DIY kayak lift assist? Hullavator?

[dorado123]

I would use roller saddle for stealth 14 and J carrier for X13 that's how I did for my cobra fish and dive(36in wide about same as Stealth) and X13 for my ford explorer

[Stuck20]

I just got a Yakima Showdown which is their new kayak load assist much like the Hullavator. I think the gas struts in the Hullavator help with 40lbs or so when lifting.
I, too, needed an option to load two kayaks at times. I put my Prowler Big Game 2 in the Showdown and use J-cradles on the opposite side of the crossbars. I can lift my frenzy or prowler up into the cradles by myself though so that isn't an issue for me. If your crossbars are 66" or wider I think you can use two Showdown units but that gets expensive (mine was $350 on amazon in addition to the roof rack).

[Harry Hill]

I finally went the trailer route. It was killing me lifting the Pro2T on top of my truck roof rack. I could put one end on a mat and lift the other end and then push it up but it was a job. I kept coming up with different assists but I decided it was just too much work and after the boat ramp at Dana I decided I couldn't keep doing it that way. The trailer makes loading and unloading much easier but parking more difficult.

[DanaPT]

Those gas struts on the hullivator really help. I have an suv, way too high to get kayak on/off by myself.


I am a fan of the hullivator. I've seen used sell between $350 and 400. Still not cheap, especially if you have two kayaks.

If you can design and kick them out like rod leashes or bamboo gaffs... then you may have something!

[oredith]

after looking the loader types some more, I came to the conclusion that making a complicated contraption for side load is probably a net loss on the cost:benefit front. I think instead, I'll try to load from the back hatch, and maybe extend the yakima bars if needed.

this is the current thinking:

[Hunters Pa]

After loading a PA14 on top of my GMC Envoy (about 7 ft height on racks)and hurting my Achilles I carpeted a couple 2x4s and added a ladder hook to each so I could slide the kayak up easier by myself. It helps a lot, but I ended up getting a trailer for the PA.

I think the hitch-mounted Tbar would be a good bet. You could use the rollers to get the first yak loaded and then flip it into the J racks.

[oredith]

Now i just need to clear enough of the garage out to get my welder out, and then reclaim my CO^2 tank from my kegerator.

I will say this. it warms my heart to know that i'm not the only one that struggles with manhandling the kayaks..

[kirkdavis]

Originally Posted by oredith

after looking the loader types some more, I came to the conclusion that making a complicated contraption for side load is probably a net loss on the cost:benefit front. I think instead, I'll try to load from the back hatch, and maybe extend the yakima bars if needed.

this is the current thinking:

I made one similar to the Rhino T-load hitch mount, and I like it for my outback onto a CR-V. It also works for two yaks with J hooks, but not quite as easy. Two differences from your design that you might consider. Instead of rollers, make the t bar wider and put a wide cargo strap across to nest the yak. Then you can slide it to either side for loading onto J hooks. Also, like the Rhino, I can lower the T-bar to about 45 degrees to make it much easier to get the nose of the kayak onto the strap. Then as you push the kayak up, the T-bar moves up so the yak clears the roof. It saves on the high up work. If you need I can send a pic of mine later. Good luck.

[oredith]

Originally Posted by kirkdavis

I made one similar to the Rhino T-load hitch mount, and I like it for my outback onto a CR-V. It also works for two yaks with J hooks, but not quite as easy. Two differences from your design that you might consider. Instead of rollers, make the t bar wider and put a wide cargo strap across to nest the yak. Then you can slide it to either side for loading onto J hooks. Also, like the Rhino, I can lower the T-bar to about 45 degrees to make it much easier to get the nose of the kayak onto the strap. Then as you push the kayak up, the T-bar moves up so the yak clears the roof. It saves on the high up work. If you need I can send a pic of mine later. Good luck.

I'd love to see how your's is set up.

i actually had not seen the Rhino T-load setup, but that give me better ideas!