Another Hobie drive well Crack - Kayak Fishing Adventures on Big Water’s Edge

lbsurf2ca · 07-26-2011, 08:05 AM

I have an older outback which has a cracked drive well area. All research has pointed to call your local dealer to check warranty.

Called OEX they were very helpful in getting the info over to hobie. Even though my Yak was 5 years out of warranty they did offer a new hull for prorated rate of $750. Unfortunately thats just way out of budget right now.

Anyone have any good ideas for repair? I tried some marine grade epoxy solution which worked for about 2 hours on the water then started leaking again.

dorado50 · 07-26-2011, 08:37 AM

stress fractures, can't be fixed!

JOSER85 · 07-26-2011, 09:24 AM

I guess going to School to work on airplanes is finally going to pay off

Now this method is actually used to temporarily fix acrylic windows on fixed wing aircraft's.

Now try this!
Take a small drill bit (8/32" or so) and drill the ends of the cracks. Make sure you use a strong light under your kayak so you can see were exactly the crack ends. It wont hurt if you go bigger on the hole. This will stop the crack from spreading more through your yak.
Now start drilling hole's about 1/2'' away from the crack on both sides. Use wire/fishing wire and start threading as if you were sewing. Don't go to light on the wire or it will start to cut through the plastic. Also when your threading it make sure it's slightly tight but not to tight.
This will help the crack from not opening under pressure. That's why the epoxy only worked from a few hours.
And that's pretty much it on that. Now you want to use your epoxy and cover the hole's and the sewing you did.
Make sure before you start this whole process to prep the surfs in which you will be working on.

I added this photo so you get a better under standing.

Lets_Fish · 07-26-2011, 12:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JOSER85

Now try this!
Take a small drill bit (8/32" or so) and drill the ends of the cracks.

1/4" hole?

Phatford · 07-26-2011, 12:35 PM

The Stop drill at the end of the crack isn't super critical on the size, more important is that you drill Right through the end of the crack, you don't want to give the crack an easy place to start again. I am also an Aircraft Mechanic. You might be suprised how many helicopters are flying now with my Stop drill patches... ha ha

Does Hobie want the Kayak back? Maybe you can fix it... Sell it with full disclosure, and buy a new boat?

JOSER85 · 07-26-2011, 12:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Phatford

The Stop drill at the end of the crack isn't super critical on the size, more important is that you drill Right through the end of the crack, you don't want to give the crack an easy place to start again. I am also an Aircraft Mechanic. You might be suprised how many helicopters are flying now with my Stop drill patches... ha ha

Does Hobie want the Kayak back? Maybe you can fix it... Sell it with full disclosure, and buy a new boat?

Not only your Helicopters!

bus kid · 07-26-2011, 01:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Phatford

The Stop drill at the end of the crack isn't super critical on the size, more important is that you drill Right through the end of the crack, you don't want to give the crack an easy place to start again. I am also an Aircraft Mechanic. You might be suprised how many helicopters are flying now with my Stop drill patches... ha ha

SO YOUR THAT GUY.

I work as a quality inspector / FAA repair station Rep.I keep seeing Holes drilled on thrust reverser flaps.

Phatford · 07-26-2011, 01:32 PM

Only Thrust Reversers I worked on were GulfStreams... and only G IV and G V at that.

bus kid · 07-26-2011, 01:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Phatford

Only Thrust Reversers I worked on were GulfStreams... and only G IV and G V at that.

Those would be the green ones,Although by the time you see them they are brown and black.

pchen911 · 07-26-2011, 02:02 PM

Just trying to learn more about patching up kayaks, so please excuse my stupid questions.

How can you tell if this is a stress fracture? And how is it different than any other types of crack?

And why is it that you can't just smear some marine goop on it to stop the leak?

Phatford · 07-26-2011, 02:08 PM

The Stress that caused the crack, is going to keep putting stress on the area... So you are only doing a very temporary fix in all reality. But should last you till you can save for that new hull...

Imagine you hit your kayak when it was cold with a hammer and it cracked... One time event maybe it would be in an area that doesn't see much moving around.... You wouldn't be worried about stress on that crack.

bus kid · 07-26-2011, 02:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pchen911

Just trying to learn more about patching up kayaks, so please excuse my stupid questions.

How can you tell if this is a stress fracture? And how is it different than any other types of crack?

And why is it that you can't just smear some marine goop on it to stop the leak?

Think of a plastic spoon. If you bend the handle back and forth over and over again it will crack. hence a stress crack. Goop while plyable does not have the tensile strength to stand up to the stress of a flexing hull.You need to effectively stop the crack, as Phatford mentioned by drilling at the end of it then filling it with something that can withstand the regors of kayaking, Like loc tite 404.

pchen911 · 07-26-2011, 02:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Phatford

The Stress that caused the crack, is going to keep putting stress on the area...

I see. Thank you for the explaination.

So the repair for a stress crack needs to end up even stronger than the original plastic right?

Is it safe to assume that there is no way Marine Goop or 3M 5200 can be applied in a way that it is as strong or stronger than the original plastic?

Matar · 07-26-2011, 02:51 PM

This might work for you. Get a roll of fiberglass about 3" wide and wrap the whole tunel put on the resin and make sure it is a tight wrap, then after all is dry use 5200 over the crack to try and seal it. Just might work and it will reinforce the whole area around the drive unit.

Just my two cents.

maui jim · 07-26-2011, 04:12 PM

Run the kayak thru a shredder and send it back to Hobie and have them melt it down, and put it back in the Roto Mold....

Problem solved.....

dorado50 · 07-26-2011, 04:17 PM

Let me clarify my above statement, a stress fracture can not be fixed ! No matter how many bolts and glues you use, plastic is not metal......

.

Hypoxic1 · 07-26-2011, 05:11 PM

Those pedal brackets take a huge load and will continue to open even if you goop it, 5200 it, or whatever , it. You cannot effectively melt it back in shape A local kayak store "fixed" a stress crack in an old hobie of mine, and then loaned the boat to an old guy I was fishing with. His ass sank not too far off scripps pier thank god. We recovered him and the boat but it aint a good place to be.

You really dont want to discover a much bigger problem when you are out on the water and find you are loading up on water. Ive done it, and its a really bad spot to be in.

Good luck.
Chris

Lets_Fish · 07-26-2011, 06:17 PM

I'm thinking that if you drill any holes adjacent to that stress crack you will void the manufacture's warranty, so think about it before you do it. Also the $750 for a new hull in place of you 5+ year old hull is cheap.

lbsurf2ca · 07-26-2011, 06:18 PM

Thanks for the ideas. Here is the outside view of the hull which has the crack.

Its a pretty tight area to work with. Looks like I'll have to save some cash. In the mean time duct tape on the area seems to slow things down a lot.

My pump will remain at my side at all times.

Matar · 07-26-2011, 07:51 PM

Fill the inside with foam and go fishin. Just do it slowly.

07-26-2011, 04:12 PM	#15
maui jim Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Cypress, CA Posts: 789	Run the kayak thru a shredder and send it back to Hobie and have them melt it down, and put it back in the Roto Mold.... Problem solved..... __________________

07-26-2011, 05:11 PM	#17
Hypoxic1 Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Oceanside Posts: 215	Its not gonna work, be safe Those pedal brackets take a huge load and will continue to open even if you goop it, 5200 it, or whatever , it. You cannot effectively melt it back in shape A local kayak store "fixed" a stress crack in an old hobie of mine, and then loaned the boat to an old guy I was fishing with. His ass sank not too far off scripps pier thank god. We recovered him and the boat but it aint a good place to be. You really dont want to discover a much bigger problem when you are out on the water and find you are loading up on water. Ive done it, and its a really bad spot to be in. Good luck. Chris

07-26-2011, 06:17 PM	#18
Lets_Fish Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Wildomar, CA. Posts: 294	Void warranty? I'm thinking that if you drill any holes adjacent to that stress crack you will void the manufacture's warranty, so think about it before you do it. Also the $750 for a new hull in place of you 5+ year old hull is cheap.

07-26-2011, 08:37 AM	#2
dorado50 Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: La Jolla Shores Posts: 1,626	stress fractures, can't be fixed!

07-26-2011, 09:24 AM	#3
JOSER85 Member Join Date: Feb 2011 Posts: 85	I guess going to School to work on airplanes is finally going to pay off Now this method is actually used to temporarily fix acrylic windows on fixed wing aircraft's. Now try this! Take a small drill bit (8/32" or so) and drill the ends of the cracks. Make sure you use a strong light under your kayak so you can see were exactly the crack ends. It wont hurt if you go bigger on the hole. This will stop the crack from spreading more through your yak. Now start drilling hole's about 1/2'' away from the crack on both sides. Use wire/fishing wire and start threading as if you were sewing. Don't go to light on the wire or it will start to cut through the plastic. Also when your threading it make sure it's slightly tight but not to tight. This will help the crack from not opening under pressure. That's why the epoxy only worked from a few hours. And that's pretty much it on that. Now you want to use your epoxy and cover the hole's and the sewing you did. Make sure before you start this whole process to prep the surfs in which you will be working on. I added this photo so you get a better under standing.

07-26-2011, 12:35 PM	#5
Phatford Heroes on the Water Staff Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Anahiem Posts: 176	The Stop drill at the end of the crack isn't super critical on the size, more important is that you drill Right through the end of the crack, you don't want to give the crack an easy place to start again. I am also an Aircraft Mechanic. You might be suprised how many helicopters are flying now with my Stop drill patches... ha ha Does Hobie want the Kayak back? Maybe you can fix it... Sell it with full disclosure, and buy a new boat?

07-26-2011, 01:32 PM	#8
Phatford Heroes on the Water Staff Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Anahiem Posts: 176	Only Thrust Reversers I worked on were GulfStreams... and only G IV and G V at that.

07-26-2011, 02:02 PM	#10
pchen911 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Posts: 218	Just trying to learn more about patching up kayaks, so please excuse my stupid questions. How can you tell if this is a stress fracture? And how is it different than any other types of crack? And why is it that you can't just smear some marine goop on it to stop the leak?

07-26-2011, 02:08 PM	#11
Phatford Heroes on the Water Staff Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Anahiem Posts: 176	The Stress that caused the crack, is going to keep putting stress on the area... So you are only doing a very temporary fix in all reality. But should last you till you can save for that new hull... Imagine you hit your kayak when it was cold with a hammer and it cracked... One time event maybe it would be in an area that doesn't see much moving around.... You wouldn't be worried about stress on that crack.

07-26-2011, 02:51 PM	#14
Matar I am just me. Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Lake Forest Posts: 135	This might work for you. Get a roll of fiberglass about 3" wide and wrap the whole tunel put on the resin and make sure it is a tight wrap, then after all is dry use 5200 over the crack to try and seal it. Just might work and it will reinforce the whole area around the drive unit. Just my two cents.

07-26-2011, 04:17 PM	#16
dorado50 Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: La Jolla Shores Posts: 1,626	Let me clarify my above statement, a stress fracture can not be fixed ! No matter how many bolts and glues you use, plastic is not metal...... .

07-26-2011, 07:51 PM	#20
Matar I am just me. Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Lake Forest Posts: 135	Fill the inside with foam and go fishin. Just do it slowly.