If anyone's been paying attention to the news or surf reports, you probably heard that a massive swell hit the California coast this past Thursday/Friday. I planned to surf on Thursday with a buddy at the peak of the swell. We timed our paddle-out at the HB cliffs with the dropping tide around noon and after a 20-30 minute paddle, we made it through the chaos and into the small pack of guys in the lineup. Waves were coming in very consistently in the 15'+ range and bigger on the largest sets. There were maybe only 8 or so other surfers out, but what really blew my mind was watching Steve K. in his blue Outback casually cruising along with a bounceball rig(I believe) deployed just outside the breakers. The whole time I couldn't imagine how he even got out there, let alone how he was going to get back in! After surfing almost 3 hours, I took a massive 20+ wave cleanup set to the head and got completely throttled, so I decided I was done. Or the ocean decided I was. Either way, I made it to shore and when I got back to the truck, I knew I had to get my camera. Captured some shots of the waves from the cliff with my telephoto. Then I heard some guy yell "The kayaker's going for it!" turned my lens just in time to snap a little sequence of Steve absolutely SENDING IT to shore! Even from so far away, I could tell he was flying. He made it down the face and into the whitewater, but the wall of whitewater appeared to overwhelm the kayak and flipped him. Fortunately, there was a lifeguard on a jet ski watching him the whole time and made sure he got to shore safely. Definitely the most extreme kayaking I have ever seen in person. Pictures posted below. Steve- If you're here, you're a freakin' legend dude. Hats off to you!
01-01-2024, 08:13 PM
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