Share Your Innovations

[pbb]

Originally Posted by Zfish03

Good call, I was kinda worried about that. I've been lucky so far. I took it to the bay through a bunch of eel grass. My pump was fine but my buddy's pump got clogged. Only used it once in LJ, no issue yet. I was thinking about making a some larger holes in the mesh and hopefully smaller stuff can get through. Thanks for the response, I'll keep testing idea's as well

Seems like blocked intake is easier to resolve than clogged pump.

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[jorluivil]

Originally Posted by pbb

Seems like blocked intake is easier to resolve than clogged pump.

Sent from my ADR6350 using Tapatalk 2

If small debris is jammed up against the mesh how are you going to get it out?

[pbb]

Originally Posted by jorluivil

If small debris is jammed up against the mesh how are you going to get it out?

Well, I could try removing the intake assembly from the livewell and blowing back through it, and shake it underwater. Worst case I would need to take the end off.

Hell, the whole intake assemblies cost less than $8. You could carry two if it was giving you a lot of trouble.

Although I agree that if you are going to put mesh over the intake, then the approach of putting it at the very front/outside, rather than an inch inside would probably be less likely to get blocked and easier to clean, although more work to install.

One could probably use something like the stainless steel drain strainer at the bottom of the scupper, rather than in the intake.

Maybe this is not really necessary. Are you suggesting that if the intake gets blocked it will burn out the pump? Otherwise, it does seem better to be safe than sorry.

[dsafety]

Originally Posted by pbb

Well, I could try removing the intake assembly from the livewell and blowing back through it, and shake it underwater. Worst case I would need to take the end off.

Hell, the whole intake assemblies cost less than $8. You could carry two if it was giving you a lot of trouble.

Although I agree that if you are going to put mesh over the intake, then the approach of putting it at the very front/outside, rather than an inch inside would probably be less likely to get blocked and easier to clean, although more work to install.

One could probably use something like the stainless steel drain strainer at the bottom of the scupper, rather than in the intake.

Maybe this is not really necessary. Are you suggesting that if the intake gets blocked it will burn out the pump? Otherwise, it does seem better to be safe than sorry.

My approach is much simpler. Yes the screens get plugged up and there is not much you can do to prevent this. Rather than try to prevent this problem, I have discovered an easy and quick way to unplug a blockage.

I keep a little piece of plastic pipe in my tank that easily fits into the intake hose inside my tank, (see photo).
P1020503.jpg
Whenever something gets plugged up, I simply insert the pipe in the hose and blow some air through the system. If you need to quickly prime the pump, just suck a little water back and you are good to go.

Bob

[DanaPT]

Originally Posted by pbb

Seems like blocked intake is easier to resolve than clogged pump.

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The nylon lint traps are the way to go. about $2 for two and a zip tie. no fuss, no worries, and more importantly no clogs.

Another adjustment for the bait tank is an extension to the out-flow. This allows the tank to fill an additional 1-2 inches. I stow it in the bait tank. When I need more water in the tank I slide it on.

[RockyRaab]

After fishing, I generally pull down to the end of the ramp rather than risk a heart attack pulling my loaded PA14 back to the lot. The PA slides easily onto my roof rack -- TOO easily. On a steeper than usual ramp once, it almost slid all the way off, onto my hood and then nosefirst onto the ramp. I also needed a way to protect the paint on my Highlander's spoiler. Here are my two solutions:

To protect the spoiler and help keep the PA from sliding off sideways, I glued ans screwed two short pieces of scrap 2x2 to an old cutting board (plywood woul work as well) and then bent two strips of steel strapping into squared-off hooks to slip around the rear crossbar. Here's that innovation: (Excuse the pre-dawn lighting)



Then, to keep the kayak from moving forward - or sideways in crosswinds - I cut another piece of wood into a tapered shape to loosely match the mirage drive well and bolted it to the front crossbar.



Now, I can rest the nose of the PA between the two cutting board guide rails, lift the stern and simply slide the 'yak forward until the drive hole drops onto the front safety block.

I then remove the cutting board, tie the 'yak down with straps and two front ropes.



Voila! That PA isn't going anywhere!

[DanaPT]

a picture's worth 1000 words.

[CheapPelican]

Originally Posted by RockyRaab

To protect the spoiler and help keep the PA from sliding off sideways, I glued ans screwed two short pieces of scrap 2x2 to an old cutting board (plywood woul work as well) and then bent two strips of steel strapping into squared-off hooks to slip around the rear crossbar. Here's that innovation: (Excuse the pre-dawn lighting)

Does the cutting board lay flat against the roof and spoiler distrubituing the weight, or is there a block under the front of the board to keep the weight off of the spoiler?