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12-19-2011, 12:52 PM | #1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 6,856
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Hobie Bait Tank Switch
My switch went out a few weeks go and I've been running it straight and it works well but I do like the on/off switch. I don't like to let my battery run until its dead and it can sometimes be a pain to reach into the cover and disconnect the battery while I'm on the water.
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12-19-2011, 12:54 PM | #2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: San Pedro
Posts: 999
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George,
I have had good luck with this one so far: http://www.kayakfishingsupplies.com/...-Switch/Detail
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12-19-2011, 12:55 PM | #3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Encinitas
Posts: 395
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Mine seems to slowly be dying as well. Is the replacement difficult?
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12-19-2011, 01:19 PM | #4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: newbury park ca
Posts: 2,323
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I put 2 of the pull switches in mine both failed both the original part #
put the switch in from OEX been ok so far, the new part is a toggle type with rubber cap for insulation...you just have to hog out the hole a bit, no drill required I just used a good sharp drill bit...so far so good... |
12-19-2011, 04:08 PM | #5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Alhambra
Posts: 506
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my experience with Cole Hersee Toggle Switch
hey guys i did this awhile back around april of this year using this toggle switch. it really did not last that long. i was pretty disappointed about it since i had paid almost $30 for it and it didn't even last a whole season. it turned out where the rubber meets the threaded part of the switch, it allowed for salt water to seep into it. this caused the switch to fail. i took it off and proceeded to just wire it straight since i was going fishing the next morning. like jorge, i like to be able to turn on and off the tank, so instead of using this type of switch, i went ahead and purchased another toggle switch without the vulcanization rubber. it only cost me $6. i then used liquid electrical tape and coated it with with thick application of this stuff and let it dry each time, (did it 2x) i gave it at least one day to cure each time. then used some marine goop and coated the area around the dried electrical tape and the threaded area of the switch before mounting it to the tank. i am hoping that by doing this it will eliminate the salt water from seeping in. also one last thing, after installing the switch i reused the rubber cover from the last toggle that i had purchased and also coated the base where the tank meets the rubber cover with marine goop. i figure with the switch costing me only $6 it is worth trying. i'll give a report in a few months to let everyone know how this turns out. |
12-19-2011, 04:57 PM | #6 |
Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: la jolla shores
Posts: 86
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those "waterproof" switches at west marine (cole hersee) with the rubber coating suck and are expensive. i use a sand sealed toggle switch bought at off road warehouse. check your local off-road parts store, i think i paid like 7 or 8 bucks.
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12-19-2011, 05:36 PM | #7 | |
Administrator
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: 1-2 miles off the point
Posts: 6,948
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Quote:
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12-19-2011, 05:39 PM | #8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Richland Oregon
Posts: 1,547
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And goop the backside of the switch, Keeps the water from getting into the sealed switch.
I know for a fact that the switches at ORW and those places are not as good as a Marine Grade switch. Why do you think I got everything for my soon to be race-legal Tacoma from West Marine? Dont want a cheap switch going out when I really need it./ Especially on engine fans or the fuel pumps..... |
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