DIY Kayak Cart or buy cheap pre-made on Amazon?

[Jacurley45]

Originally Posted by TheBoyScout

Ha you're cool...
I just learned not to be a cheap ass...
Glad your hours of time aren't worth 32 bucks haha

Then what's your answer? :-) I'm just trying to figure out an effective but cheap cart without breaking the bank as I just spent a grand and half investment of pre-owned Revo.

I have to buy a hobie livewell as well. If the cart sucks & breaks... At least I can weld them back together and use until I have enough money for good one. My $$ into livewell is atop of my priority list.

[Harry Hill]

Originally Posted by Jacurley45

Then what's your answer? :-) I'm just trying to figure out an effective but cheap cart without breaking the bank as I just spent a grand and half investment of pre-owned Revo.



I have to buy a hobie livewell as well. If the cart sucks & breaks... At least I can weld them back together and use until I have enough money for good one. My $$ into livewell is atop of my priority list.

I've been using the DIY for six months now without breaking it.I'm thinking of firing up the ol tubing bender and making one like the Boodox landing gear..

[ctfphoto]

The DIY is a good one and won't break, it's bombproof and finds the fulcrum (very important)

Wait, well I did break mine, but it fell off my roof rack on a cold morning and shattered. Fixed it in minutes back to bombproof. When my 2015 outback fell off my roof rack, parts broke as well. Shyt happens.

[alanw]

Originally Posted by Jacurley45

What plan did you used or you made I on your own? Picture?

I went to a hobie dealer and measured a universal cart, then modified it to perfectly fit the stealth and x-factor hulls that I had.
cartstudiouniversal04sm__04065.1383164995.1280.1280.jpg

[Jacurley45]

Originally Posted by alanw

I went to a hobie dealer and measured a universal cart, then modified it to perfectly fit the stealth and x-factor hulls that I had.


Attachment 18272

Nice, now I'm planning on making my own as my boss said that he will help me with making a cart of my own by this week. Can't decide between the universal version or something like this...



http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009V6..._1455479159800

[ronbo613]

Originally Posted by Jacurley45

Impressive! ALL PVC? Or with wood dowels as support?

As for the 3rd world sweat shop employee, they can definitely do it better as it takes constant practice on the daily basis to perfecting the welding method! I can do it pretty well but not as good as I don't do it for a living.

All PVC. I guy emailed me and told me that stuffing the PVC with packing peanuts made it stronger, give something like that a try if you think it would help.

The company in China that makes that Amazon cart sends me emails through my website to buy them for resale. You can probably buy three or four of them through Alibaba for the price of one at Amazon.

Originally Posted by TheBoyScout

Ha you're cool...
I just learned not to be a cheap ass...
Glad your hours of time aren't worth 32 bucks haha

As with all the kayak rigging articles on my website, they are only one way of doing things. Hopefully, they will serve as a starting point for others to do their own thing.

What I can't do is explain to a closed minded idiot the satisfaction you get from making something with your own two hands. In this case, I wouldn't say you are a "cheap ass", just a plain old run of the mill ass.

[Jacurley45]

Originally Posted by ronbo613

What I can't do is explain to a closed minded idiot the satisfaction you get from making something with your own two hands. In this case, I wouldn't say you are a "cheap ass", just a plain old run of the mill ass.

Haha thanks for great tips regarding to peanuts. I'm going to make one from either steel or thick aluminum. Will keep this thread posted with my project

[alanw]

Regular steel will rust, go with stainless if you can. The Harbor Freight rims will rust too, plan on replacing them every few years or find some plastic hubbed wheels.

[Jacurley45]

HF wheels are cheap so its not a concern. Can't weld a stainless as that will require a special welder which we don't have. I will spray an enamel paint on it and renew the paint job every once awhile to prevent a corrosion. That's why ill prefer aluminum if I can.

[maquinapescado]

Originally Posted by Jacurley45

Then what's your answer? :-) I'm just trying to figure out an effective but cheap cart without breaking the bank as I just spent a grand and half investment of pre-owned Revo.

I have to buy a hobie livewell as well. If the cart sucks & breaks... At least I can weld them back together and use until I have enough money for good one. My $$ into livewell is atop of my priority list.

I have a Hobie heavy duty cart ("good one") I am about to weld because IMO it is an over priced POS. Now I am sure there are people with tons of trips and no problems, but I am not one of them. Keeper pin broke second trip and the cross bar above the axle completely came out............welds broke.

Moral of my post, you want to make one, more power to you. Sounds like the power wheels one is the way to go. Just cause you buy a good one doesn't mean it is going to be bullet proof. And bait is way more important.

[Jacurley45]

Originally Posted by maquinapescado

I have a Hobie heavy duty cart ("good one") I am about to weld because IMO it is an over priced POS. Now I am sure there are people with tons of trips and no problems, but I am not one of them. Keeper pin broke second trip and the cross bar above the axle completely came out............welds broke.





Moral of my post, you want to make one, more power to you. Sounds like the power wheels one is the way to go. Just cause you buy a good one doesn't mean it is going to be bullet proof. And bait is way more important.

Have you thought about using the collars instead of the pins? That might alleviate some issue that you had.

[Fish Taco]

Not for everybody, as it is pricey... but breaks down easily to fit inside the yak, and for hauling deeper-V hulls like the Malibu Stealth, or for the Hobie guys... this might be worth considering. Pretty much the best of both worlds if you ask me.

[wwkf]

Copper tubing is more rust resistant 1/2 I'd =5/8 o'd perfect for most wheel
Bearings

[Jacurley45]

Originally Posted by Fish Taco

Not for everybody, as it is pricey... but breaks down easily to fit inside the yak, and for hauling deeper-V hulls like the Malibu Stealth, or for the Hobie guys... this might be worth considering. Pretty much the best of both worlds if you ask me.

Now that's the polar opposite of what I am trying to do! LOL, my hourly wages are still in its teens so I am a long way from being able to spend some absurd amount of $ like that.

[Jacurley45]

Originally Posted by wwkf

Copper tubing is more rust resistant 1/2 I'd =5/8 o'd perfect for most wheel


Bearings

Agreed but it lacks the strength that I need it to have as for the cart. Especially if I'm using it to help someone else's PA 14 or other heavier kayaks.

[svendawg]

Originally Posted by Jacurley45

Agreed but it lacks the strength that I need it to have as for the cart. Especially if I'm using it to help someone else's PA 14 or other heavier kayaks.

I put a 1/2 steel axle from Home Depot inside the copper tubing to beef up my axle. It was able to carry PA-14's without any issue

[Jacurley45]

Originally Posted by svendawg

I put a 1/2 steel axle from Home Depot inside the copper tubing to beef up my axle. It was able to carry PA-14's without any issue

Not bad idea! Got your PM, I'm sending my reply.

[alanw]

You guys made a cart out of copper tubing rather than PVC? That should work nicely. Just as easy as PVC DIY and probably a lot stronger. Use some 1" heavy wall pipe and fittings and a little solder, steel axle, good to go.

[jorluivil]

Stop wasting your time and get a wheelez cart, you'll thank me later

[jruiz]

What you can do is heat up the axle real good with a heat gun or torch and push it through the hull. The plastic will seal perfectly around the axle. You'll never forget them at home and almost impossible to steal.