11-25-2011, 06:49 PM | #1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 270
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having trouble
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11-25-2011, 07:23 PM | #2 |
Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 77
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How I fixed it
Had the same frustrating problem. Switched to cheap 2-pole trailer connectors for about four bucks (Pep Boys) waterproof heat shrink butt splices for the wires (home depot), gooped the battery box hole and never had a problem since. Just keep the contacts greased so they don't corrode.
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11-25-2011, 08:52 PM | #3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 314
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i used computer molex connectors
splice/soldered the one onto the FF base power wire inside yak and a short one coming out a hole in my FF box with clip/car speaker leads spliced/soldered on wires inside box to connect the battery easy to disconnect battery in box and easy to connect box and battery to FF power lead in hull of yak used foam to snug up the battery in the box spray molex's with corrosion x got my box from frys not pelican brand but just as tough P |
11-26-2011, 12:27 PM | #4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 270
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had similar idea
thx for help everyone. happy holidays. quick release outside of box can be real convenient . tight lines
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11-27-2011, 08:32 PM | #5 |
Junior
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 24
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Lame screws
I put one on my yak about 8 months ago and found it took about 6 screws to finally get two that didn't strip or simply wouldn't screw in correctly. OEX gave me a handful to make sure I could find two good screws.
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11-28-2011, 10:23 AM | #6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Cardiff, Ca
Posts: 185
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Had the same problem....so frustrating.... I ended up replacing at full cost...sucked!!! Didn't know I could get some screws at OEX...will try that...Mine are so loose the wires are bound to pull out.....
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11-28-2011, 10:37 AM | #7 | |
advocatus diaboli
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: San Diego
Posts: 154
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Quote:
Same here, but I used this guy...I wired the navi lights to one side and the FF to the other. I secured the female end to the box with goop and tri-fold rivets. |
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11-28-2011, 04:17 PM | #8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 270
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thx everyone
didnt know i could get some screws. i said to hell with it. drilled brass female ends on box side . ran the wires through. put sealant. got a trailer connector for couple bucks from pep boys . 2 wire connector. cheap one, unlike mazillas. tested it . im ready , all i have to do is drill scotty mount for madd frog arm. im mounting unit on ball into sailing mass recepticle. i think this is gonna work nicely. i dont want any monkey crap, wet mount in hull , that gives me all these crazy readings. this unit cost big bucks. 898 si . i better get some this year . for what i spent the fish should be jumping in the boat, or im getting my diving license.
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11-28-2011, 05:02 PM | #9 |
Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 77
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Unsolicited advice
I also put the cheapass trailer connector on my cheapass harbor freight charger to negate having to open the pelican box to charge the battery. Probably a good idea to crack it open while charging to dissipate heat, but I don't have to hassle with the inside wires to the battery.
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11-28-2011, 07:31 PM | #10 |
Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 77
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More unsolicited advice
I also have a Mad Frog transducer arm. I use one of the Scotty 3-way mounts and was able to bolt the Mad frog arm to its' ledge ( not the one that has slots for Pliers and lures) so the transducer sits a few inches off the hull, but is free to swing inboard for launch and landing. Plus it gives me 3 Scotty receivers fOr rod holders and my fish finder. I did buy a shOrt Scotty extender to get the whole shebang high enough off the deck so it would clear the rails.
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