Marine glue

[Fiskadoro]

Originally Posted by steveooo

Red = Fast, Blue = Slow.






Potato, Potahtoe.

That's interesting it used to be that the faster cure was considered a different product.





I wonder if there is any difference between 4200 fast and 5200 fast?

Personally I've only used the original 5200 and the faster 4200, but I have used a lot of it in marine applications like thru-hulls for large boats.

4200 hundred dries is faster, and is sticky stuff, we used it mainly for caulking above water seams, windows, trim, etc... but the original 5200 definitely sticks better once it completely cures, and we used that mostly for below the water line applications like through hulls. Keep in mind that when you use it on big boats the boat is often only out of the water (hauled out) for a few days so even if it's not fully cured on jobs like tru-hulls it does seal in a relatively short period of time, and continues to cure even if in the water.

As to adhesion. I've ripped sections of fiberglass right off a hull trying to get things stuck with 5200 off fiberglass. Once it sticks it sticks good.

Jim

[onetriphudson]

I scrubbed the area with light grit sandpaper and then wiped it with a small amount of acetone and paper towel. The acetone was long gone before I applied a sponge with cutaway shape for transX. When I filled the cavity with the 5200 it was easy to set in the puck and push it down firm.

I'm pretty sure this is the slow cure but the back of the label says that it sets in 24 hours? It's the marine stuff for sure. The lack of airflow, colder temps and sponge border could all be factors. The weird part was that even the goo on the top edges where it squeezed up was tacky as of Sunday (4 days). Seems to me that would be the first part to harden.

I'd just advise guys to plan on leaving 5200 adhesive items alone for 4 or 5 days at least. No point in risking your hard work!

[steveooo]

Originally Posted by Jim Day

I wonder if there is any difference between 4200 fast and 5200 fast.

Jim

Tensile strength for the 3M 4200 is 300 PSI, the 5200 fast cure is 600 PSI, the 5200 slow cure is 700 PSI.

All those numbers are for adhesion under ideal conditions. On gelcoat the 5200 tensile strength is 519 PSI, and for adhesion to polyethylene that number drops down to 48 PSI.


The Marine Goop tensile strength starts around 3800 PSI under ideal conditions, and is at about 1700 PSI on some plastics. Much stronger that the 5200, but all of this is still ridiculous overkill for the sealant properties that we actualy use them for.

[bubblehide]

Originally Posted by steveooo

Tensile strength for the 3M 4200 is 300 PSI, the 5200 fast cure is 600 PSI, the 5200 slow cure is 700 PSI.

All those numbers are for adhesion under ideal conditions. On gelcoat the 5200 tensile strength is 519 PSI, and for adhesion to polyethylene that number drops down to 48 PSI.


The Marine Goop tensile strength starts around 3800 PSI under ideal conditions, and is at about 1700 PSI on some plastics. Much stronger that the 5200, but all of this is still ridiculous overkill for the sealant properties that we actualy use them for.

Steve, where are you getting those specifications from?

[steveooo]

Originally Posted by bubblehide

Steve, where are you getting those specifications from?

From the Technical Data Sheets on each manufacturers website.

I do take all the available info wth a grain of salt though. The ASTM tests they use to get the data do have standard protocol that must be followed, and the tests are usually done by independent testing labs.

However, as we have seen with the MLPA and the "science", it is easy to make statistics and data say whatever you want them to. "Lap Shear" and "180° Peel Tests" are adhesion tests that can be recreated in a labratory with consistency, but they dont really show how a product functions in the "real world". It is common for manufacturers to test only on data that will make them look superior to their competition, and not test on the data that will make your product look inferior. Both companies probably make some some disclaimers that the end-user must determine the suitability of the product for the intended application, because their are alot of factors that are variable in each circumstance.


The way i see it, if it works for you, use it. If not, use the other one. If that one doesn't work, use the next.

Now if only I had a yacht that I could test all this out on...

[bubblehide]

Thanks Steve, I have to agree. I was rather surprised to see Goop's results, as my experience over time with the product has just barely been acceptable, while I have been very impressed with 5200; not that my experience is the end-all. I know both products will work, but personally, the first I'd go to is the 5200

[Siebler]

For what its worth OEX uses 100% Goop. We do A LOT of pump kits and similar installations and never had any issues.

[Jimmyz123]

I use the goop and have not had any leaks either.