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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 6,856
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I believe you will only need a check valve if you are using a timer, other than that no need for it because your pump will run continously. The check valave should be placed anywhere after the pump and not before.
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#2 |
Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Corona Ca.
Posts: 58
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If you do use a check valve I used a check valve from home depot in the sprinkler department it cost $7.00. You can see it on my tank under spare parts bait tank. Works great. I am also going to make mine through the scupper hole. I have a hobie PA and it creates a noticable amount of drag having the pump hang over the side. The other option I was thinking about was to plumb the pump so it runs directly off the stern, securing the hose to the rear handle. Could be a problem clearing it if it got clogged though. Wont know till I try it.....im just sayin
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#3 |
Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Calabasas
Posts: 79
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Thanks for the replies.
Had to google"primer bulb" ![]() But I think I got it!!!!! |
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 2,384
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The primer bulb works great for easy priming of the pump. Here is how I have mine set up.
![]() ![]() ![]() I used a sink strainer (works wonders for keeping debris and eel grass out, and not getting stopped up) Gooped to a piece of a threaded pvc connector at the bottom of the pump. The largest primer bulb I could find was 3/8 inch and was the trickiest part of the operation. I had to get the crimped on ring off of either end and replace it with the hose clamps. Once you have the crimped connectors off, you can back out the inserts to allow you to attach the larger hose. But I had to modify mine cause it had a raised portion that the bulb butted up against when inserted (which was larger than the inside diameter of the hose). A sander or rasp will take care of it pretty quick. Then you just have to stagger the hose clamp over both the hose and the end of the bulb before you tighten it. |
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