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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 109
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Upside down is the easiest solution. Malibu says not to store it on the bottom and I would think that translates to hauling unless you use saddles. I have 2 other suggestions. One use 2 pieces of 2" pvc about 6 feet long, that rest on the extender and in the bed. Nestle them in the grooves in the hull nearest the center. those are reasonably flat and the pvc will create a nice uniform support and distribute the load. This is much better than the point load you are currently applying to the hull. Second stand the kayak on edge with one bulkhead on the extender. Place a 2x4 across the floor of the bed directly under the other bulkhead. Secure the kayak in the vertical position. You might need to add a post similar to the yakima hull stacker. However you do it don't over tighten the hold down straps. The straps holding hull down just need to be snug. Of course you need straps from the back of the bed to the center/middle of kayak.
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Leucadia, CA
Posts: 261
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I use rollers:
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: El Toro, CA
Posts: 244
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I have been using a bed extender for years.
Last Friday I was at a lake and discovered over two gallons of water inside my kayak. Lately it has been getting worse each trip offshore. I thought my hatches were leaking. No waves crashing over deck that day so hatch leaks could not be the cause. When I cleaned it, flipped it upside down to examine the hull. Found a 1.5” crack at a scupper hole. I caused the problem from using ratcheting ties downs on top of the bed extender. Over the years I tied them down too tight and stressed out the spot. My extender also has a homemade roller covered in a pool noodle and duct tape. Also transported at times with too much weight on the kayak such as Eclipse Hoop nets piled high. Went to Andy at OEX Sunset Beach and he did a great job fixing a difficult stress point. This discussion is timely as I am trying to figure out a better method too. I appreciate Tomahawk's suggestions that I would never have thought of such as using lengths of 2" PVC. I too want to transport right side up as I have hard rigged accessories that would take too much time to take off and put back on each trip to transport upside down. A 2 x 4 rack in the bed may be the other way to go to transport on its side. Thanks again, keep the ideas coming... |
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#4 |
Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 30
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As far as anchoring your support straps, it would be important to use a good sized backing plate on nuts or screws on the inside part of your kayak. This will help distribute the weight across a large area reducing chance of pull out. Might look at the stand up bar that is made for the PA, might get some ideas.
Good luck. Les |
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Thousand Oaks
Posts: 182
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Might not be perfect, but Darby makes a foam kayak pad that fits over the bed extender. It has some contour to it, but it probably won't be perfect. It runs $16 on etrailer.com.
I have a bed extender on the way and was thinking about trying it out. But I do like the roller idea for easy loading and unloading. I have some extra yakima landshark saddles... Maybe I'll try and adapt those. |
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