. I am not sure if i want to be hauling a kayak with drenched foam.

I am pretty ignorant regarding this whole foam in the hull thing.

When I was in the Coast Guard we had an old Boston Whaler wash up on Ballast Point one year after a storm. No CF numbers so they could not trace it. The base used it for a tender to paint the 82 footers for years. When the 82's were finally sent to the scrap heap the base commander looked to get rid of the whaler all beat up and cracked, and I volunteered to take it. I rebuilt it to new condition, but it took routing the chines and keel front to back down to the foam, and it sat draining and drying out for over a year.

Yea, I think the pool noodles are a much better idea, as it is not permanent.

[FullFlavorPike]

Originally Posted by wiredantz

I read that once you have a leak, the foam makes the boat incredibly heavy due to the water.

This is why i have not done it. I am not sure if i want to be hauling a kayak with drenched foam.

If you use a closed-cell foam, the foam itself will not take on water. You can get pourable closed cell foams that could be used to custom fill your kayak hull, rendering it effectively unsinkable.

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...es/x30foam.php would do the job nicely. Enjoy your chemical burns

the hull truth is probably a better resource than BWE for extensive discussions on the merits of various foams.

[wiredantz]

I really need to re-think this whole bilge pump placement idea.


You need to have a switch to power the pump close enough to you. If you are flooded and you move your body weight forward or back, you're also moving all that water in your hull. (say hello to the titanic again)

You also need to make sure that your electrical connections are watertight. The last thing you want to do, is turn on your pump and your battery is under water and you connectors have fallen off due to the electrical corrosion of the salt water. Those two way trailer connectors will FAIL.

And if you do pool noodles you want to make sure you are floating enough to make sure the manual bilge pump is effective.

The whale pump does seem ideal, if you can pump, rudder steer, and pedal all at the same time. Alot to think about when the worst does happen. I am tired even thinking about doing that...

Right now, i am thinking about an automatic bilge pump connected straight to a battery with a one way valve, but the battery would have to be above the water line. (I am still planning it) (maybe strapping the battery right under the hobie lid will work, since the bilge pump should technically pump the water before it gets to the lid) Everyone on this site has their opinions, but i want to know which ideas have worked during the worst case scenario, not the what if scenario...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...A2K3VWEYUL0T6U

[makobob]

A scared man with a can or bucket can move more water faster then most pumps. Very simple, find bucket which enters and exits hatch easily, then keep it handy for emergencies.