Electric bilge and a Hobie PA....more questions

[BrokeLoser]

Sorry guys...It's like I'm brand new at this again...I can't wait to rig this thing to the hilt.
I want to install a bilge system in my new PA. I found this thread: http://www.bigwatersedge.com/bwevb/s...ead.php?t=7186
Which has a lot of good information but is lacking some specific information...where can I find the check valve mentioned in the thread? Where can I find the 'outlet' fitting and how big a hole needs to be drilled in my yak to accommodate it?

I'm not 100% decided on this particular install...I'm all ears if you have a better / different way and or advice.

[wbrewski]

Ckeck the online store here on BWE they have everything you will need.

[ful-rac]

The check valve can be found at west marine or online, its a whale inline 3/4" check valve. The outlet fitting you can get at west marine also which is again 3/4", you need to drill a 1" hole for that.

By the way are you really taking on so much water it justifies a pump? I have a PA too and it does not require one. My other kayak....yes it needed one.

[Jimmyz123]

Very nice install. I've wanted to put one of these on my kayaks also. Up until the last Kayak I owned I had really no need, but my last kayak leaked badly and really set in that you never know when you will take on water. Bilge pumps are not that expensive and insuring our safety is worth the price.

[BrokeLoser]

Originally Posted by ful-rac

By the way are you really taking on so much water it justifies a pump? I have a PA too and it does not require one. My other kayak....yes it needed one.

Haha...To be honest I haven't even taken my new PA out. I'm just excited and wanting to do all I can to it.

[BrokeLoser]

Originally Posted by Jimmyz123

Very nice install. I've wanted to put one of these on my kayaks also. Up until the last Kayak I owned I had really no need, but my last kayak leaked badly and really set in that you never know when you will take on water. Bilge pumps are not that expensive and insuring our safety is worth the price.

I'm thinking of springing for this one...650gph and automatic.
http://www.whalepumps.com/marine/sit...eDatasheet.pdf

[ful-rac]

Originally Posted by BrokeLoser

Haha...To be honest I haven't even taken my new PA out. I'm just excited and wanting to do all I can to it.

Really.....save your money for more practical upgrades, you don't need no expensive giant switch panel with switches that'll go bad after a few uses....spend your money on a bait tank, rod holders, wheels, fishfinder....stuff like that, the bilge pump project should be on the bottom of the list...especially for the PA...

[BrokeLoser]

Originally Posted by ful-rac

Really.....save your money for more practical upgrades, you don't need no expensive giant switch panel with switches that'll go bad after a few uses....spend your money on a bait tank, rod holders, wheels, fishfinder....stuff like that, the bilge pump project should be on the bottom of the list...especially for the PA...

I've already installed a fish finder and rod holders..it came with a Hobie live well and Hobie cart.

[hook1fred]

Gotta say when I first saw this thread I thought " why would you need a auto bilge in a kayak especially a PA". I guess if its just for the just in case then I can see it. I took my PA to la jolla all the time in some pretty bad chop/wind and never had enough water in it to even use the hand pump I bought ( until the surf landing )

[steveooo]

Hobie Kayaks are pretty watertight. The PA might take on a few cups water in a bad surf launch if you leave the plastic tub in, but those few cups probably won't be enough to even activate an auto bilge.

Probably the most likely reason you will end up with water in your Hobie kayak, will be by drilling unnecessary holes in it (bilge pump fittings, switch panels).

I'd spring for a decent hand pump and keep things simple.

[BrokeLoser]

Originally Posted by steveooo

Hobie Kayaks are pretty watertight. The PA might take on a few cups water in a bad surf launch if you leave the plastic tub in, but those few cups probably won't be enough to even activate an auto bilge.

Probably the most likely reason you will end up with water in your Hobie kayak, will be by drilling unnecessary holes in it (bilge pump fittings, switch panels).

I'd spring for a decent hand pump and keep things simple.

I guess I figure that like a manual bilge pump an electric wouldn't necessarily be necessary but precautionary. A hand pump is $30-ish while an electric would be $50 - $80. I'm not real concerned about the few cups that I may take at launch or landing...I more concerned about the gallons I've taken in a time or two in real gnarly wind, swell and current..there has been times where I've been in what seemed like a washing machine with wind out there. Have you ever tried to paddle (or peddle) while frantically working a hand pump? Heck, I've heard of guys cracking their decks while on the water. Wouldn't it be nice in those rare situations to not have to worry about using your hands for anything other than paddling your ass back to safety? It would have been awesome to have seen a stream of water shooting from the side of my yak for the times I've been caught out there. Hasn't it been proven in threads here that you can install an electric bilge system without compromising the integrity of a yak? Am I missing something here?

[steveooo]

Originally Posted by BrokeLoser

I guess I figure that like a manual bilge pump an electric wouldn't necessarily be necessary but precautionary. A hand pump is $30-ish while an electric would be $50 - $80. I'm not real concerned about the few cups that I may take at launch or landing...I more concerned about the gallons I've taken in a time or two in real gnarly wind, swell and current..there has been times where I've been in what seemed like a washing machine with wind out there. Have you ever tried to paddle (or peddle) while frantically working a hand pump? Heck, I've heard of guys cracking their decks while on the water. Wouldn't it be nice in those rare situations to not have to worry about using your hands for anything other than paddling your ass back to safety? It would have been awesome to have seen a stream of water shooting from the side of my yak for the times I've been caught out there. Hasn't it been proven in threads here that you can install an electric bilge system without compromising the integrity of a yak? Am I missing something here?

I don't think you are missing anything.

I'm the last person that would discourage drilling into a kayak. My yak has two through hull fittings below the waterline. I've taken my fair share of naysayer abuse for those. This mod is one I am a bit more cautious about for one reason- If the the check valve sticks open, there is the possibility that you now have an open hose that will allow water to flow directly into the hull of the yak. We only sit a few inches above the water, so water coming into a fitting above the waterline wouldn't be that difficult. Ever find water in your flush mount rod holders on a choppy day? Even the best check valve won't seal 100% of the water out. Things also corrode fairly easily on kayaks due to us getting wetter in the surf & how close we sit to the water. Anything electrical- from bait pumps, fuses, batteries, to fishfinder connections are prone to corrosion, so there is also the real possibility that the pump won't turn on after water is in the hull. Yes, all of that happening is a "worst case scenario", but I don't think it is too far fetched. If you do this mod, I'd still carry hand pump as a back-up to your back-up just for a little peace of mind.

I'm sure you will never need the electric bilge, or the hand pump. The only time I've ever used my hand pump on the water was to lend it to another kayaker that had taken on water. I apologize if my post above came across as negative. I love guys that push the envelope in regard to rigging up their yaks.

In regard to you original question- most bilge pumps will have a 3/4" hose outlet connection, which will require a 1" hole in the kayak. The fitting looks like this:

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...1#.ULBQ-kSRvW8

In regard to how to actually rig it up, I would take Jim's advice in post #8 on the link you provided.

Good luck, let us know how it goes. We want to see pics of this thing all rigged up!

[BrokeLoser]

Originally Posted by steveooo

I don't think you are missing anything.

I'm the last person that would discourage drilling into a kayak. My yak has two through hull fittings below the waterline. I've taken my fair share of naysayer abuse for those. This mod is one I am a bit more cautious about for one reason- If the the check valve sticks open, there is the possibility that you now have an open hose that will allow water to flow directly into the hull of the yak. We only sit a few inches above the water, so water coming into a fitting above the waterline wouldn't be that difficult. Ever find water in your flush mount rod holders on a choppy day? Even the best check valve won't seal 100% of the water out. Things also corrode fairly easily on kayaks due to us getting wetter in the surf & how close we sit to the water. Anything electrical- from bait pumps, fuses, batteries, to fishfinder connections are prone to corrosion, so there is also the real possibility that the pump won't turn on after water is in the hull. Yes, all of that happening is a "worst case scenario", but I don't think it is too far fetched. If you do this mod, I'd still carry hand pump as a back-up to your back-up just for a little peace of mind.

I'm sure you will never need the electric bilge, or the hand pump. The only time I've ever used my hand pump on the water was to lend it to another kayaker that had taken on water. I apologize if my post above came across as negative. I love guys that push the envelope in regard to rigging up their yaks.

In regard to you original question- most bilge pumps will have a 3/4" hose outlet connection, which will require a 1" hole in the kayak. The fitting looks like this:

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...1#.ULBQ-kSRvW8

In regard to how to actually rig it up, I would take Jim's advice in post #8 on the link you provided.

Good luck, let us know how it goes. We want to see pics of this thing all rigged up!

No problem...I didn't take offense to anything you said in your previous post. I appreciate you engaging...I've seen your work and I definitely respect your opinions and advice. You make a good argument with regard to the check valve...that's definitely the weak link and my concern as well.

Maybe I'm just trying to hard to keep tweaking on this thing...haha...maybe it's time to just go fish it!

Thanks again man!

[StinkyMatt]

Back up plan:

A good kayak without extra holes in it.
A hand pump
Life jacket
A friend




Most kayakers already have at least 3 of the above safety measures in place. Don't over complicate things. If you do, just call it a Bayliner.


Tight lines.

[jorluivil]

Originally Posted by StinkyMatt

Back up plan:

A good kayak without extra holes in it.
A hand pump
Life jacket
A friend




Most kayakers already have at least 3 of the above safety measures in place. Don't over complicate things. If you do, just call it a Bayliner.


Tight lines.

Matt is right, he has three of the four on his list

[wade]

Hello Brokeloser!

Corrosion is ever present, and although having switch-plate multifunction electrical systems are sweet to admire, when the shit hits the fan..it really does when your 2 miles out and alone. Items that get left unchecked fail miserably when really needed as a general rule of thumb..i just recently had to rescue another fellow kayak fisherman last month..Whats best in my opinion besides a mandatory hand pump, is the 'reverse bait tank'.
I do not affix my intake bilge hose to my bait tank specifically for this reason. When someone is in need of a fast bail, simply pull off your hose with the bilge assembly , and place the bilge into the center hatch or bow hatch and begin expelling water quickly over the side of the yak.this is one of the many reasons why i dont use a hobie live well.
Since your bait tank is constantly in use and checked regularly, you have a much greater chance of this working, than a dedicated inline pump in the event you or a buddy break down. (And this simple method allows you to rescue others as well..)