avet sx

[T Bone]

one of the reels I lost was JX2 #6 off the line.went to buy an MX2 and found out they just released the JX2.I loved that reel.....sigh.....

As for maintenance.They are NOT newells.Ferraris need more maintenance than most cars too.

[MVC]

I have 3 Avets that I use from the kayak. I have not had any problems with them gumming up. The Avets are very simple to take apart and clean and the bearings cost about 5.00 each.

[h2ofishfo]

sqiudco theres not a whole lota places that offer free spectra with a avet sale

[Mtobolsky]

melton tackle has the best price right now by 40 bones

[wiseguy]

This is where I buy my Avet reels! Great deals right now.

http://www.jandh.com/

[umtduckhead]

squidco has the sx for 159.00 plus the load it with spect and topshot.. cant beat em

[T-Rex]

I've got 3 Avet sx's and love em. Great little reels and I've never had a problem with too little drag, but I do have to service them more frequently (when they get wet) than my other reels - salt water gets into the reel easily and rinsing afterward doesn't get it all out and the bearings start to stick. The "sealed" bearings tend to trap saltwater that gets into the reel. Fortunately, they're very easy to tear apart and put back together. Regular servicing keeps the bearings in good shape so they don't have to be replaced.

[gary sullivan]

I have one of the first sx 2-speeds that came out and got a lot of experience dealing with saltwater intrusion. Everything T-rex said is spot on. With the earlier versions, salt water would get behind the drag washer and corrode the metal causing it to expand outward. The end result was that you would lose free spool capability unless you loosened the three screws that hold the right endplate in place. Avet got smart and glued the drag washer to the aluminun metal surface. I heard that Avet asks you now if you are a kayak fisherman when you call in with problems that could be saltwater related.

[blackcloud9]

As far as the SX, mine has caught BSBs and 20 lb yellowtail no problem. I
would rather hook the bigger fish on the MX though.

The 3 Avets I have had for years on the kayak - an SX, an
MXJ and an MXJ 2speed. They stay high and dry in my baittank rod
holders and I have never "maintained" them myself except taking them
in to a shop one time for thorough cleaning. I think they are great.

My reels get splashed at worst, and I would never try to get
salt-water "out" with fresh water. I rinse the outsides very lightly
and never spray water into the reel. That works for me.

[fknricter]

ive got a few avets myself, love them so far! ive torn them all down myself. its pretty easy! and with all my reels, i "paint" all the inner surfaces with a light coat of grease, this help the water run off the surfaces and not have a chance to dry and leave salt deposits. i also remove the shields from the spool bearings, clean out the grease and add oil. for some reason the spool bearings have 1 side shielded and the other open. with both sides open, the water cant get stuck in there. + you gain freespool(which can be bad if your thumb isnt ready for it) oil may not stay in there as long as grease but it only takes 3 screws to access them. so far i own an sx, mxj, and jx, and just won an sx mc! love them all so far! take them on kayak with no guming issues that i could tell, and always stow them away when landing just incase i dump and lose them..
as for the mc or non mc ?. the only downside to the mc i saw, was you lose a little bit of distance, depending on what youre doing, and for me personally, if i were fishing the mc reel, then grab the non-mc one and make a cast, i would forget that i have to thumb it and birdsnest. thats it..

[WahooUSMA]

Originally Posted by T-Rex

I've got 3 Avet sx's and love em. Great little reels and I've never had a problem with too little drag, but I do have to service them more frequently (when they get wet) than my other reels - salt water gets into the reel easily and rinsing afterward doesn't get it all out and the bearings start to stick. The "sealed" bearings tend to trap saltwater that gets into the reel. Fortunately, they're very easy to tear apart and put back together. Regular servicing keeps the bearings in good shape so they don't have to be replaced.

Have you ever removed the main bearings? Those are somewhat more difficult to remove then the two spool bearings. I just got back from Long Fin this afternoon and we tore my 'new' MXL apart because when in the strike mode, it is really difficult to reel (definite main bearing). We tried to get to the main bearing but just couldn't. As I said in my previous post - I love the Avets - (Actually I saw the SX that everyone was talking about today for 159.00 and bought one too). I will have to send my new MXL into Avet to have the main bearing replaced. Sucks - only used this one a couple of times.

Additionally, Avet did a test recently grease vs. no grease for drag pressure - No grease won. As far as cleaning - I was told by the Avet rep and Long Fin that if you shut the drag all the way closed, you can actually submerse the reel in warm water to clean....I was not initially comfortable doing that, but WTF? I have been doing it awhile now, and out of 7 Avets, the new MXL is the only one that has taken a big sheeeet for no reason.

[Nic D]

Originally Posted by WahooUSMA

Additionally, Avet did a test recently grease vs. no grease for drag pressure - No grease won.

of course they said that. I don't care what Avet says, Im going with Alan Tani. Alan doesn't have a dog in the fight, he just knows reels.

this was his post that he has posted on just bout every fishing forum known to man, except this one, and if he knew about this forum Im sure he would post it if needed.

"i've applied a thick coat of shimano drag grease to the inside of the spool and to both sides of the drag washer. the purpose is to protect these surfaces from salt water intrusion. apply enough grease to prevent water from getting in between the drag washer and the spool."

and then later he says
"guys, don't forget!!!!! the drag washers on the smaller reels, sx, mx, jx and lx, are all glued in now. my recommendation is to slap a thick coat of drag grease on the washer, , wipe off the excess and you're done. make sure you get all the corners. you don't want salt water creeping underneath the drag washer because the aluminum will bubble.

the main point is that you can not pry out these new "glued in" drag washers. a guy just sent me a pm saying that he did exactly that. we've talked about it so much here, that i thought everyone knew. alan"

[WahooUSMA]

Originally Posted by Tamarack Studios

of course they said that. I don't care what Avet says, Im going with Alan Tani. Alan doesn't have a dog in the fight, he just knows reels. "

From BD forum

To Grease or Not to Grease?

---

WOW! The quest for perfection. You would think something as simple as slowing down a fish hell bent on freedom over a frying pan would be easy. NOT!

Well, I have read all of your posts from Hawaii to Germany, from salmon to giant bluefin tuna, from jerky to super smooth and from grease or no grease.

The bottom line is, no matter how much someone listens, researches, reads or peers into the crystal ball, they are always going to follow the method that they feel either makes the most sense or that which makes them more confident in their own ways.

Well, here is one more post that I hope will settle down this flurry of varied self determined opinions weather to grease or not to grease.

Today, May 14th was dedicated to full-on total R&D (grease/no grease) day at Avet. Sarkis, Harry, Dave Rocchi and Ben Frazier spent the day burning a lot of gas, burning a lot of drag washers and tearing down and scrutinize a lot of reels.

They obviously needed to standardize their testing so 100 yard monofilament topshots were designated as the line of choice since they had between 100 and 110 yards for their flight path. That length would cover most topshots with spectra backing and at the same time maintain consistency of the increase in line pressure as the line diameter decreased and the spool rotation increased.

Both single and twin drag reels were tested. Single drag reels were tested at full and twin drag reels were tested at strike (Dave really wasn’t up for what you called “asphalt skiing”). Line size was standardized to 40lb for single disk and 130lb for twin disk. Speed varied from 25 to 30 MPH at 75 yards depending on how close the looke lou’s got. Between the V-10 Dodge truck and the Hummer, speed was not nearly as critical as breaking.

While maintaining a common stance, they used what they thought was the best drag grease available and testing was performed immediately after the line was retrieved back on the reel with a calibrated scale.

Results are as follows:

v Single drag reels (dry drags): After 1st test = 100% of original drag, 2nd test followed immediately = 105% of original drag and immediately followed by 3rd test which also yealded 105% of original drag setting.
Teardown exposed slight yellow/bluish tinting of drag plate, but very little visual wear of carbon fiber drag.

v Single drag reels (greased drags after setting drag with excessive grease wiped off): Prior to load testing, the wet drag maintained same drag pressure as the dry drag on straight short pull. 1st (high speed) tests showed an average of 6 - 8% reduction from original drag setting. 2nd tests resulted in 10 to 13% reduction from original setting and 3rd tests stayed around the same.
Teardown also exposed yellow/bluish tinting of drag plate. Also appeared that as heat built up grease would become thinner and the centrifugal force would send (oil at this point) the grease to the outer diameter of the spool. After the third test, there appeared to be very little grease left on the drag. Possibly absorbed into the drag material but not visible at this point.

v Conclusion at this point: Single drags will be fine with smaller fish that won’t put the reel to the big test by pulling a lot of drag and building up a lot of heat. When the heat starts to build up, it appears as though the drag effectiveness is compromised.

v After the 3rd test, they allowed the reel to cool off for 3 minutes and retested with a short pull test. The drags came back to within approximately 5% of the original setting, and after 10 minutes of cool off, the drags came back to 100% of the original setting.

v Twin drag testing was performed with a Pro EXW50/2 loaded with 130lb mono over spectra. The Spectra was never exposed during any of the tests. All testing (both greased and non-greased) was with a drag setting of 35lbs at strike.

v First and second dry tests resulted in drag increasing to 37lbs. After the second test, those drags were getting very hot and we decided to take it apart cool it down and grease em up, wiping off any excess.

v Results from the 1st test equated to the same as the dry test showing an increase of 2 lbs of drag (37lbs).

v Results from the 2nd test showed a decrease of 3.5 lbs down to 33.5 lbs of drag immediately after the line was retrieved.

v The reel was disassembled and showed just slight discoloration of the plate and once again small amount grease built up on inside of side plate. Also there was very little sign of any grease on washers themselves.

v They figured it was getting late but had time for one more test, so the drag washers went to the sink and were soaked with water and reassembled.
Once again the drags were set at 35lbs (strike) and off went the Hummer. This was somewhat non-conclusive since the drags were still warm, but not hot and the water absorbed into the drag washers pretty quickly. As a result of the wet/no so wet drag, there was only a loss of .5lbs down to 34.5lbs of drag.

v Conclusion at this point: Twin drags with no grease stayed fairly consistent and even increased slightly when initially heated up (or worn in).
With grease applied, the drags also increased up to 37lbs but when really heated up the drags started to loose a little moving down to 33.5lbs.

Your call at this point depending what your fishing for. Granders from Hawaii to Portugal that are going to do everything possible to melt you and your drags while strapped in and strapped down using monster drag settings (35-70) or stand-up on the rail dealing with a little less drag (30 – 45) and YFTs, BFTs etc. that hopefully will settle down and not get too stupid with you.

Avet’s stance at this point: They are going to hold on to their original direction of NO grease due to inconsistencies resulting from varying temperatures, having to reapply grease periodically, grease having a tendency of attracting inherent elements such as salt, carbon dust etc.

One very important factor to take into consideration is that Avet is building high quality reels for people fishing all over the world for every type of application be it extreme or simple day of enjoyment on the water type of fishing. Their thought process is to keep them simple, affordable, and strong while maintaining a high level of quality and customer satisfaction. Consistency and quality control are two of the most challenging facets of any major reel manufacturer. As the age old adage goes, “you can make everyone happy some of the time and you can make some of the people happy all of the time, but you can’t make everyone happy all of the time”. This is one company that I know that will keep trying their best to make everyone happy.
__________________
Any questions or comments reguarding Avet Reels please contact me rickozaki@sbcglobal.net

[Nic D]

you should have quoted Alan's response later in that thread.




"many of you know that a greased carbon fiber drag has been my standard for many years. i am happy to say that this drag system is now used in the flagship two speed reels of penn, shimano, daiwa, accurate, and okuma. avet is last company that does not. i find that odd, but not odd enough to warrant a review of my current procedures. clearly in the minority, avet's stance troubles me little. for those of you that wish to abide by avet's policies, i wish you luck. for those of you that wish to grease your drag washers, i welcome you to the dark side......."



so penn, shimano, daiwa, accurate, and okuma all use grease huh?

I'd much rather listen to Cal Sheets and Alan Tani than a manufacturer. You can do as you wish. I'll be on the dark side...

[PaddleHP]

Originally Posted by umtduckhead

squidco has the sx for 159.00 plus the load it with spect and topshot.. cant beat em

Squidco has the best local prices on Avets, with the free braid, but Angler's Choice is having Parking lot sale next Saturday with their Sale's Reps on hand. Plus they are having a co-signement sale on some used gear.
http://www.anglerschoicetackle.com/F...s/JEV_REP_YEAR

Parking Lot Sale June 19th!!!


9am-4pm (sales reps on hand) one day only!

Model	Old Price	New Price
SX 5.3	$199.99	$159.99
SX 5.3 MC	$239.99	$199.99
SX 6/4 2-SPEED	$289.99	$249.99
SX 6/4 2-SPEED MC	$329.99	$289.99
MXL 5.8	$219.99	$179.99
MXL 5.8 MC	$259.99	$219.99
MXL 6/4 2-SPEED	$329.99	$289.99
MXL 6/4 2-SPEED MC	$369.99	$329.99

[Stoneale]

"9/29/06 at the Hudson Canyon aboard the Belmar Princess. Caught my limit jigging with a 4 1/2 ft Lamiglass standup rod and an Avet SX 5.0 65lb braid with 50lb mono topshot."

[T-Rex]

Originally Posted by WahooUSMA

Have you ever removed the main bearings? Those are somewhat more difficult to remove then the two spool bearings.

Yeah, I've had a hard time removing the drive shaft bearings and even the brake bearing. Fortunately, the home made bearing removal tool that Alan Tani recommends works great. It just takes a sheet load of force sometimes.

I also follow Tani's advice and grease the washers. I really didn't notice any difference in performance, but now there is zero corrosion around the washer. Before using grease, there used to be small specks of corrosion at the edge of the glued-on washer where it meets the spool.

[WahooUSMA]

Originally Posted by T-Rex

Yeah, I've had a hard time removing the drive shaft bearings and even the brake bearing. Fortunately, the home made bearing removal tool that Alan Tani recommends works great. It just takes a sheet load of force sometimes.

I also follow Tani's advice and grease the washers. I really didn't notice any difference in performance, but now there is zero corrosion around the washer. Before using grease, there used to be small specks of corrosion at the edge of the glued-on washer where it meets the spool.

I can't for the life of me get the drive shaft bearing out. I had to have Anglers Center send my last two out reels out - my SX and MXL. Where can I find this tool? It would save me $55.00.

Do you think the Penn Reel grease will work? And, just a small amount on the spool side? Is this where the spool meets the back side of the frame, because there are bearings there too? I'll give it a shot. Let me know if the Penn grease will work (don't see why it wouldn't?). I don't usually go with the manufactures recommendations, but if everyone is saying "Grease-em" then I'll give it a try. Thanks

[T-Rex]

Originally Posted by WahooUSMA

I can't for the life of me get the drive shaft bearing out. I had to have Anglers Center send my last two out reels out - my SX and MXL. Where can I find this tool? It would save me $55.00.

Do you think the Penn Reel grease will work? And, just a small amount on the spool side? Is this where the spool meets the back side of the frame, because there are bearings there too? I'll give it a shot. Let me know if the Penn grease will work (don't see why it wouldn't?). I don't usually go against the manufactures recommendations, but if everyone is saying "Grease-em" then I'll give it a try. Thanks

You gotta make the tool out of a strong coat hanger. You need a needle nose pliers to bend the end and then grind or file the hook end to a fine point. You work the point in behind the bearing so it catches and then pull HARD. I was surprised how much force was needed to break the corrosion loose.

Penn reel grease is not intended for washers...I think it's only for gears, bushings, and some bearings. Stick with Cal's or Shimano drag grease for your washers. Any other grease on your drag washers will probably cause big problems with the drag slipping and sticking.

Check out Alan Tani's website for details on how to make the tool or PM me and I'll be happy to give you a couple.

[Lets_Fish]

Originally Posted by T-Rex

You gotta make the tool out of a strong coat hanger. You need a needle nose pliers to bend the end and then grind or file the hook end to a fine point. You work the point in behind the bearing so it catches and then pull HARD. I was surprised how much force was needed to break the corrosion loose.

Penn reel grease is not intended for washers...I think it's only for gears, bushings, and some bearings. Stick with Cal's or Shimano drag grease for your washers. Any other grease on your drag washers will probably cause big problems with the drag slipping and sticking.

Check out Alan Tani's website for details on how to make the tool or PM me and I'll be happy to give you a couple.

Here is one of the links on bearings, grease and tools by Alan Tani.
http://www.stripersonline.com/surfta...d.php?t=626171
Alan describes how to make the tool.
As far as grease goes, try Cal's grease. Should be able to get it at a local tackle shop.

Here is a link for bearings that I found also.
http://www.bocabearings.com/main1.as...=crossref&pg=5