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Old 02-15-2011, 12:44 PM   #21
OUTBACK SPECIAL
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It's pretty simple. Watch this a few times and you'll be doing it in your sleep
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=snGUpj2MAao
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Old 02-15-2011, 01:32 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by steveooo View Post
Tensile strength for the 3M 4200 is 300 PSI, the 5200 fast cure is 600 PSI, the 5200 slow cure is 700 PSI.

All those numbers are for adhesion under ideal conditions. On gelcoat the 5200 tensile strength is 519 PSI, and for adhesion to polyethylene that number drops down to 48 PSI.


The Marine Goop tensile strength starts around 3800 PSI under ideal conditions, and is at about 1700 PSI on some plastics. Much stronger that the 5200, but all of this is still ridiculous overkill for the sealant properties that we actualy use them for.

Steve, where are you getting those specifications from?
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Old 02-15-2011, 02:33 PM   #23
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Steve, where are you getting those specifications from?
From the Technical Data Sheets on each manufacturers website.

I do take all the available info wth a grain of salt though. The ASTM tests they use to get the data do have standard protocol that must be followed, and the tests are usually done by independent testing labs.

However, as we have seen with the MLPA and the "science", it is easy to make statistics and data say whatever you want them to. "Lap Shear" and "180° Peel Tests" are adhesion tests that can be recreated in a labratory with consistency, but they dont really show how a product functions in the "real world". It is common for manufacturers to test only on data that will make them look superior to their competition, and not test on the data that will make your product look inferior. Both companies probably make some some disclaimers that the end-user must determine the suitability of the product for the intended application, because their are alot of factors that are variable in each circumstance.


The way i see it, if it works for you, use it. If not, use the other one. If that one doesn't work, use the next.

Now if only I had a yacht that I could test all this out on...
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Old 02-15-2011, 02:44 PM   #24
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Thanks Steve, I have to agree. I was rather surprised to see Goop's results, as my experience over time with the product has just barely been acceptable, while I have been very impressed with 5200; not that my experience is the end-all. I know both products will work, but personally, the first I'd go to is the 5200
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Old 02-15-2011, 03:26 PM   #25
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For what its worth OEX uses 100% Goop. We do A LOT of pump kits and similar installations and never had any issues.
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Old 02-15-2011, 03:28 PM   #26
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I use the goop and have not had any leaks either.
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Old 02-15-2011, 04:22 PM   #27
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As long as we are on the subject, would you guys use something like Goop to seal a through hull fitting for a transducer cable? Is there a less glue-like caulking that would be better for a cable in case you ever have to remove it?
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Old 02-16-2011, 08:45 AM   #28
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As long as we are on the subject, would you guys use something like Goop to seal a through hull fitting for a transducer cable? Is there a less glue-like caulking that would be better for a cable in case you ever have to remove it?

I think most of guys use Goop and some sort of fitting

Here are 2


http://www.kayakfishingsupplies.com/...re-Seal/Detail

http://www.kayakfishingsupplies.com/...clam%29/Detail

Cheaper way is to use a rubber stopper, even cheaper is to just run the wires through a hatch.
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Old 02-16-2011, 10:01 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by steveooo View Post
I think most of guys use Goop and some sort of fitting

Here are 2


http://www.kayakfishingsupplies.com/...re-Seal/Detail

http://www.kayakfishingsupplies.com/...clam%29/Detail

Cheaper way is to use a rubber stopper, even cheaper is to just run the wires through a hatch.

I actually have one of these:


How hard is it to undo Goop if I need to take the transducer cable out? Maybe an RTV silicone caulk would be better?
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