Faulty J-bolts on Yakima rack? - Kayak Fishing Adventures on Big Water’s Edge

spudz · 10-08-2015, 03:11 PM

MrJB, Not sure where the original J-bolts were made. However, new J-bolts came in a bag/kit stamped made in China.

spudz · 10-08-2015, 03:16 PM

MrJB & YakDout, I’ll keep the replacement J-bolts on for now and check every few months for any disfiguring. If these replacements falter, then I’ll take your advice and make a trip to a machine shop/cut down some trailer U-bolts. Would hate to lose the rack/kayak while driving down the PCH!

spudz · 10-08-2015, 03:20 PM

Makobob, back plate under truck bed rail and through bolt through the back plate and rail plate section of tower?

jruiz · 10-08-2015, 03:36 PM

Have had mine on two different trucks for two years now. Didn't notice any problems when I switched them over to a different truck last May.

alanw · 10-08-2015, 06:05 PM

Assuming the bolts didn't come that shape originally...

If the bolts were loose, then they bent during use. Cheap bolts.

If the bolts were still tight, they were over torqued during original installation.

My .02

makobob · 10-08-2015, 06:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spudz

Makobob, back plate under truck bed rail and through bolt through the back plate and rail plate section of tower?

YES, it does put holes in truck but it would be bullet proof.

pbb · 10-09-2015, 06:15 PM

I suspect your piece of aluminum is the culprit, possibly combined with over tightening.

Think about the way they have bent. That suggests that the load is all getting applied to the end of the J and there is torque pushing down and out. Whereas without the aluminum block the load would be at the bottom of the J and not pushing out so much.

Mahigeer · 10-09-2015, 09:47 PM

It looks to me that it is caused by having a load (kayaks) at the end of a lever (the uprights) putting sideways pressure on the J bolt/s.

As the kayaks on the top move from center to left and right on the top (looking at the road from driver's seat), they exert load on the j bolts through the up rights. Which are now a lever. One end the j bolts, the other the kayaks.

I think the only thing to do since the level distance cannot be changed; is either to lighten the load, use a thicker diameter j bolts, or jay bolts made from a stronger material.

Some modification may have to be done to accommodate the thicker diameter j bolts.

Good luck.

jruiz · 10-10-2015, 05:44 AM

If you look at the area circled in the picture, there seems to be a wormhole or rip in the space-time continuum. Or your cross bar is bent.

10-08-2015, 06:05 PM	#5
alanw Made in U.S.A. Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Dana Point Posts: 1,625	Assuming the bolts didn't come that shape originally... If the bolts were loose, then they bent during use. Cheap bolts. If the bolts were still tight, they were over torqued during original installation. My .02 __________________ Hobie PA 14 ¸.·´¯`·.´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><(((º> Jackson Kraken ¸.·´¯`·.¸.·´¯`·.´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><(((º> Malibu X-Factor ¸.·´¯`·.´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><(((º> Malibu Stealth-12 ¸.·´¯`·.´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><(((º> Its not a spelling B its a fishing B ~yakjoe

10-09-2015, 06:15 PM	#7
pbb Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: San Diego Posts: 149	I suspect your piece of aluminum is the culprit, possibly combined with over tightening. Think about the way they have bent. That suggests that the load is all getting applied to the end of the J and there is torque pushing down and out. Whereas without the aluminum block the load would be at the bottom of the J and not pushing out so much. __________________ 2008 Olive Hobie Revolution 13

10-09-2015, 09:47 PM	#8
Mahigeer Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Los Angeles Posts: 1,908	It looks to me that it is caused by having a load (kayaks) at the end of a lever (the uprights) putting sideways pressure on the J bolt/s. As the kayaks on the top move from center to left and right on the top (looking at the road from driver's seat), they exert load on the j bolts through the up rights. Which are now a lever. One end the j bolts, the other the kayaks. I think the only thing to do since the level distance cannot be changed; is either to lighten the load, use a thicker diameter j bolts, or jay bolts made from a stronger material. Some modification may have to be done to accommodate the thicker diameter j bolts. Good luck. Last edited by Mahigeer; 10-10-2015 at 06:38 AM.

10-08-2015, 03:11 PM	#1
spudz Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: SoCal Posts: 78	MrJB, Not sure where the original J-bolts were made. However, new J-bolts came in a bag/kit stamped made in China.

10-08-2015, 03:16 PM	#2
spudz Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: SoCal Posts: 78	MrJB & YakDout, I’ll keep the replacement J-bolts on for now and check every few months for any disfiguring. If these replacements falter, then I’ll take your advice and make a trip to a machine shop/cut down some trailer U-bolts. Would hate to lose the rack/kayak while driving down the PCH!

10-08-2015, 03:20 PM	#3
spudz Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: SoCal Posts: 78	Makobob, back plate under truck bed rail and through bolt through the back plate and rail plate section of tower?

10-08-2015, 03:36 PM	#4
jruiz Large Member Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: La Verne, CA Posts: 1,011	Have had mine on two different trucks for two years now. Didn't notice any problems when I switched them over to a different truck last May.