gooping a transducer - Kayak Fishing Adventures on Big Water’s Edge

Dannowar · 05-18-2014, 09:12 PM

You used a layer of putty under the transducer correct?

William Novotny · 05-18-2014, 09:39 PM

Just to let you guys know, I had it mounted with duct seal before. Appreciate the responded suggestions but it's already mounted now with goop. Just needed an answer to the original question about the bubbles appearing AFTER the drying process , and if you guys think bubbles also developed under the ducer, due to doing the job on an extremely hot day.

Dannowar · 05-18-2014, 09:56 PM

There's only one way to find out.

William Novotny · 05-18-2014, 10:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dannowar

There's only one way to find out.

Yeah. I'm field testing it in the morning

MrM · 05-19-2014, 06:55 AM

I gooped the ducer on my old T13 last year on a hot day. It worked great for about 4 months, then it started having random issues that I attributed to the air bubbles that showed up while drying. The success rate for goop doesn't seem to be extremely high for long term use IMO.

steveooo · 05-19-2014, 07:56 AM

If you are going to Goop, it is best to rough up the area on the yak with some course grit sandpaper so the adhesive has something to grab. Apply the goop and let it sit for about 5 min to let the solvent flash off. After 5 min, push the ducer in and wiggle side to side to get any big bubbles out. You don't need a lot of Goop in between the ducer and the yak. More goop = more chance for big bubbles. Just a thin layer of it between the kayak and the transducer is sufficient.

Tape it down, let it sit for at least 24 - 48 hours, and you should be good.

IMO guys overthink this, and the tiny bubbles don't affect the reading much. Prior to the through-hull, I Gooped all my transducers down using the method above. They were all a B*&% to remove when I wanted them off, they all had very tiny bubbles, and they all worked very well, even when compared to a spare transducer mounted directly int the water. Even on an old cheapo Eagle fish finder I could track small swim baits to the bottom in 100' of water.

I like the duct putty idea too, but don't like the idea that it can move when transporting the yak upside-down like I do. I can't access where I have my transducer mounted OTW, and I don't wan't to take the chance it won't work once I launch. Keep it simple stupid has always worked...

I guess there are many ways to fillet a WSB

octico · 05-19-2014, 08:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by William Novotny

Yeah. I'm field testing it in the morning

I am curious to see how this works with DSI. I read the manual that came with my Elite-4 and it states that internal hull mounting may produce less than optimal performance.

bwana · 05-19-2014, 09:11 AM

Lowrance makes a special epoxy for mounting thru hull transducers.

I bought some back in 2005 or 2006. Back then it had a silver metallic quality to it.

See: http://store.navico.com/products/000-0106-98

I am still using this kayak and the original transducer install is working without any issues.

Why put them in water boxes or create complicated mounts when this special transducer epoxy made by Lowrance specifically to mount their transducers works? I can't imagine they would recommend a product in their installation instructions that would degrade their unit's signal. Maybe I am missing something.

Since you have to purchase 6, I ended up sharing 4 with other brethren. All reported the same success.

octico · 05-19-2014, 10:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bwana

Lowrance makes a special epoxy for mounting thru hull transducers.

I bought some back in 2005 or 2006. Back then it had a silver metallic quality to it.

See: http://store.navico.com/products/000-0106-98

I am still using this kayak and the original transducer install is working without any issues.

Why put them in water boxes or create complicated mounts when this special transducer epoxy made by Lowrance specifically to mount their transducers works? I can't imagine they would recommend a product in their installation instructions that would degrade their unit's signal. Maybe I am missing something.

Since you have to purchase 6, I ended up sharing 4 with other brethren. All reported the same success.

I saw that on their site too, do you have the DSI model?

05-18-2014, 09:12 PM	#1
Dannowar Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2012 Posts: 1,823	You used a layer of putty under the transducer correct? __________________ "Beware the lollipop of mediocrity; lick it once and you’ll suck forever." — Brian Wilson

05-18-2014, 09:39 PM	#2
William Novotny The carpetbagger Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: tha newps Posts: 1,474	Just to let you guys know, I had it mounted with duct seal before. Appreciate the responded suggestions but it's already mounted now with goop. Just needed an answer to the original question about the bubbles appearing AFTER the drying process , and if you guys think bubbles also developed under the ducer, due to doing the job on an extremely hot day. __________________ "The charm of fishing is that it is the pursuit of what is elusive but attainable, a perpetual series of occasions for hope." http://www.badinfluencetattoo.com/gallery.php?artist=21

05-18-2014, 09:56 PM	#3
Dannowar Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2012 Posts: 1,823	There's only one way to find out. __________________ "Beware the lollipop of mediocrity; lick it once and you’ll suck forever." — Brian Wilson

05-19-2014, 06:55 AM	#5
MrM Senior Member Join Date: May 2012 Location: The Matrix Posts: 643	I gooped the ducer on my old T13 last year on a hot day. It worked great for about 4 months, then it started having random issues that I attributed to the air bubbles that showed up while drying. The success rate for goop doesn't seem to be extremely high for long term use IMO. __________________ -Kevin

05-19-2014, 07:56 AM	#6
steveooo Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2005 Posts: 1,922	If you are going to Goop, it is best to rough up the area on the yak with some course grit sandpaper so the adhesive has something to grab. Apply the goop and let it sit for about 5 min to let the solvent flash off. After 5 min, push the ducer in and wiggle side to side to get any big bubbles out. You don't need a lot of Goop in between the ducer and the yak. More goop = more chance for big bubbles. Just a thin layer of it between the kayak and the transducer is sufficient. Tape it down, let it sit for at least 24 - 48 hours, and you should be good. IMO guys overthink this, and the tiny bubbles don't affect the reading much. Prior to the through-hull, I Gooped all my transducers down using the method above. They were all a B*&% to remove when I wanted them off, they all had very tiny bubbles, and they all worked very well, even when compared to a spare transducer mounted directly int the water. Even on an old cheapo Eagle fish finder I could track small swim baits to the bottom in 100' of water. I like the duct putty idea too, but don't like the idea that it can move when transporting the yak upside-down like I do. I can't access where I have my transducer mounted OTW, and I don't wan't to take the chance it won't work once I launch. Keep it simple stupid has always worked... I guess there are many ways to fillet a WSB

05-19-2014, 09:11 AM	#8
bwana Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: El Toro, CA Posts: 244	Lowrance makes a special epoxy for mounting thru hull transducers. I bought some back in 2005 or 2006. Back then it had a silver metallic quality to it. See: http://store.navico.com/products/000-0106-98 I am still using this kayak and the original transducer install is working without any issues. Why put them in water boxes or create complicated mounts when this special transducer epoxy made by Lowrance specifically to mount their transducers works? I can't imagine they would recommend a product in their installation instructions that would degrade their unit's signal. Maybe I am missing something. Since you have to purchase 6, I ended up sharing 4 with other brethren. All reported the same success.