Need a little help

[Nic D]

Ok I have a hobie bait tank and so does my dad. We both bought new yaks last year and now both switches are not working.

I've been really good about washing down after using and even applying some grease to the on/off shaft.

my question is I don't want to replace with a new hobie switch so can you please recommend a new switch?

thanks in advance.

[bus kid]

http://shop.vetcosurplus.com/catalog...oducts_id=8791

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/AS...G/karekapt-20/

although the ones Jim used seem to last awhile, I have a LKF tank and the switch still works like new.

[Lets_Fish]

Check out West Marine. Here is one like what should be installed on you Hobie bait tank.

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...classNum=11288

[Nic D]

@Bus kid:
those switches look nice, but don't look like they would be a good fit for the hobie tank?
I googled around a bit, but think there's a better option out there.

[bus kid]

Originally Posted by Tamarack Studios

@Bus kid:
those switches look nice, but don't look like they would be a good fit for the hobie tank?
I googled around a bit, but think there's a better option out there.

http://www.bigwatersedge.com/bwevb/s...ead.php?t=2703

maybe see if OEX still has the switch.
I have never seen a hobie livewell up close, post a close up photo of the switch, if you get a chance.

[Lets_Fish]

X2 what Larry (blackcloud9) said about checking the switch for corrosion. Very easy to replace if need to.

[Nic D]

per Larry's advise, I yanked the switch and the switch doesn't look too corroded. I have it now in some vinegar. I also made a new connection with the two wires inside the tank.

fingers crossed.

[blackcloud9]

Could be just corrosion on the wiring inside the tank if its exposed at all to
salt water. Take it back to where you bought it, or, to Fastlane Kayaks
on Mission Bay and you will get help with a new switch. Talk to Jared or
Ron.

You can unscrew the switch from outside and remove for replacement if
necessary -- I made sure to marine goop every piece of wiring and metal
inside the tank, especially around all the connections.

The Hobie switch will work forever as long as it is protected from the salt
appropriately ...

Tight Lines!
Larry

[steveooo]

http://www.kayakfishingsupplies.com/...-Switch/Detail

http://www.kayakfishingsupplies.com/...-Switch/Detail

http://www.kayakfishingsupplies.com/...-Switch/Detail

I've had this on bait tanks for years. I think Andy has 'em in stock.

[THE DARKHORSE]

Disclaimer: I'm not the type to rinse my gear after every use.


And from that perspective---the switch is always the first thing to go. I'll just have to plead the fifth on how many I've gone through . I'm sure I'll get fired for this, but honestly, I wouldn't suggest replacing the same switch.

West Marine carries the same stock switch (for $10) and a switch that's superior (for $20). Well, it's superior in the task of keeping water out and preventing corrosion. The superior switch has a rubber cap that screws in over the switch itself (it's grey in color and looks like a nipple ). You should find it within a couple feet of the stock switch.

If you really, really, really get sick of replacing the switch---cut out the switch entirely. Go straight from pump to battery.

[Nic D]

Thanks Josh, ya I definitely don't want to use the same stock switch. is this the switch you were referring to?

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...classNum=11288

[Iceman]

I have replaced a couple stock Hobie tank switches with our sealed toggle and boot that seem to be holding up well.

[WahooUSMA]

Originally Posted by Iceman

I have replaced a couple stock Hobie tank switches with our sealed toggle and boot that seem to be holding up well.

Andy replaced mine, haven't had a problem since.....

[dsafety]

There are a couple weak links in the stock switch. Mine failed after less than a year, (replaced by Hobie under warranty). When I removed the old switch I discovered that the supposedly sealed wire nut connection inside the tank was severely corroded. I replaced that before replacing the switch and got the thing to work intermittently.

The bigger problem is that while the part of the switch that lives inside the tank is well sealed, the push-pull shaft that is attached to the nob is not. Over time salt water probably gets in to the switch itself and eventually causes a failure. I lubed the shaft on the new switch with dielectric grease in hopes that the grease would provide some sort of a water seal. An occasional squirt of WD 40 would also probably be helpful.

The guys at Hobie told me that a redesign is in the works but would not give any details. If they were asking my advice on what to do, I would recommend scrapping the push pull switch, which is easy to accidentally turn off. A sealed twist or plunger switch would be a better way to go. I would also lobby for moving the switch location to some place that is less likely to be bumped and switched off while reaching back for a rod.

Bob