Revo dilemma

[mrJB]

The PVC is 1 1/2" which must be slotted or ground down to fit snugly.
1 1/4" is too loose for my liking.

The length is personal preference and would depend on your rod's butt length, and also how close you want the end of the holder to be by your side.

[Vikingj]

I made one of Bob's PVC crossbar rod holder extensions that fit into the revo rod holders. Thanks for sharing!
see http://www.bigwatersedge.com/bwevb/s...ead.php?t=3583

It worked well but I never used the left side since I had a lft front mounted rod holder and the baitbarge guy had trouble accessing my bait tank.

JB let me use his single arm rod holder (seen above) and I really love using it (don't expect to get it back, John!). It's more simple, takes less space, easy to watch rod tip, and is more accessible.

Wayne

[mrJB]

Of course it yours.... now about your secret hali-holes....

[RedSledTeam]

MrJB,
can you share with us how you flared the pvc pipe?

[lterrero]

Originally Posted by RedSledTeam

MrJB,
can you share with us how you flared the pvc pipe?

Ed, I use a heat gun & a glass bottle neck. If you got any question, fell free to pm.

[mrJB]

Heat gun and a 2" trailer ball...

[dsafety]

Originally Posted by mrJB

Heat gun and a 2" trailer ball...

I was wondering about the flared end as well. What a great idea. I'm off to the workshop to make some modifications.

Bob

[dsafety]

Originally Posted by mrJB

The PVC is 1 1/2" which must be slotted or ground down to fit snugly.
1 1/4" is too loose for my liking.

Add a few wraps of Gorilla Tape and the 1 1/4" pipe works perfectly.

Bob

[StinkyMatt]

Made my rod holders today, the simplest, most useful thing I did to my kayak. Thanks so much for this post.

Do not go too short on the rod holder pipes, try and try twice.

Buy the black pipe at Home Depot.

Used a plastic Perrier bottle to flare the ends.

I used the 1.5in pipe. It is wider and can accomodate a big wide rod blank easier. There is a large amount of material you need to sand/ grind away from the 1.5 pipes, use very coarse paper on your sander (50 or 60) then finish with something finer.

Make sure you sand the PVC if you plan on paining it. Flat black came our bitchin!

[Adam12]

Hey JB would you rather cut the slots in the pipe or sand it down?

[yakrider]

thank you everyone for the replies...
just gonna have ot get the now boat and contemplate...
and as for the thru hull TX...still kinda freakin' out about cutting a hole in the bottom of a brand new boat...I suppose I'll get over it!

yesterday, the surf was 3-4 feet with a 6-7 second interval...
damn near impossible to make it in paddling the egg...(Outback)
after getting tossed, ass over teakettle, while upside down under water...
I made the discision to go ahead and get the Revo...
I'll most likeley go get it when the shop opens up!
it's time!
Merry Christmas to me!

keep the suggestions comming...

[mrJB]

Adam -

Hard to say. Slotting the bottom portion (w/relief holes) is much easier but not as clean looking since some of the slot will remain above the existing Hobie holder due to lack of compression where the slot ends.

Grinding down the bottom section of the tube makes for a better looking holder but is labor intensive. Also doesn't leave a whole lot of wall thickness.

Not sure which would be stronger - need some testing or I'd just be guessing.

A personal choice. I made the slotted version first and knew I would work on some improvements, however minor. The next version will use ABS pipe which will eliminate painting and have the ability to float (ABS floats, PVC sinks). My $.02 - make a slotted version first and make a more permanent version when you figure out exactly what you want. The tubing is cheap...

Almost forgot - I use these little spring loaded rope locks for the adjustable swing cord, about 59 cents or so for two at Walmart in the camping section. Still working after months and hasn't rusted yet.

Something to do while we're all getting "cabin fever" from the rain. Time to rebuild a few reels...

[fongman]

Originally Posted by mrJB

Adam -

Hard to say. Slotting the bottom portion (w/relief holes) is much easier but not as clean looking since some of the slot will remain above the existing Hobie holder due to lack of compression where the slot ends.

Grinding down the bottom section of the tube makes for a better looking holder but is labor intensive. Also doesn't leave a whole lot of wall thickness.

Why not use 1.25" tube connected to a 1.25" x 1.5" reducer fitting, then connect the 1.5" T fitting? Use something like corktape to build up the 1.25" tube so that it fits snug in the builtin rodholder. You'll save time and you won't lose any strength. Plus, it will only cost about a couple of bucks.

[MVC]

I made this about 1 year ago, saw it at a baytubers tournament. I use 1/4 tubing to go into the kayak connected to a 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 coupler and the rest of the tubing is 1 1/2. No sanding or cutting required and the coupler fits perfectly into the notch at the top of the pole hoder in the revo. If you wanted a tighter fit, you could add cork or something.