HDPE Battery tray for OEX battery box - Kayak Fishing Adventures on Big Water’s Edge

Lipripper92592 · 01-11-2013, 03:57 PM

I thought I saw a post on hear from someone who had made something similar to this, but I can't seem to find it on here lately. So the credit goes to some unsung hero on this site. I grabbed a few HDPE cutting boards from wally world (walmart) and put together a lock box for my battery box from OEX. It's fastened below the deck with SS hardware and hold my battery box nice and tight, keeping it from sliding around below deck. It took three cutting boards at 6 dollars a pop, and the lock is a mailbox lock from Home Depot.

IMG_0561 by lipripper1, on Flickr

IMG_0562 by lipripper1, on Flickr

IMG_0560 by lipripper1, on Flickr

IMG_0564 by lipripper1, on Flickr

IMG_0566 by lipripper1, on Flickr

I have this mounted in a Trident 15, but a similar design could be used in most kayaks. Another option is to mount the box in the bow for weight distribution, but since I'm using LIPO batteries, weight is not an issue for me presently.
Next project is to build some rod holders that attach to the lower portion of this box and extend back under the rod pod to keep those from bouncing around during surf launches.

steveooo · 01-11-2013, 04:11 PM

Super clean, I like it!

ful-rac · 01-11-2013, 04:32 PM

I like it nice job! But....does it have to have a lock and key? Bungee would work, and would never rust...never forget the key....looks nice though!

Lipripper92592 · 01-11-2013, 06:09 PM

It doesn't have to have the lock. That lock was just an easy intall. If I made another one I would have epoxied magnets in the door and wall to keep it closed. For some reason I have something against bungees'.....don't know what it is....but dang do I hate them. A bungee screwed inside and to the door would still be clean, and rust free. If the lock rusts up, it will be quickly removed and replaced with magnets. Thank you for the compliments.

jorluivil · 01-11-2013, 06:49 PM

Super clean install!

Are the corners supported by anything other than some screws? Just wondering how long it will be before the weight of battery combined with the pounding of the bow causes it to separate. Other than that it looks good, I'm thinking about making one myself.

Lipripper92592 · 01-12-2013, 09:03 AM

The screws used in the walls are #6x 1" SS panhard screws x 4 per side, counter sunk, so they are pretty deep. With a heavy lead acid battery, it should hold up fine. 1/4 SS bolts nylon insert nut, neoprene and SS washer fastening it to the deck. If you wanted a more robust box, use 1/2 HDPE, you could sink some pretty hefty screws or bolts threw that. IF my shop was not a mess right now, I would redo this on the router table using 1/2 HDPE and dove tail to hold the box together.

01-11-2013, 03:57 PM	#1
Lipripper92592 Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2012 Posts: 516	HDPE Battery tray for OEX battery box I thought I saw a post on hear from someone who had made something similar to this, but I can't seem to find it on here lately. So the credit goes to some unsung hero on this site. I grabbed a few HDPE cutting boards from wally world (walmart) and put together a lock box for my battery box from OEX. It's fastened below the deck with SS hardware and hold my battery box nice and tight, keeping it from sliding around below deck. It took three cutting boards at 6 dollars a pop, and the lock is a mailbox lock from Home Depot. IMG_0561 by lipripper1, on Flickr IMG_0562 by lipripper1, on Flickr IMG_0560 by lipripper1, on Flickr IMG_0564 by lipripper1, on Flickr IMG_0566 by lipripper1, on Flickr I have this mounted in a Trident 15, but a similar design could be used in most kayaks. Another option is to mount the box in the bow for weight distribution, but since I'm using LIPO batteries, weight is not an issue for me presently. Next project is to build some rod holders that attach to the lower portion of this box and extend back under the rod pod to keep those from bouncing around during surf launches.

01-11-2013, 04:32 PM	#3
ful-rac Emperor Join Date: May 2009 Location: Buena Park Posts: 3,649	I like it nice job! But....does it have to have a lock and key? Bungee would work, and would never rust...never forget the key....looks nice though! __________________ There's nothing colder than yesterday's hotdog.

01-11-2013, 06:49 PM	#5
jorluivil Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2010 Posts: 6,856	Super clean install! Are the corners supported by anything other than some screws? Just wondering how long it will be before the weight of battery combined with the pounding of the bow causes it to separate. Other than that it looks good, I'm thinking about making one myself. __________________ www.facebook.com/Teamsewer

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01-11-2013, 04:11 PM	#2
steveooo Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2005 Posts: 1,921	Super clean, I like it!

01-11-2013, 06:09 PM	#4
Lipripper92592 Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2012 Posts: 516	It doesn't have to have the lock. That lock was just an easy intall. If I made another one I would have epoxied magnets in the door and wall to keep it closed. For some reason I have something against bungees'.....don't know what it is....but dang do I hate them. A bungee screwed inside and to the door would still be clean, and rust free. If the lock rusts up, it will be quickly removed and replaced with magnets. Thank you for the compliments.

01-12-2013, 09:03 AM	#6
Lipripper92592 Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2012 Posts: 516	The screws used in the walls are #6x 1" SS panhard screws x 4 per side, counter sunk, so they are pretty deep. With a heavy lead acid battery, it should hold up fine. 1/4 SS bolts nylon insert nut, neoprene and SS washer fastening it to the deck. If you wanted a more robust box, use 1/2 HDPE, you could sink some pretty hefty screws or bolts threw that. IF my shop was not a mess right now, I would redo this on the router table using 1/2 HDPE and dove tail to hold the box together.