Transducer install Epoxy vs Pool Noodle - Kayak Fishing Adventures on Big Water’s Edge

emrliquidlife · 10-28-2009, 02:51 PM

So I have an Eagle Cuda 168 fish finder that I want to install in a thru hull.

Seeing an old post by Billy V about bubbles in the Goop, I know I don't want to do that.

So, my options seem to be:

Tupperware style - I don't mind the hand work of shaping a piece of tupperware to the shape of my inside hull.

Pool Noodle - Gooping a piece of noodle that snugly fits the transducer. This creates a pool for the transducer to get a water filled pool for the signal to pass thru the hull.

Epoxy - Transducer straight to the hull via epoxy. As I have read on here, this way is permanent.

Since this is an inexpensive FF, I'm looking to get maximum ability out of it.

Thanks for the input.

Ed

Holy Mackerel · 10-28-2009, 02:58 PM

goop has worked just fine for me, just a little dab, let stand 5 minutes, or so, then apply puck. I hold it down with a dive weight over night. I have not noticed a significant difference in reading between my kayak and boat. (they use the same FF/GPS)

emrliquidlife · 10-28-2009, 03:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Holy Mackerel

goop has worked just fine for me, just a little dab, let stand 5 minutes, or so, then apply puck. I hold it down with a dive weight over night. I have not noticed a significant difference in reading between my kayak and boat. (they use the same FF/GPS)

The "goop" I have is 3M Marine Adhesive 5200. Hope it doens't make a differance.

I remember seeing a thread where Billy had seen a huge differance from Goop to and epoxy.

I'm hoping to get the most out of the FF.

Ed

GregAndrew · 10-28-2009, 06:25 PM

Howdy Ed.

I have a through scupper Xducer, but I like the tupperware idea best for in-hull mounting. Should not have to worry about bubbles with it. Makes your FF much more portable too. Just make sure to use a liquid not likely to grow anything and cut the foam tight to prevent movement. Might get some interesting temp readings when you first get in though.

flydigital · 10-28-2009, 06:40 PM

I've had no problem with the marine goop install. There will always be bubbles when applying the "puddle" but if you roll the transducer front and back, side to side about 5 times while pushing in the puddle the air bubbles will move to the sides out of the way and you'll get good readings. I've done this 3 times and always great results compared via different installs including in-the-water (liberator arm and transom mount) and other shoot-through installs. I've also seen failed installs and the results. Push and roll, it works...

Rob929 · 10-28-2009, 06:55 PM

I have also done Marine Goop installs (twice) and not had any issues either time.

The second time I used some foam from a walmart camping/sleeping bag pad (about $5) and made a cut out to fit the transducer. I glued this down first and at that point there's the option to fill the cut out with vaseline and press fit the transducer for a temporary install, or fill the cut out with marine goop, roll the transducer and press in well (as mentioned) to remove bubbles, and you should be good to go. I chose to do use the goop again.

Not sure about the 3M glue. I'm assuming it's clear? I have used 3m 5200 for boat repair in the past, it was black, and very strong. I cannot recall how hard it cured, but I do know the Marine Goop dries somewhat rubbery and flexible- good if any future changes or a redo is neccesary.

steveooo · 10-28-2009, 07:33 PM

1 more vote for marine goop. 5 installs, never had a problem.

Grego · 10-28-2009, 07:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by emrliquidlife

The "goop" I have is 3M Marine Adhesive 5200. Hope it doens't make a differance.

I remember seeing a thread where Billy had seen a huge differance from Goop to and epoxy.

I'm hoping to get the most out of the FF.

Ed

You're not suppose to use 5200, from what I hear....that is NOT goop. Marine Goop is "Marine Goop" that is the official name and brand.

5200 is supposedly harder to get air bubbles out, but then again people have used is successfully too. Also, I remember seeing a post about the chemical properties of 5200 that isn't good, whatevers.

I've used both goop and epoxy (current) and don't see no difference and no problems with either. Haven't tried 5200.

Billy V · 10-28-2009, 09:58 PM

Marine Goop will work if you flow it careful without bubbles. You only need a small amount.

I'm using a 2 ton clear epoxy from devcon. It dries in 8 hours, but I let it cure for 24 hours. It is not permanent, I have removed a transducer that was epoxied in my last yak.

Both give a good picture if properly prepped.

peguinpower · 10-29-2009, 08:13 AM

soaking the adhesive container in a tub of hot water helps a lot with the losing air bubbles. just make sure to dam the area as goop will flow more when it is hot.

dont use 5200. you are asking for trouble there.

/bing

yakrider · 10-29-2009, 11:25 AM

My Tx install record:
Marine Goop = 6 successfull installs
5200 = 1 not so successfull install (got no readings) do not use!
Pool noodle wet well = 1 successful install (my current set up) Love it!

for depths up to 150' goop is fine...
if you want to see the hard bottom at 240', go with the wet well...

T-Rex · 10-29-2009, 04:20 PM

I've had better luck with the pool noodle wet well. No issues with bubbles and you can remove the transducer easily.

10-28-2009, 02:51 PM	#1
emrliquidlife Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Posts: 59	Transducer install Epoxy vs Pool Noodle So I have an Eagle Cuda 168 fish finder that I want to install in a thru hull. Seeing an old post by Billy V about bubbles in the Goop, I know I don't want to do that. So, my options seem to be: Tupperware style - I don't mind the hand work of shaping a piece of tupperware to the shape of my inside hull. Pool Noodle - Gooping a piece of noodle that snugly fits the transducer. This creates a pool for the transducer to get a water filled pool for the signal to pass thru the hull. Epoxy - Transducer straight to the hull via epoxy. As I have read on here, this way is permanent. Since this is an inexpensive FF, I'm looking to get maximum ability out of it. Thanks for the input. Ed __________________ - MLPA Soldier awaiting further instructions -

10-29-2009, 04:20 PM	#12
T-Rex Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Rancho Santa Margarita Posts: 770	I've had better luck with the pool noodle wet well. No issues with bubbles and you can remove the transducer easily. __________________

10-28-2009, 02:58 PM	#2
Holy Mackerel Señor member Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: San Diego, CA Posts: 1,627	goop has worked just fine for me, just a little dab, let stand 5 minutes, or so, then apply puck. I hold it down with a dive weight over night. I have not noticed a significant difference in reading between my kayak and boat. (they use the same FF/GPS)

10-28-2009, 06:25 PM	#4
GregAndrew Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Posts: 2,384	Howdy Ed. I have a through scupper Xducer, but I like the tupperware idea best for in-hull mounting. Should not have to worry about bubbles with it. Makes your FF much more portable too. Just make sure to use a liquid not likely to grow anything and cut the foam tight to prevent movement. Might get some interesting temp readings when you first get in though.

10-28-2009, 06:40 PM	#5
flydigital Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2009 Posts: 192	I've had no problem with the marine goop install. There will always be bubbles when applying the "puddle" but if you roll the transducer front and back, side to side about 5 times while pushing in the puddle the air bubbles will move to the sides out of the way and you'll get good readings. I've done this 3 times and always great results compared via different installs including in-the-water (liberator arm and transom mount) and other shoot-through installs. I've also seen failed installs and the results. Push and roll, it works...

10-28-2009, 06:55 PM	#6
Rob929 Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: San Diego Posts: 134	I have also done Marine Goop installs (twice) and not had any issues either time. The second time I used some foam from a walmart camping/sleeping bag pad (about $5) and made a cut out to fit the transducer. I glued this down first and at that point there's the option to fill the cut out with vaseline and press fit the transducer for a temporary install, or fill the cut out with marine goop, roll the transducer and press in well (as mentioned) to remove bubbles, and you should be good to go. I chose to do use the goop again. Not sure about the 3M glue. I'm assuming it's clear? I have used 3m 5200 for boat repair in the past, it was black, and very strong. I cannot recall how hard it cured, but I do know the Marine Goop dries somewhat rubbery and flexible- good if any future changes or a redo is neccesary.

10-28-2009, 07:33 PM	#7
steveooo Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2005 Posts: 1,921	1 more vote for marine goop. 5 installs, never had a problem.

10-28-2009, 09:58 PM	#9
Billy V Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Bay Ho Posts: 1,382	Marine Goop will work if you flow it careful without bubbles. You only need a small amount. I'm using a 2 ton clear epoxy from devcon. It dries in 8 hours, but I let it cure for 24 hours. It is not permanent, I have removed a transducer that was epoxied in my last yak. Both give a good picture if properly prepped.

10-29-2009, 08:13 AM	#10
peguinpower bing! Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: socal Posts: 246	soaking the adhesive container in a tub of hot water helps a lot with the losing air bubbles. just make sure to dam the area as goop will flow more when it is hot. dont use 5200. you are asking for trouble there. /bing

10-29-2009, 11:25 AM	#11
yakrider Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Posts: 611	My Tx install record: Marine Goop = 6 successfull installs 5200 = 1 not so successfull install (got no readings) do not use! Pool noodle wet well = 1 successful install (my current set up) Love it! for depths up to 150' goop is fine... if you want to see the hard bottom at 240', go with the wet well...