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#1 |
Currently @ MLO Territory
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Under the Shadow
Posts: 2,290
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mine always gives me a hard time, and i hate sucking water via a tube.
So i have a cup and fill the bait tank up to the output of the bait tank. then the water finally starts coming in with forward momentum.
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 332
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3/4" check valve solution
Instead of siphoning a tube or all that work priming, get a 3/4" check valve with no spring. When you install it, just make sure the hinge of the flapper is pointing up, then your bait tank won't drain if you turn off the pump.
About $10 and be worry free... http://www.redflagproducts.com/pvc-f...-x-socket.html |
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 2,526
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Prime
The pump is threaded and you can get an adapter from Home Depot to attach a blue flexible hose sold in different lengths . Double female adapter, blue flex hose which has double male ends, and you can even buy cap to make tank water tight. This will help for priming as suggested in above posts. I can post pics of all parts if needed? Set tank on 5 gallon bucket filled with water and prime with hose. If flow is slow I would check your battery voltage . Is the connector on battery original ? If not, make sure pump is not wired backward which would run pump in reverse direction . And last but not least , with tank installed on kayak inspect the tube length how much is protruding from bottom of kayak.
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#4 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Murrieta, CA and Bonney Lake, WA
Posts: 425
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Quote:
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 2,526
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Well?
Between all of us we touched every subject. Looks like a lot of experience here. Let us know what you came up with? And last resort Andy could sell you a new tank.
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#6 |
Manic for Life
Join Date: May 2015
Location: San Diego
Posts: 839
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- Is the scoop of your intake tube facing forward?
- Once I inadvertently crimped my intake tube by shifting the position of the tank when I synched it down. - I typically inspected the bottom of my tank and removed any visible seaweed blocking the impeller after each outing. I thought this was enough. My pump was getting slow so I disassembled the pump to discover lots of other debris on the inside that was not particularly visible without taking the pump apart. Taking the pump out of the tank and twisting it apart for a thorough cleaning made a significant difference. The cheesy plastic nut that holds the pump into the Hobie tank strips easily so don't overtighten. Replacement nuts are available for a $$$ price, of course. Hobie does an excellent job making things just perfectly weak enough so that when it breaks it's our fault, not theirs. - Your pump speed depends on battery voltage. Check to see if you are getting a full charge. Bait tank pump speed is based on 6v rather than a 12v battery we use for our FF and/or other things. These batteries can crap out pretty easily with non-use, overcharging, etc. They are semi-consumable so we are encouraged to replace them as "normal maintenance" ... not particularly designed to be commercial quality or long lasting. - Lastly, make sure your drain plug on the side is in place so the water gets up to the top of the overflow tube. That's all I can think of for now. It's a pretty simple system. Learning to take my pump apart after every trip is what made the difference for me. Yes, it's not a strong pump. To flow freely, it must be clean. Any small threads of sea grass wrapped around the axle can slow it down.
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Another ho-hum day in Paradise Last edited by Mr. NiceGuy; 06-01-2017 at 06:58 PM. |
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#7 |
TB Metal Art
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: San Diego
Posts: 653
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I don't think I saw this on on there? Also put some window screen over the intake to prevent eel grass from getting into the pump
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