In the hull bait pump rigging x-13

[Fiskadoro]

Installed my bait pump so I thought I'd share:


First the constraints. I wanted a pump that creates little drag, is self priming, that I can adjust the flow on, that has an accessible screen that I can clean while on the water, and that I can easily remove to troubleshoot and remove to soak in freshwater after the trips.

Here's the basic components.


That's a 2" inch rubber pipe cap from Home depot. A Rule 360 bilge pump, and a modified Marelon 3/4 thru-hull fitting.

I modify all three. First I drill a 3/4 inche hole in the center of the cap and sand the end smooth on a belt sander.

I then take the Marelon (glass fibered nylon) through hull...


chuck it in my lathe reduce the height of the exterior flange end sharpen its edge and then cut in an inset for the perforated aluminum screen. I then take it out of the lathe and tighten the nut down to the flange on top of a 1/4 inch spacer, I then cut the nut and shaft off with a bandsaw leaving only the 3/8 threaded washer end.

What your seeing in the pic is the flange with 5/8 of it's shaft and threads underneath it with the screen in place and the threaded washer next to it.

I use glass reinforced Marelon because it's strong, I would not try this with plastic versions or straight nylon. because they can break if you make them too thin.

I go with rule pumps because the are the size I need and the 360 bilge is relatively cheap. About 12 bucks online. I also have had the plastic cases on several atwoods crack and leak. Rules have steel shafts that rust and eventually cause the pump to fail do to friction but they use better plastic then atwood that doesn't crack. Just a judgment call but personally I'd rather have a pump that overheats and dies due to a bad shaft eventually then one that cracks and fills my yak with water.

I take the pump and heat the barbed nozzle outlet with a heat gun, until it's malleable then slide on a PVC shutoff valve from Home depot. Once it cools I cover the outlet barbs with 5200 to seal it and slide the valve back on the outlet, and lock it in place with a set screw. The shut off valve allows me to control the flow or shut off the flow from the pump completely if I get a leak below the water line in the PVC tank feed line.



I then drilled a 3/4 hole in the hull where it's in easy reach from my seat both inside and outside. Mount the flange on the outside coating the contact surfaces with 5200, slide the 2 inch cap on the shaft inside turned upside down, start the washer on the shaft and turn it down tight by rotating the cap.



To install the pump you just need to put it in the cap flange and tighten the hose clamp to seal the cap to the housing of the pump like tightening a radiator hose.



The advantages are: it's easy and quick to remove and put back in but also that since there is no contact from the actual pump to the hull, it floats on a cushion of the rubber cap and it's also very quite.

Here's what it looks like on the outside under the hull.



The idea here with the flush screen is if it clogs I can just reach down under the yak and wipe it clean with my hand.

As you can see it's right across from my transducer as I want them both within arms reach.



I do not use standard hoses or clamps but instead use PVC water purification and Ice maker line and the quick disconnects that they make for it. Once again you can just get this stuff from home depot.

The advantage here is that I can easily remove the pump assembly by disconnecting it at the quick connect without removing the line.

Since the components are nylon and stainless and since it's made for water purification systems and takes up to 60 PSI, there is usually no maintenance or leakage issues with the setup, or for that matter clamps that you have to tighten to get a good seal. Just stick the tube in the fitting and your done.

I use the same connection at the rear at the tank so I can easily take the tank in and out.




It makes for a nice clean setup.





So there you have it....

Jim

[Holy Mackerel]

Nice job, looks clean! How is the rattle/buzz factor from inside the hull?

chris

[Fiskadoro]

Originally Posted by Holy Mackerel

Nice job, looks clean! How is the rattle/buzz factor from inside the hull?

chris

The 2 inch rubber fitting absorbs the vibration so it does not really buzz like pumps that are attached directly to the hull... So... I guess no buzz, is a good buzz

Jim

[MarkT]

Originally Posted by Jim Day

I guess no buzz, is a good buzz

Jim

Doesn't sound like JD... if it weren't for the funny hat in the pictures I'd assume you're an imposter.

[TypeSH]

Nice job on the clean set up.
Thanks for the guide.

[j mo]

Is a scupper mount possible for the pump. Set up is clean

[Fiskadoro]

Originally Posted by j mo

Is a scupper mount possible for the pump. Set up is clean

You can't use it in a scupper like that because the pump body has to be below the water line to self prime. I use a different system for through the scupper installs and it's much more complicated.

Jim