today was interesting

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the swells were up when i got to the main part of Oceanside Harbor around 12:15 pm. every dozen or so sets a gnarly set of waves would crash over the top of the jetty that faces west to the open ocean. Going out i dipped between these sets and was fine but comming in.... thats were it got interesting. i watched the waves for a good 15 mins figuring out the sets and after the big ones past i started in. figured i had a good 5 mins to make it in so i wasn't in a hurry. got to the mouth of the harbor and the current was pulling me back. not like a rip current but made a steady paddle pretty slow. still didn't think much of it. Im almost in line with the eastern jetty where it make a "Y" and notice the waves start breaking over the top of the west jetty. i turn into them and ride up a good 9fter, then one thats a little bigger and another is comming thats bigger... and behind that... a waves thats starting to cap. so i start paddling like hell in the direction of the waves. into the next wave, up and over and slide down the back then see the last wave and its starting to break at the top and is about 30 ft away. i paddle and paddle and paddle saying "oh sh*t, oh sh*t, oh Sh*t" over and over until in at the base and look up... you should have seen the size of this wave, it was just a wall of water and seemed to be 20ft tall! i paddle into it and my kayak starts for the top. the wave was showing white at the top now and it started to curl just as the tip of my bow punched through it. at that moment i realised i was pretty much vertical with my nose sticking out the top of the wave (this wave was a good 12fter). my momentum pushes me over the top and the wave rolls over behind me as i go into an almost freefall and slam down on the other side of the wave. as soon as i landed i scanned for any more waves then turned towards the harbor and paddled like hell!

it was the most awesome, scariest thing I've ever done!

P.S. i didn't see any Mako's today.