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Old 09-28-2011, 04:56 PM   #1
sammysamsam
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Battery box plug

Shot out a pm to Andy and figured i would see what you guys suggest also.

I cant deal with the battery plug for my bait tank anymore. The wires from the pump keep slipping out of the male plug that i plug into the battery box or it doesnt make good contact inside the female end. Tried electrical tape but that doesnt work. i already bought another battery plug from oex and it just doesnt tighten down enough to hold the wires.
What can i do? Plus, once you tighten down the little screws on the plug, there is no way to open them again or else you strip the small brass screws. Do you have any ideas other than buying another $7 dollar battery plug and going through the same process? Im just frustrated with this thing since my bait keeps dying.
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Old 09-28-2011, 05:10 PM   #2
buttchaser
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Can you post some pictures of it?
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Old 09-28-2011, 05:22 PM   #3
sammysamsam
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those wires do not stay in that plug. ideas?

Also, What do you guys use to keep the battery box from moving around inside the hatch?
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Old 09-28-2011, 08:33 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sammysamsam View Post
those wires do not stay in that plug. ideas?

Also, What do you guys use to keep the battery box from moving around inside the hatch?

Can you solder (sp?) the wires to the connector pins?
I keep my battery box in place with a small bungy cord wrapped around the sail mast tube on my Hobie.
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Old 09-28-2011, 08:53 PM   #5
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Try a weatherproof connection!

Try these out.

Hobie uses them on their bait tank and they are weather proof.

Here is a link: http://www.performanceplusconnection...nKit16_14.html

They have different sizes also. Purchase the ones that fit your wires.
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Old 09-28-2011, 09:06 PM   #6
GregAndrew
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I prefer these outside the battery box.
http://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-47965-...271318&sr=1-11
I just drill 2 small holes in the box for the wires and goop them up.

I think the terminals are aluminum. I also have them permanently attached to my batteries so I don't have to mess around with the weak battery terminals.
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Old 09-29-2011, 01:36 AM   #7
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I had a the same issue so here's what I did.
  1. cut old wire off
  2. strip off outer cover(strip off just a little more than you'll need)
  3. flux both negative and positive strands thoroughly
  4. solder each wire, make sure the solder gets inside the strands
  5. measure each wires diameter making sure that each fits inside its respective hole, wire should have a snug fit
  6. measure and cut off excess wire
  7. if you have one insert outer protective cover over wire/cable
  8. loosen screw on plug, do not loosen to much or they will come off
  9. inside wires in their respective holes and tighten screw
When you tighten the screw it will dig itself into the solder and create a dimple as its tighhtened. The dimple will hold the wire in place and keep it from slipping out.

I went one step further and added marine goop to each hole where the wires fit and also gooped the section where the protective cover slips over the wire/cable. I insert and remove my plug every trip, its been almost a year since I did this and I have not had any issue to date.
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Old 09-29-2011, 07:28 AM   #8
mtnbykr2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sammysamsam View Post
those wires do not stay in that plug. ideas?

Also, What do you guys use to keep the battery box from moving around inside the hatch?
the insulated connectors are the best, the connectors Greg used are just as good, as far as holding the battery in place I found a 2 1/2 inch wide by approx 12 inch long velcro strap that has a stainless buckle on it, fits aroud the battery with just enough extra left to wrap around the mast post holds tight enough that when I forget to remove the battery it stays in place even when loading the yak upside down
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Old 09-29-2011, 07:44 AM   #9
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Go with Gregs soultion. You can buy them online cheap. Cut splice and solder them, followed by a couple coats of liquid electrical tape (west marine), then with electrical tape. Works great.
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Old 09-29-2011, 07:51 AM   #10
sammysamsam
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jorluivil View Post
I had a the same issue so here's what I did.
  1. cut old wire off
  2. strip off outer cover(strip off just a little more than you'll need)
  3. flux both negative and positive strands thoroughly
  4. solder each wire, make sure the solder gets inside the strands
  5. measure each wires diameter making sure that each fits inside its respective hole, wire should have a snug fit
  6. measure and cut off excess wire
  7. if you have one insert outer protective cover over wire/cable
  8. loosen screw on plug, do not loosen to much or they will come off
  9. inside wires in their respective holes and tighten screw
When you tighten the screw it will dig itself into the solder and create a dimple as its tighhtened. The dimple will hold the wire in place and keep it from slipping out.

I went one step further and added marine goop to each hole where the wires fit and also gooped the section where the protective cover slips over the wire/cable. I insert and remove my plug every trip, its been almost a year since I did this and I have not had any issue to date.
So essentially you are just adding solder to the wire so the screw can dig into the wire, correct?



Quote:
Originally Posted by GregAndrew View Post
I prefer these outside the battery box.
http://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-47965-...271318&sr=1-11
I just drill 2 small holes in the box for the wires and goop them up.

I think the terminals are aluminum. I also have them permanently attached to my batteries so I don't have to mess around with the weak battery terminals.
Are these weatherproof?
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Old 09-29-2011, 08:07 AM   #11
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Are these weatherproof?
weather proof.......yes, these are designed for trailer wire rigging. I sell these.
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Old 09-29-2011, 08:54 AM   #12
jorluivil
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sammysamsam View Post
So essentially you are just adding solder to the wire so the screw can dig into the wire, correct?
In a word: Yes.

In a few words: You're just turning stranded wire into solid wire. Since the solder is still somewhat flexible it will allow the screw tip to embed itself and create this dimple, or, lock.
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Old 09-29-2011, 02:50 PM   #13
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X2 on the ones Greg suggested. I've used those ever since I've started kayaking in 2004 and they have always held up to the salt. What I do to prevent corrosion is put dialectric grease on them every now and then and they stay clean!
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Old 09-29-2011, 06:12 PM   #14
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Thanks everyone for the suggestions. That is exactly what i needed to get constant power to my equipment.

Now if i can find a way to secure my battery boxes so it doesnt move around....
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Old 09-29-2011, 06:18 PM   #15
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I currently use both of the connectors suggested by Greg and Let's Fish. Both work well but the one the Let's Fish suggested is just about bullet proof. It is the same one that Hobie uses on their bait tank. This connector is expensive and hard to find. There is an industrial hardware supply off Miramar Rd. that has this connector in stock most of the time.

The trailer connector is almost as good and only costs a couple bucks at Pep Boys. A bit of dielectric grease slows down the inevitable corrosion.

Bob
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Old 09-29-2011, 06:34 PM   #16
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Try Double sided Velcro tape to keep the box in place
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Old 09-29-2011, 06:59 PM   #17
sammysamsam
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dsafety View Post
I currently use both of the connectors suggested by Greg and Let's Fish. Both work well but the one the Let's Fish suggested is just about bullet proof. It is the same one that Hobie uses on their bait tank. This connector is expensive and hard to find. There is an industrial hardware supply off Miramar Rd. that has this connector in stock most of the time.

The trailer connector is almost as good and only costs a couple bucks at Pep Boys. A bit of dielectric grease slows down the inevitable corrosion.

Bob
that one looks like it will give me the least amount of problems. that link provided at that auto place sells them for about 4 bucks with free shipping.
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Old 09-29-2011, 07:00 PM   #18
sammysamsam
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Try Double sided Velcro tape to keep the box in place
wont the water get to the glue and come off?
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Old 09-29-2011, 08:10 PM   #19
Lets_Fish
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connectors

Quote:
Originally Posted by dsafety View Post
This connector is expensive and hard to find. There is an industrial hardware supply off Miramar Rd. that has this connector in stock most of the time. Bob
Bob, do you know how much they cost at the hardware supply you mentioned? The link I provided sells them for $4-$5 a pair which is not much more than the "trailer" connection. You can also purchase replacement "tips" for repairs if need be (i.e. replacement of wires). The link I provided has free shipping and they do ship fast. I have purchased all of my additional connectors from them.

Here is the link once more:http://www.performanceplusconnection...2033729g2oycnn
& their ebay link:http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Weath...#ht_2191wt_940

Quote:
Originally Posted by buttchaser
Try Double sided Velcro tape to keep the box in place
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sammysamsam
wont the water get to the glue and come off?
You can always epoxy the velcro to the hull.

Also note that both types of connectors are "weather proof" not "WATER PROOF". Don't confuse the two.

Last edited by Lets_Fish; 09-29-2011 at 08:12 PM. Reason: added links
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Old 09-29-2011, 08:23 PM   #20
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What I find causing more corrosion than anything is when you forget to unplug the battery after each use. Leaving the battery hooked up really seems to speed up the corrosion process. Now that I unplug after each use and a little dielectric grease every now and then I have not had any problems. Which means next time out everything will fail
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