|
Home | Forum | Online Store | Information | LJ Webcam | Gallery | Register | FAQ | Community | Calendar | Today's Posts | Search |
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
01-06-2013, 07:15 AM | #1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 2,526
|
hobie tank repairs
|
01-06-2013, 09:07 AM | #2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Poway, CA
Posts: 148
|
Had the same problem with my hobie tank at the switch, had to scrape off the clear insulation and re-solder the corroded terminal switch had failed then marine gooped the heck out of it.
I'm going to try your suggestion about the intake as I am tired of it sucking up EVERY piece of eel grass in the ocean!!! You would think that a tank that cost $200 would be made a little better with a little more thought about it's potential for pulling in foreign material (eel grass)! |
01-06-2013, 10:02 AM | #3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 2,526
|
look for small package
there will be 2 screen replacements .about the size of a penny. i trimmed almost all the rubber on edges of screen and gently pressed it into the intake tube after removing the black nipple. replace black nipple and you are done. after a few launching and landings some sand will collect on screen, but not enough to stop flow . a few good pumps with peddles to get flow going to prime the tank is all that is needed. gallons per minute flow rate is reduced , but nothing that affects bait. one thing is for sure . grass is not going up inside. . been using for about 4 outings . so far , so good.
|
01-06-2013, 11:14 AM | #4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: South OC
Posts: 1,606
|
I've been using a drain plug screen for sinks. These are also sold in pairs. The Nylon type work best. Simply put it on like a condom and zip tie the top. Because of the screen it's difficult to plug the in-take tube. IF something does get caught, moving around usually dislodges the debris..
Used to get clogged in the kelp until I began using this solution. |
01-06-2013, 11:24 AM | #5 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Corona, CA
Posts: 472
|
Quote:
|
|
01-06-2013, 11:42 AM | #6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Under a bridge
Posts: 2,169
|
About a year ago I got tired of the connections and switch issues. Completely eliminated the switch and rewired the tank. At the battery I use a red/white connector like the ones found at automotive stores for .99 cents. When you make a wire to wire connection put on shrink tubing And then goop it all over. When you are ready to turn on tank, you turn around and plug in, simple.
I have not had one tank related issue in a year. |
01-06-2013, 11:47 AM | #7 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Corona, CA
Posts: 472
|
Quote:
|
|
01-06-2013, 06:01 PM | #8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 2,526
|
thx matt
i did same . ditched the switch. i used cheap barrel connection and that is why it popped off. along with the fact i had about 30 ragging macs slashing around. . dogs were really all over my ass at lj squid grounds yesterday. if i went to deeper water i wanted to be prepared. i will try your idea and run new wire. thx.
|
01-09-2013, 04:20 PM | #9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 2,526
|
got the new wire installed
put a screw on wire connector like the stock one . also some marine goop. the mistake i made when i bypassed the switch was , i used a barrel connector. this time i used some metal staples to secure wires together to alleviate some stress, along with some additional wire ties. tested it out, and we are ready to go. i also bought i new dip tube from the local pet supply store . i cut it to about 14 " . 4 - 5 " deep into kayak and about 9 '" height inside tank . this will give me good support into kayak to prevent tank from moving and a nice high water level to support 30 ragging macs slashing about in tank. thx everyone for help and suggestions.
|
01-10-2013, 06:41 AM | #10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Cypress, CA
Posts: 789
|
I Never used a zip tie on a condom... Strange comparison....
__________________
|
01-10-2013, 09:00 AM | #11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 6,856
|
I followed what Matt did and went straight battery to pump. Unlike Matt, the thing that I don't like about it is the 'reach around'.
__________________
www.facebook.com/Teamsewer |
01-10-2013, 09:01 AM | #12 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 6,856
|
__________________
www.facebook.com/Teamsewer |
01-10-2013, 09:37 AM | #13 |
Guest
Posts: n/a
|
I've been through 5 switches on my tank in 4 months, same problem over and over. Granted I fish 3-4 days a week minimum so it see's a lot of abuse.
Corrosion and snapping at the wire to the switch connection. It's been under warranty and the shop kept assuring me it they would fix it. Finally, I just asked for the switch and I would take care of it myself. I covered the switch where the wires connect with so much marine goop and I haven't had an issue as of yet. |
01-10-2013, 01:48 PM | #14 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 2,526
|
after the first switch
i bypassed it, and hooked up that barrel connector to make straight connection, without using marine goop. lasted a good while, until i over crammed the tank with 30 ragging macs. my stock hobie switch was pretty good , it was coated with red latex? to try and prevent failure. the switch failed somewhere inside , i believe. unlike some users on this site , i like the occasional reach around . bypassing sucks ess. but it is one less thing to worry about . after all the bucks i spent , i did not want to spend another 30 for a switch from west marine. thanks again for any input .
|
|
|