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#21 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Corona, CA
Posts: 472
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Quote:
I'll definitely go to a through hull like this if my new wet well fails. Question for you: I see it's been discussed many times; some feel you lose very little if any quality using a shoot through mount vs. a through mount. Why is this issue so subjective? Haven't any of the manufactures ran legit tests? |
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#22 | |
.......
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,509
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Quote:
I must of posted this here a dozen times about now... Transducers work with sound. They send it out and they receive it back in the form of an echo and from that sound received back (that they created in the first place) they then create a data set that they can display on the screen as a representation of what is in the water. Transducers are calibrated for their use and 99% of them are designed to be put into the water directly. If you use them in any manner they are not designed to be used it throws the calibration off and your data set is not as accurate as a result. Inaccurate data means a faulty representation on the screen of what is there. More simply... put it in the water it sends and receives what it's supposed to, and can draw you an accurate picture. Beam it through the hull and you get a muffled version that is distorted and the amount of information that finder can use to create an image on the screen is diminished. You essentually end up with less data, so you get less information on the screen. It's just like hearing. Can you put your ear against a thin wall in a cheap motel and hear what is going on in the room on the other side...yeah sure you can hear something to an extent, but you can't here whats going on as clearly as if you were in the room. With a transducer it's worse then just trying to hear something that is on the other side of a wall because it has to send the sound through the hull (wall) then receive it back through the hull (wall) as well so it get's a distortion and reduction twice not once, both on sending and receiving. So it's like yelling at the wall and trying to hear your echo coming back through it. Essentially what you are doing when you beam through the hull is that you are turning the hull into both a speaker and a microphone. The sound is created by the transducer, it then passes through your medium: water, grease, glue etc.. to the hull. The hull then vibrates in response sending a distorted and diminished version of the transducers sound out into the water, what sound makes it through get's reflected off objects it echos back to your hull, which then vibrates the hull to an extent, and that vibration is then passed through the medium: water, grease, glue etc. back to the transducer which then tries to create a data set based on what it get's back. You don't have to really understand the science or math involved to realize that is not even remotely close to the same thing you'd get by having the transducer send that sound directly into the water, or receive the returns directly from the water as it's made to do. Plastic hulls dampen sound, they each have their own acoustic properties, so there is essentually no way for a manufacturer to calculate all the variables involved, or calibrate the transducer accurately for them. In contrast the transducer puck is designed specifically to maximize sound output and retrieval when it in the water and it is perfectly calibrated for what it does to get the maximum results. I don't know of anyone who is making beam through the plastic kayak hull transducers, though there are beam through the hull transducers that are specifically designed to be glued into fiberglass boat hulls. They are not as good as in the water transducers, but those can at least be calibrated for that use.. The accustic properties of a glass boat hulls are more predicatable and glass composites hulls are beter a transmitting sound then plastic hulls. Here's the real deal. Kayakers came late to the sonar game. A few years ago everyone just glued their transducers in the hull and the conventional thinking was that that was the way to go. My take is the problem with conventional thinking is it never takes the individual case into account so it never get's the best results. I'm a boat guy who used run boats and install gear like sonars for money. I have installed a lot of sonars, in everything from little Furunos and Garmins in skiffs to twenty thousand dollar searchlight sonars in million dollar yachts, so I have a lot of experience with this. It's common knowledge among the boating community that transducer installation makes all the difference in what you see on the screen and that even such little things as a few bubbles crossing the transducer can degrade performance. When you've gone through a 1000 gallons of diesel half way down to Guadalupe, you want to be able to see everything you possibly can see in the water, because you have a lot invested and your out there to catch fish. When I started playing with transducers with kayaks I first tried goop, then epoxy, then a wet mount, then one designed to beam through a glass hull and honestly they all just flat out sucked. Wet mounts are best but they still suck. I know what good readings look like, and I know when a unit is not functioning up to it's potential, and I just could not get the sonars to function to there full potential with in the hull mounts. So I did what I had to. I used an old tried a true method of mounting the transducer flush with the hull using essentually a built in box of the type people used to use before threaded thru hull transducers were readily available. I cut a hole and got my transducer in the water where it belonged, and it worked just like it was supposed to work. You would of thought it was the end of the friggen world. People whined, people, bitched, people said it would leak, that I would sink my yak, that it wasn't needed, that you did not need a good sonar to catch fish from a yak anyway. It was such a controversy that the first time I met Josh on the beach the first thing he said was: "Let's see that transducer.." ![]() I said: "It's underneath on the right side." "No big deal it just works like it's supposed to." He then said: "You know you were the only guy I saw all day on the yellows" I said: "Yeah but you are the only one I saw catch one!" (I lost three that day) Since then there has been a steady change towards better and better sonar units for small boats and kayaks, and the manufactures now offer inexpensive plastic threaded thru-hull transducers for almost any finder you can buy. The guys in the know are giving up the old conventional thinking about kayaking with beam through the hull transducers, and are now either going with over the side arm mounts or through hulls where the transducers are actually in the water. The performance is superior because they are using the units as the were designed to be used. It's just that simple. Threaded through hull transducers are the standard for high end marine installations, in boats an yachts. They are easy to install, never leak or fail if installed properly, and they give you the best performance possible. I'd say it's the only way to go. What's the point of buying a $500 finder, and then screwing up it's performance by gluing a transducer in your hull. Threaded thru-hulls are cheap safe and effective. Down the line it's going to be what everyone uses except for a few holdovers that are either just too stubborn to switch, or just starting out and don't know any better. ![]() |
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#23 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 265
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Great info , Thanks !
The fishfinder company should hire you to write the instruction booklet !
Easy to understand in plain English. Cleared my long time questions. Thank you ! ![]() Danny |
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#24 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 552
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Quote:
And to think that some people complain about the "length and unnecessary content" of Jim's posts. Perhaps they simply get lost it the Complexity ![]() |
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#25 |
Junior
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 1
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just installed a threaded thru hull in my stealth 14... let me tell u .... cutting a hole that size messes with your head... and picking the right spot to put the hole was even worse... i checked and rechecked for 45 mins before i cut the hole... but now that its done its sweet... flush clean and works amazing... i will never mount a transducer any other way again...
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#26 |
Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 64
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Grease Mount Update
The grease mount performed very well. It showed stuff in 120 feet of saltwater that I've never seen before. Used SuperLube, which some one else had suggested. It appears to be about the consistency of the lube provided by Humminbird in their in-hull mounting kits. I tried eco-friendly lithium grease from West Marine, but ti was very thick and tended to get chunky.
I simply used foam to create a tight-fitting well for the transducer. Gooped it down. Coated the well bottom and transducer bottom and sides of transducer. Inserted transducer into the well, push down, jiggle. Press down with a plug of foam. I might glue velcro to the foam well to strap over and hold down the foam plug. Signal is as good as when I hang the transducer over the side of the yak. |
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