Rigging the Yaks! - Kayak Fishing Adventures on Big Water’s Edge

LBKayakDude · 12-16-2014, 09:11 AM

Sorry to threadjack. I only use my phone to view here. Did anybody else's forum do an "update". Everything's totally f'd I can't post a new thread or navigate at all through the forum. I hate updates...

dfroggy54 · 12-16-2014, 09:52 AM

Screws- 316 stainless screws, marine grade, bring them in to a west marine and they will size up the screws for you.

The center hatch- is it the panel that is stuck? or the rim that bolts to the yak?

the wiring- i would use a bus bar and jumpers to distribute the power and mount it inside a waterproof box. even though the x4 doesn't draw much juice, be careful of running the ff and pump to one pwr source. too small of a battery will drain one or the other. try a timer on the bait pump to conserve battery.
-->tin coated marine grade wire and water resistant shrink tube for your connections.

-bungee- you can buy solid core rubber or stranded rubber, the solid lasts a lot longer but is a little more expensive. whichever you use, you can shrink wrap over the frayed end so its cleaner looking.

anchor trolley-not a bad idea if you are going to be anchoring in strong current. I've used them for kelp clipping and also in the bay.

xwing-IMHO, is great for the bay but bulky for getting through the surf. id look into the ball ram mounts

Subarualmen · 12-16-2014, 10:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dfroggy54

Screws- 316 stainless screws, marine grade, bring them in to a west marine and they will size up the screws for you.

Good idea on the screws...

The center hatch- is it the panel that is stuck? or the rim that bolts to the yak?

the wiring- i would use a bus bar and jumpers to distribute the power and mount it inside a waterproof box. even though the x4 doesn't draw much juice, be careful of running the ff and pump to one pwr source. too small of a battery will drain one or the other. try a timer on the bait pump to conserve battery.
-->tin coated marine grade wire and water resistant shrink tube for your connections.

-bungee- you can buy solid core rubber or stranded rubber, the solid lasts a lot longer but is a little more expensive. whichever you use, you can shrink wrap over the frayed end so its cleaner looking.

anchor trolley-not a bad idea if you are going to be anchoring in strong current. I've used them for kelp clipping and also in the bay.

xwing-IMHO, is great for the bay but bulky for getting through the surf. id look into the ball ram mounts

I bought some nice Stranded Rubber. Mixed it up and went with a Brown color. I also bought 20 Clips for the ends. Figured i'd redo those as well!

I'll try to find a picture to how i'm setting up my trolley system tonight
Hmm good idea on the screws. The circulator part of the center hatch is stuck. The part that screws off to prevent bait from jumping out.

I will also be installing an 5-X Elite HDI so that may use a little more juice. I'll drop a link to the batteries i purchased tonight.

Subarualmen · 12-16-2014, 10:50 AM

EastLosYaker · 12-16-2014, 12:10 PM

It made a huge difference for when I installed my anchor trolley. Never used it for an actual anchor (although I have one), but like is invaluable when positioning yourself on a drift while using an anchor chute/drift sock. Its super easy to do as well. Lower priority though.

CG_88 · 12-16-2014, 01:28 PM

I like to clip my rod leashes to the anchor trolley, that way I can slide them up and down the kayak and keep the leashes out of the way.

mrJB · 12-16-2014, 03:15 PM

For the stuck hatch - put a bag of ice on it for a half-hour or so on a warm day, then work the hell out of it. The plastic contaction MIGHT just be enough to work it free. The clean everything up and use a silicone lube. For the rest, keep it simple, and keep everything out of the way in the seat area for an unobstructed re-entry.

12-16-2014, 09:11 AM	#1
LBKayakDude Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2014 Posts: 193	Sorry to threadjack. I only use my phone to view here. Did anybody else's forum do an "update". Everything's totally f'd I can't post a new thread or navigate at all through the forum. I hate updates... Last edited by LBKayakDude; 12-16-2014 at 09:29 AM.

12-16-2014, 09:52 AM	#2
dfroggy54 Rolly Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: San Diego Posts: 245	Screws- 316 stainless screws, marine grade, bring them in to a west marine and they will size up the screws for you. The center hatch- is it the panel that is stuck? or the rim that bolts to the yak? the wiring- i would use a bus bar and jumpers to distribute the power and mount it inside a waterproof box. even though the x4 doesn't draw much juice, be careful of running the ff and pump to one pwr source. too small of a battery will drain one or the other. try a timer on the bait pump to conserve battery. -->tin coated marine grade wire and water resistant shrink tube for your connections. -bungee- you can buy solid core rubber or stranded rubber, the solid lasts a lot longer but is a little more expensive. whichever you use, you can shrink wrap over the frayed end so its cleaner looking. anchor trolley-not a bad idea if you are going to be anchoring in strong current. I've used them for kelp clipping and also in the bay. xwing-IMHO, is great for the bay but bulky for getting through the surf. id look into the ball ram mounts __________________ I Fish. I catch. I Eat.

12-16-2014, 03:15 PM	#7
mrJB Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: O.C. Posts: 352	For the stuck hatch - put a bag of ice on it for a half-hour or so on a warm day, then work the hell out of it. The plastic contaction MIGHT just be enough to work it free. The clean everything up and use a silicone lube. For the rest, keep it simple, and keep everything out of the way in the seat area for an unobstructed re-entry. __________________ "I Brake for Halibut"

12-16-2014, 10:50 AM	#4
Subarualmen Member Join Date: Dec 2014 Posts: 91	Got this one in White: Also got a 3 year warranty for 9 bucks. http://www.amazon.com/Cobra-HH350W-F...=1418759092444 Batteries: Seems to have good reviews https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....1fL._SX90_.jpg https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....1fL._SX90_.jpg Bungee Shock Stretch Cord 1/4" (6.35mm) brown- 50 Feet, Made in USA https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....SnL._SY90_.jpg Rear replacement hatch https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....wdL._SY90_.jpg 3" zinc plated ring https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....jAL._SY90_.jpg Replacement drain plug https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....2uL._SY90_.jpg 36 Caribbeaners https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....FVL._SY90_.jpg 3 pound foldable anchor: https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....S1L._SX90_.jpg Battery Charger: https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....aVL._SX90_.jpg Square washer replacement https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....yQL._SY90_.jpg 1/4" 50' Rope https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....BQL._SY90_.jpg

12-16-2014, 12:10 PM	#5
EastLosYaker Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: East Los Angeles Posts: 220	It made a huge difference for when I installed my anchor trolley. Never used it for an actual anchor (although I have one), but like is invaluable when positioning yourself on a drift while using an anchor chute/drift sock. Its super easy to do as well. Lower priority though.

12-16-2014, 01:28 PM	#6
CG_88 Junior Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: Carlsbad/Vista Posts: 13	I like to clip my rod leashes to the anchor trolley, that way I can slide them up and down the kayak and keep the leashes out of the way.