Battery box plug

[jorluivil]

I had a the same issue so here's what I did.

1. cut old wire off
2. strip off outer cover(strip off just a little more than you'll need)
3. flux both negative and positive strands thoroughly
4. solder each wire, make sure the solder gets inside the strands
5. measure each wires diameter making sure that each fits inside its respective hole, wire should have a snug fit
6. measure and cut off excess wire
7. if you have one insert outer protective cover over wire/cable
8. loosen screw on plug, do not loosen to much or they will come off
9. inside wires in their respective holes and tighten screw

When you tighten the screw it will dig itself into the solder and create a dimple as its tighhtened. The dimple will hold the wire in place and keep it from slipping out.

I went one step further and added marine goop to each hole where the wires fit and also gooped the section where the protective cover slips over the wire/cable. I insert and remove my plug every trip, its been almost a year since I did this and I have not had any issue to date.

[sammysamsam]

Originally Posted by jorluivil

I had a the same issue so here's what I did.

1. cut old wire off
2. strip off outer cover(strip off just a little more than you'll need)
3. flux both negative and positive strands thoroughly
4. solder each wire, make sure the solder gets inside the strands
5. measure each wires diameter making sure that each fits inside its respective hole, wire should have a snug fit
6. measure and cut off excess wire
7. if you have one insert outer protective cover over wire/cable
8. loosen screw on plug, do not loosen to much or they will come off
9. inside wires in their respective holes and tighten screw

When you tighten the screw it will dig itself into the solder and create a dimple as its tighhtened. The dimple will hold the wire in place and keep it from slipping out.

I went one step further and added marine goop to each hole where the wires fit and also gooped the section where the protective cover slips over the wire/cable. I insert and remove my plug every trip, its been almost a year since I did this and I have not had any issue to date.

So essentially you are just adding solder to the wire so the screw can dig into the wire, correct?

Originally Posted by GregAndrew

I prefer these outside the battery box.
http://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-47965-...271318&sr=1-11
I just drill 2 small holes in the box for the wires and goop them up.

I think the terminals are aluminum. I also have them permanently attached to my batteries so I don't have to mess around with the weak battery terminals.

Are these weatherproof?

[Iceman]

Are these weatherproof?

weather proof.......yes, these are designed for trailer wire rigging. I sell these.

[jorluivil]

Originally Posted by sammysamsam

So essentially you are just adding solder to the wire so the screw can dig into the wire, correct?

In a word: Yes.

In a few words: You're just turning stranded wire into solid wire. Since the solder is still somewhat flexible it will allow the screw tip to embed itself and create this dimple, or, lock.

[wiseguy]

X2 on the ones Greg suggested. I've used those ever since I've started kayaking in 2004 and they have always held up to the salt. What I do to prevent corrosion is put dialectric grease on them every now and then and they stay clean!

[sammysamsam]

Thanks everyone for the suggestions. That is exactly what i needed to get constant power to my equipment.

Now if i can find a way to secure my battery boxes so it doesnt move around....

[dsafety]

I currently use both of the connectors suggested by Greg and Let's Fish. Both work well but the one the Let's Fish suggested is just about bullet proof. It is the same one that Hobie uses on their bait tank. This connector is expensive and hard to find. There is an industrial hardware supply off Miramar Rd. that has this connector in stock most of the time.

The trailer connector is almost as good and only costs a couple bucks at Pep Boys. A bit of dielectric grease slows down the inevitable corrosion.

Bob

[buttchaser]

Try Double sided Velcro tape to keep the box in place

[sammysamsam]

Originally Posted by buttchaser

Try Double sided Velcro tape to keep the box in place

wont the water get to the glue and come off?

[sammysamsam]

Originally Posted by dsafety

I currently use both of the connectors suggested by Greg and Let's Fish. Both work well but the one the Let's Fish suggested is just about bullet proof. It is the same one that Hobie uses on their bait tank. This connector is expensive and hard to find. There is an industrial hardware supply off Miramar Rd. that has this connector in stock most of the time.

The trailer connector is almost as good and only costs a couple bucks at Pep Boys. A bit of dielectric grease slows down the inevitable corrosion.

Bob

that one looks like it will give me the least amount of problems. that link provided at that auto place sells them for about 4 bucks with free shipping.

[Lets_Fish]

Originally Posted by dsafety

This connector is expensive and hard to find. There is an industrial hardware supply off Miramar Rd. that has this connector in stock most of the time. Bob

Bob, do you know how much they cost at the hardware supply you mentioned? The link I provided sells them for $4-$5 a pair which is not much more than the "trailer" connection. You can also purchase replacement "tips" for repairs if need be (i.e. replacement of wires). The link I provided has free shipping and they do ship fast. I have purchased all of my additional connectors from them.

Here is the link once more:http://www.performanceplusconnection...2033729g2oycnn
& their ebay link:http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Weath...#ht_2191wt_940

Originally Posted by buttchaser
Try Double sided Velcro tape to keep the box in place

Originally Posted by Sammysamsam
wont the water get to the glue and come off?

You can always epoxy the velcro to the hull.

Also note that both types of connectors are "weather proof" not "WATER PROOF". Don't confuse the two.

[467echo]

What I find causing more corrosion than anything is when you forget to unplug the battery after each use. Leaving the battery hooked up really seems to speed up the corrosion process. Now that I unplug after each use and a little dielectric grease every now and then I have not had any problems. Which means next time out everything will fail

[dsafety]

Originally Posted by Lets_Fish

Bob, do you know how much they cost at the hardware supply you mentioned? .

I have not been to this place in a while. It is called Marshalls, BTW. You could call them and check the price. I think it is higher than what you found online. Keep in mind that there are three components, the case and both male and female pins, all sold separately.

As for securing your battery box to the hull, Velcro works fine for lightweight batteries but if you use one of the big ones, you will probably find that the Velcro will not hold.

I ended up gooping a couple pad-eyes to the hull on either side of the case and running a webbing strap through the eyes and over the battery box. It has held everything in place for a few years without a problem.

Bob

[sammysamsam]

Originally Posted by Lets_Fish

Bob, do you know how much they cost at the hardware supply you mentioned? The link I provided sells them for $4-$5 a pair which is not much more than the "trailer" connection. You can also purchase replacement "tips" for repairs if need be (i.e. replacement of wires). The link I provided has free shipping and they do ship fast. I have purchased all of my additional connectors from them.

Here is the link once more:http://www.performanceplusconnection...2033729g2oycnn
& their ebay link:http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Weath...#ht_2191wt_940



You can always epoxy the velcro to the hull.

Also note that both types of connectors are "weather proof" not "WATER PROOF". Don't confuse the two.

Not sure if anyone else is having problems ordering from them but i had to use the ebay link since it seems there is a problem ordering through their website.