BAIT TANK ? - Kayak Fishing Adventures on Big Water’s Edge

ZUMAN · 03-05-2012, 09:14 PM

Hey guys I have a couple bait tank ?'s

I think I've decided to do a thru scupper,
To avoid any drag with my ride 135.

1:I think i need a "check valve"to stop the water from flowing out when the pump is off?And if so,where in the line is it attached??

2:Priming,will I always have to prime the pump with this set up.Or is there another valve or something that will eliminate this???

Thanks for any tips or hints......................Ron

thefisher · 03-05-2012, 10:43 PM

I did this method priming bulb is a must depending how low the scupper sits. The check valve is useless because of the priming bulb one way.

Caffeind · 03-05-2012, 10:44 PM

Check out the Share Your Innovations sticky at the top. There are a few good ideas for both of your issues there. Good luck.

jorluivil · 03-05-2012, 11:01 PM

I believe you will only need a check valve if you are using a timer, other than that no need for it because your pump will run continously. The check valave should be placed anywhere after the pump and not before.

MWC359 · 03-06-2012, 06:55 AM

If you do use a check valve I used a check valve from home depot in the sprinkler department it cost $7.00. You can see it on my tank under spare parts bait tank. Works great. I am also going to make mine through the scupper hole. I have a hobie PA and it creates a noticable amount of drag having the pump hang over the side. The other option I was thinking about was to plumb the pump so it runs directly off the stern, securing the hose to the rear handle. Could be a problem clearing it if it got clogged though. Wont know till I try it.....im just sayin

ZUMAN · 03-06-2012, 10:44 AM

Thanks for the replies.
Had to google"primer bulb"

But I think I got it!!!!!

GregAndrew · 03-06-2012, 04:31 PM

The primer bulb works great for easy priming of the pump. Here is how I have mine set up.

I used a sink strainer (works wonders for keeping debris and eel grass out, and not getting stopped up) Gooped to a piece of a threaded pvc connector at the bottom of the pump. The largest primer bulb I could find was 3/8 inch and was the trickiest part of the operation. I had to get the crimped on ring off of either end and replace it with the hose clamps. Once you have the crimped connectors off, you can back out the inserts to allow you to attach the larger hose. But I had to modify mine cause it had a raised portion that the bulb butted up against when inserted (which was larger than the inside diameter of the hose). A sander or rasp will take care of it pretty quick. Then you just have to stagger the hose clamp over both the hose and the end of the bulb before you tighten it.

03-05-2012, 09:14 PM	#1
ZUMAN Member Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Calabasas Posts: 79	BAIT TANK ? Hey guys I have a couple bait tank ?'s I think I've decided to do a thru scupper, To avoid any drag with my ride 135. 1:I think i need a "check valve"to stop the water from flowing out when the pump is off?And if so,where in the line is it attached?? 2:Priming,will I always have to prime the pump with this set up.Or is there another valve or something that will eliminate this??? Thanks for any tips or hints......................Ron

03-05-2012, 11:01 PM	#4
jorluivil Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2010 Posts: 6,856	I believe you will only need a check valve if you are using a timer, other than that no need for it because your pump will run continously. The check valave should be placed anywhere after the pump and not before. __________________ www.facebook.com/Teamsewer

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03-05-2012, 10:43 PM	#2
thefisher Member Join Date: Sep 2011 Posts: 36	I did this method priming bulb is a must depending how low the scupper sits. The check valve is useless because of the priming bulb one way.

03-05-2012, 10:44 PM	#3
Caffeind Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: OC Posts: 146	Check out the Share Your Innovations sticky at the top. There are a few good ideas for both of your issues there. Good luck.

03-06-2012, 06:55 AM	#5
MWC359 Member Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Corona Ca. Posts: 58	If you do use a check valve I used a check valve from home depot in the sprinkler department it cost $7.00. You can see it on my tank under spare parts bait tank. Works great. I am also going to make mine through the scupper hole. I have a hobie PA and it creates a noticable amount of drag having the pump hang over the side. The other option I was thinking about was to plumb the pump so it runs directly off the stern, securing the hose to the rear handle. Could be a problem clearing it if it got clogged though. Wont know till I try it.....im just sayin

03-06-2012, 10:44 AM	#6
ZUMAN Member Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Calabasas Posts: 79	Thanks for the replies. Had to google"primer bulb" But I think I got it!!!!!

03-06-2012, 04:31 PM	#7
GregAndrew Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Posts: 2,384	The primer bulb works great for easy priming of the pump. Here is how I have mine set up. I used a sink strainer (works wonders for keeping debris and eel grass out, and not getting stopped up) Gooped to a piece of a threaded pvc connector at the bottom of the pump. The largest primer bulb I could find was 3/8 inch and was the trickiest part of the operation. I had to get the crimped on ring off of either end and replace it with the hose clamps. Once you have the crimped connectors off, you can back out the inserts to allow you to attach the larger hose. But I had to modify mine cause it had a raised portion that the bulb butted up against when inserted (which was larger than the inside diameter of the hose). A sander or rasp will take care of it pretty quick. Then you just have to stagger the hose clamp over both the hose and the end of the bulb before you tighten it.