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Old 05-19-2014, 03:08 PM   #1
kareem korn
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You want to use the ABS (the black pipe) it floats. The sch 40 and 80 (white-gray) does not float.
I'll take a pic of mine tonight.
Easy peasy.
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Old 05-19-2014, 07:11 PM   #2
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Here is a picture of mine - simple, no batteries required...

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Old 05-19-2014, 08:08 PM   #3
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I've used bait tubes since I started fishing from a kayak 4 years ago, they work great and are a simple space saver.
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Old 05-20-2014, 02:54 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kareem korn View Post
You want to use the ABS (the black pipe) it floats. The sch 40 and 80 (white-gray) does not float.
I'll take a pic of mine tonight.
Easy peasy.
Cool thats what I bought. I was gonna cement one end cap on and I bought a screw in end cap for the other side. I was going to drill lots of holes in the main cylander for water flow and get the bait out of the end of the tube with the screw in cap. Is that a bad idea? Hard to get the bait out of one end? I ask because of the cool trap door in the pic posted above...thoughts?
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Old 05-20-2014, 03:02 PM   #5
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Trap door

I like having a trap door on the bait tube.

It is easy to slide them in and a little tilt one way or the other and they slide right to you.

Flip the door shut, secure the strap with velcro, back over the side, and you are off fishing.

I haven't used this tube in a while and when I opened the door the velcro came off the strap and stayed stuck to it's mate. I need to re-glue it to the strap.
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Old 08-20-2015, 12:20 PM   #6
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20150820_130804.jpg

20150820_130742.jpgMy 50...and 100...caliber bait barrels been using them for years what more do you want when you catch 3yellows and stop cause you don't want any more and released your last mackerel free
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Old 08-20-2015, 12:36 PM   #7
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Stopped with 3
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 20150814_115730.jpg (56.8 KB, 72 views)
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Old 08-20-2015, 12:40 PM   #8
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F...k it this website a pain in the ass to use
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Old 05-20-2014, 03:18 PM   #9
kareem korn
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Originally Posted by EntropyFletch View Post
Cool thats what I bought. I was gonna cement one end cap on and I bought a screw in end cap for the other side. I was going to drill lots of holes in the main cylander for water flow and get the bait out of the end of the tube with the screw in cap. Is that a bad idea? Hard to get the bait out of one end? I ask because of the cool trap door in the pic posted above...thoughts?
You don't need to drill the tube full of holes. Just the drain (green) end caps. Glue (ABS glue "black") the trailing end. Glue the leading cap into a slip to thread coupler. Glue a male coupler to the tube. Now you can unscrew the leading cap and tip your tube and out comes a bait.
Always put your bait in tail 1st so they are pointing forward. They won't drown. Also make sure the bait is the size so it can't turn around.
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Old 05-20-2014, 03:31 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by EntropyFletch View Post
Cool thats what I bought. I was gonna cement one end cap on and I bought a screw in end cap for the other side. I was going to drill lots of holes in the main cylander for water flow and get the bait out of the end of the tube with the screw in cap. Is that a bad idea? Hard to get the bait out of one end? I ask because of the cool trap door in the pic posted above...thoughts?

I personally had issues with the threaded caps getting sand and salt in them then getting stuck.

My view on it is no holes in the side but lots in the caps. Slip caps only and sand the tube down a little to make getting off slightly easier. I dont drill holes in main tube just because i feel that it holds a little more water when retreiving bait (while tube isnt in water). Put bait in head first from the back and take them out head first from the front. No need to be fancy at all.

Oh and like Mike said, make it long enough to go all the way behind your kayak.
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Old 05-20-2014, 06:54 PM   #11
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Alright I'm gonna have to try it. I'm not convinced sharks will be an issue, especially if you don't have to drill the tube full of holes. Thanks doe the real world experience, nice to clear up the speculation
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Old 05-21-2014, 02:11 PM   #12
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I personally had issues with the threaded caps getting sand and salt in them then getting stuck.

My view on it is no holes in the side but lots in the caps. Slip caps only and sand the tube down a little to make getting off slightly easier. I dont drill holes in main tube just because i feel that it holds a little more water when retreiving bait (while tube isnt in water). Put bait in head first from the back and take them out head first from the front. No need to be fancy at all.

Oh and like Mike said, make it long enough to go all the way behind your kayak.
Thanks, so you use slip caps on both ends huh. They never have fallen off? What do you attach your tow line to on the bait tube? zip tie loops?
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Old 05-21-2014, 03:24 PM   #13
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I have never had any issues even with sanding the tube slightly.

I run my tow line in though the front cap out the back cap and then knot it. Run the line off to one side obviously.
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Old 05-21-2014, 04:10 PM   #14
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Siebler:
I run my tow line in though the front cap out the back cap and then knot it.
Why didn't I think of that? Simple is always best.

In the picture I added two stainless steel washers, then clip a short length of bungee to the washers, then clip a tow line onto the bungee.

After reading about the sharks and seals going after the tubes, I will be adding a short length of 10 or 15# breakaway fishing line. Something grabs it, and snap, they can have it. I will get it back hopefully with teeth marks (a tooth would be even better) for another good kayak story.
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Old 06-04-2014, 09:54 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by kareem korn View Post
You want to use the ABS (the black pipe) it floats. The sch 40 and 80 (white-gray) does not float.
I'll take a pic of mine tonight.
Easy peasy.
So my bait tank battery does on me during my islander trip and I was love bait less for the whole afternoon so I want to build a bait tube as back up to take along.
Is there a reason that we want to build or use floating pipe instead of sinking pipe? I heard both ABS & PVC float
Thank you for your help!
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Old 06-04-2014, 11:00 AM   #16
kareem korn
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You want to use the black ABS not the gray schedule 80 or the white schedule 40.
If your in or close to the carlsbad area I can make you one for the price of materials. No worries.
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Old 06-04-2014, 11:04 AM   #17
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You want to use the black ABS not the gray schedule 80 or the white schedule 40.
If your in or close to the carlsbad area I can make you one for the price of materials. No worries.
Thank you very much for the offer but I'm in la/OC area
I was just wondering why we need to use floating ABS
Is it because of dragging issue? I'm thinking if you are using for live bait then don't you want it somewhat sink down to have water in the tube?
Thank you again!
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Old 06-04-2014, 11:38 AM   #18
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Thank you very much for the offer but I'm in la/OC area
I was just wondering why we need to use floating ABS
Is it because of dragging issue? I'm thinking if you are using for live bait then don't you want it somewhat sink down to have water in the tube?
Thank you again!
45
I think the explanation is with tubing that doesn't float it will sink when water is added whereas the tubing that floats will remain neutrally buoyant and stay near the surface, not float on top, this will in turn reduce drag as apposed to having what would be essentially a rock at the end of a rope...
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Old 06-04-2014, 12:31 PM   #19
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don't forget to send me your $.25! ........royalties you know

http://www.bigwatersedge.com/bwevb/s...highlight=tube
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Old 06-04-2014, 02:29 PM   #20
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don't forget to send me your $.25! ........royalties you know

http://www.bigwatersedge.com/bwevb/s...highlight=tube
Thanks Andy!
But I can't see the pic of your bait tube..

Thanks a bunch for all your help!
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