Been looking for a good weekend to mess around in the surf at San Onofre, and got a couple of them back-to-back. On July 1, it was supposed to be 1-2' so I was planning on only fishing. But when I got there, and more importantly when I landed, I saw some nice sets of 3-5'. I went out between the two areas that had rideable waves, because that is where I would be out of the way of the paddle surfers. It turned out to be a great call for honing my stay on top skills. It was a blast! I just kept trying larger waves, until there were no larger ones. I had several new wave riding experiences that I was able to survive (including a reverse slide). I left the GoPro in the car, because I had removed the dive housing and was just using the camera itself to get better audio. After no more than getting a bit sideways in my seat, I wished I had brought it along.
Well, last Sunday came along with a forecast of 2-3', which was pretty good for another try. Got the morning fishing (and not catching) out of the way and put the gear away. Headed back out and had another great time. Had my second experience with a reverse slide that seemed to go on forever. Anyway, this time I took out the camera. It is a bit long, but you can skip the first 6:53 for the fishing launch and landing, or all the way to 7:53 for the surf landing survival part.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XTpS7qZUMQ