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Old 04-16-2012, 05:27 PM   #21
William Novotny
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roadx View Post
mono/fluoro sucks i use as little as possible. braid rules and that's that
I cant argue with that
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Old 04-17-2012, 10:39 AM   #22
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I started out using braid as a back under mono. I then tried it out on a few baitcasters I use in the bay with the reel filled up and 24" leader of fluoro. Loved it, the no stretch increased sensitivity greatly. The suble bites are not suble any more. I then put braid on my heavier bait rods that I use in LJ. Loved it there too. Kelp cutting, no stretch bootom fishing, great contact with a live bait. I still use straight mono on my jig rods. I might try throwing the surface iron on braid but with a softer rod or a light drag. Mike
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Old 04-17-2012, 09:28 PM   #23
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my baitrunner

Ok then I'm settled on putting braid on my shimano baitrunner but how should I do it and with what type of line?
Also how should i do the same on my penn jig master old school?
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Old 04-18-2012, 07:44 AM   #24
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Ok then I'm settled on putting braid on my shimano baitrunner but how should I do it and with what type of line?
Also how should i do the same on my penn jig master old school?
tons of information/articles written on how to spool a spinner with braid. some say to use mono or tape (electrical) on the spool to prevent the braid from slipping, but then jerry brown says it's unnecessary. to each their own.
wouldn't do it on the penn. the thin braid will get caught in the sideplates easily.
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Old 04-18-2012, 08:48 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by Yakin View Post
Ok then I'm settled on putting braid on my shimano baitrunner but how should I do it and with what type of line?
Also how should i do the same on my penn jig master old school?
I have 65 on my jm. Soak it and wind it on as tight as you can laying it across the spool uneven so when you pull on the drag it doesn't dig in.
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Old 04-18-2012, 08:50 AM   #26
Yakin
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I have 65 on my jm. Soak it and wind it on as tight as you can laying it across the spool uneven so when you pull on the drag it doesn't dig in.
I was going to have bps or some local tackle shop do it for me
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Old 04-18-2012, 11:34 AM   #27
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I didn't read through this whole post, so forgive me if these point have already been made.

1) Don't go for cheap braid like powerpro. It fades, fringes and has a lot of memory to it.

You want a nice limp line for spinning gear. It will prevent wind knots much better. Also, got a little heavier than you would think on the line for spinning gear, at least 40. Spinning gear is more prone to sharp angles when winding in and it will tend to cut in to itself under heavy drag pressure.

Don't make the same mistake I made, and think "ok that should be enough line" just to save some money. One day out on the charters in 300+ ft of water and I was uniknotting line on every reel I had. Do it once, do it right.

Also, a thicker line is less prone to cut into your skin. Since spinning rods bend with the line down, if you have a fat cow on and you're holding it by the handle able the reel, you run the risk of the line becoming taught enough to cut you. It's a problem the Shimano Terez and the Trevalas have.

Hope some of this helps. I also go straight braid. I only put floro leader on when I'm targeting WSB or have a dropper loop set up for bottom fish. Well, I don't use flouro on bottom fish because that stuffs expensive. 20lb mono does the trick
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Old 04-18-2012, 01:38 PM   #28
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Drake right now I'm running 20lb izor right now on my shimano baitrunner and also was goin to get a local shop to put braid on there for me any good type of brait I should go with since i don't know braid you said more expencive is way better
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Last edited by Yakin; 04-18-2012 at 05:35 PM.
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