Share Your Innovations

[reefer]

Originally Posted by tagyak

i like how you have a deployment system for the transducer.
it looks great, but most people say that you would want the transducer up front rather than in the back. this way it would show the fish that you are going over rather the fish that you already had passed???? unless of course if they are coming from behind you.....

When I got my boat, the transducer was also mounted on the back. I questioned that too, but most FF have a WIDE sonar, so it wont really matter of the location. I would rather have mind in the water, reading the Temp, and getting the best reading out of it.

This is the way went about it, work great.

http://palmettokayakfishing.blogspot...-for-2012.html

[YakMedic]

Originally Posted by reefer

When I got my boat, the transducer was also mounted on the back. I questioned that too, but most FF have a WIDE sonar, so it wont really matter of the location. I would rather have mind in the water, reading the Temp, and getting the best reading out of it.

This is the way went about it, work great.

http://palmettokayakfishing.blogspot...-for-2012.html

That's pretty cool looking, nice work

[mrJB]

Firstly, the best advice I've seen on how to gaff a hali was written some time ago by Adi:
http://www.bigwatersedge.com/bwevb/s...alibut+gaffing

However, for me personally, on the kayak I like to float them by horizontally (rather than letting them "hang with their head above their tail") and hit them with an upward, vertical stroke, hopefully hitting them in the brain or, on the other side, in the stomach.

With that in mind, I've redesigned my gaff incorporating two distinct features: and ergonomic handle to keep my wrist from getting tweaked, and a somewhat different shape of the hook itself. For that vertical upward shot with the gaff I think the piercing part of the hook penetrates better being completely straight, and the sharply angled bend seems to keep a thrashing hali from easily sliding off. Also, it's a bit wider in gap than a standard hook so, theoritically, I can get nearer their center line.

Time will tell...

[wiredantz]

Well, after getting a few gallons in by the last storm, I went by Andy shop and he told that some of the guys put gaskets around the front hatch to reduce the amount of water getting in.


I did the test by putting the hose against the bow and no water came in the front hatch.

What i did was cleaned the plastic and put down some marine glue and then put the weather seal self stick tape on. It provides a better all around seal.

[james92026]

Originally Posted by Billy V

OK.....Mr. and Mrs. Sea Bass the time is almost upon us so I will share a little.

These are (2) of the finest improvised Kayak Fishing tools I have used.
The first is a New Silent Kelp Clip for those WSB missions that take you into the spaghetti. This clip takes up No room at all, nor does it make any metallic sound.

Its very easy to use, Just grab 2 or 3 single strands of kelp and Cuff it. Tie the other end to your kayak.
It will not slip do to wind or current, and you do not have to pile 25 lbs. of salad on your Kayak to anchor.
-A joint venture between Me and Elbie.
-----------------------
Item #2 is a De- Hooking Tool for your Sabiki Rig.
Hold it by the Cork End and use the hook end to grab the line in front of your hooked Mackerel. Just lift and it will invert the hook letting the Mackerel fall off.
Never again will you have to deal with pliers, or your bare hand around those nasty hooks. This thing work like magic.
Yes, it floats.

-I first started using a piece of coat hanger, and making 2 tight loops and a short shaft with the hooked end. I would wear it on my finger like a ring.
I gave away a bunch of them at the launch every time somebody would ask..What the hell is that ? ..I gave them one.
-This type you see here is the 2nd generation version that has been improved upon by Rick Robinson. Its a Brass Rod (no rust) and a Champagne Cork. He now operates a factory in China and sells them by the gross.

Kinda like that idea, simple always works. Didnt have any corks laying around but did take a wire coathanger, bent the doubled hook end through one of those Listarene Pocket Misters to have something to hold in palm. Also, since the mister still works, I will always have a means to freshen my breath after planting a wet sloppy one on that YT, Thresher, or flattie. I find that the hangars from dry cleaners (ones with the cardboard) provide you with two lengths of wire with end hook already formed. Dress up the "twisted" portion with a bit of electrical tape or shrink tube.

[james92026]

copied design from another blog (Palmetto). Excellent instructions with step by step photos. Works great EXCEPT using a 10.5 Inch top support is a little narrow for this particular boat and positions the cart a little too far aft which is not a problem but having the width about 4 to 6 inches wider would enable you to cradle the hull better and more towards the middle/balance point. Having the cart that far back, the tie straps kept sliding back should I happen to lock a wheel in an obstacle. I solved the problem by taking two tie straps from each side of the axel and ran them up to the bow handle, (nothing to buckle, just hold on to the straps) this keeps them taut and the cart does not slide off. A great little project for a cart that comes apart to store in an "A" hatch. and costs about $33 to build. just a FYI....

[lowprofile]

Originally Posted by lowprofile

also made a rod holder that goes on the gator hatch.









then i cut the bottom tubes to about 1 3/4" and glued a cap to the underside so it clamps the holder to the hatch then extended the top tubes.
sorry for the cell pic

well this didnt work out to well. to much wieght and not enough support for the rods as an outrigger....

so.. i did THIS!





much better and more Lowprofile

[james92026]

IMG_0823.jpgdon't know how good it will be, but just messing around and made one out of sturdy wire coat hangar (the type that have a coating). It is simply bent into loop, hooks on each side, wrapped top loop with electrical tape. It seems strong enough and when weight is on it, the hooks hold firm. Of course you can get a real one for $18.95.

[lowprofile]

Originally Posted by wiredantz

Well, after getting a few gallons in by the last storm, I went by Andy shop and he told that some of the guys put gaskets around the front hatch to reduce the amount of water getting in.


I did the test by putting the hose against the bow and no water came in the front hatch.

What i did was cleaned the plastic and put down some marine glue and then put the weather seal self stick tape on. It provides a better all around seal.

i just did this. used the 7/16 thick and i think 1" wide. makes the hatch sit a little higher and actually compress on the gasket now instead of having a little play. thanks for the idea!

and if anyone is wondering, it takes two 10ft bags and pretty much and entire tube of glue.

[redfish12]

Here's some easy ones to keep this thing going... No where near as impressive or useful, but you know know how it goes.

Leader spool - reuse a braid spool, ziptie to frame, and add snap hook = done.



Rod leash attachment point. Here's one for use when you have the rod out of the holder.






Seat pad, yoga mats work great too... and let's face it women have their own hobbies full of equipment that doesn't get used... so you all probably have a few of these laying around too! Goop has held it in place for over a year.

[jorluivil]

I was interested in purchasing one of those new Hobie deep trays for my Outback but I was getting nothing but bad reviews from those that already had them. Most if not all of the guys that I talked to stated that if to much weight was added or if it was a hot day the tray would give and fall through into the kayak, I decided to buy it anyway and see what I could do to keep it from falling through. After figuring out why the tray would fall through I came up with a little idea.

Step 1
cut a piece of 3/4" PVC to size


Step 2
Goop the hell out of it



It works great!! I had roughly 3 lbs of lead, my digital scale, digital camera, cell phone and a few other small items in the tray and it never fell through.

[bryguth]

Step 2
Goop the hell out of it



It works great!! I had roughly 3 lbs of lead, my digital scale, digital camera, cell phone and a few other small items in the tray and it never fell through.[/QUOTE]

Good idea George!!! I purchased one on Sat, took it out Hooping on Sunday and it already has cracks in the same places were you added the reinfocement... I am convinced that goop is the new duct tape... I wonder what McGguyver would have done with a little goop and PVC?

[dsafety]

For me, the biggest problem with the Hobie hatch system is that there is usually water that settles in the seams around the hatch. When I open the hatch, all that water falls on my previously dry stuff.

Has anyone come up with a solution to this problem, (other than the obvious towel option.)

Bob

[jorluivil]

Originally Posted by dsafety

For me, the biggest problem with the Hobie hatch system is that there is usually water that settles in the seams around the hatch. When I open the hatch, all that water falls on my previously dry stuff.

Has anyone come up with a solution to this problem, (other than the obvious towel option.)

Bob

Drill some tiny holes in the bottom of the bucket/tray. I'll post pics later

[jorluivil]

Originally Posted by redfish12

Here's some easy ones to keep this thing going... No where near as impressive or useful, but you know know how it goes.

Leader spool - reuse a braid spool, ziptie to frame, and add snap hook = done.

I like the idea but I would use something with a higher breaking point, 15lbs seems a little to weak. Why not try some of that black bungee cord?

[redfish12]

Oh the braid was 15lb but after I spooled up... I refilled the spool with 30lb hi seas mono for leader. Just pull out your leader length then use the built in cutter. We use a lot of light braid on the east coast but a heavier leader to deal with abrasion.

[echo1er]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B4SiZdAACpk

[jorluivil]

Meant to post this a while ago.

This is how I store my kayak




The red rope keep is hooked to the two lines, this helps keep the straps from sliding off when I'm lifting the kayak up.

[jorluivil]

After trying several ways to come up with the easiest way to measure my fish while on the water I finally decided to go out and buy a sticker. Not wanting to under measure a fish I decided to take one extra simple step.

Step 1

Stick sticker on paddle, place the sticker on the side that DOES NOT have the paddle release button





Step 2

Place a ring of Goop around the entire paddle right around the 1/2" mark. Slide the paddle drip ring over, as you're sliding it over keep turning the drip ring so that it will evenly distribute the Goop.






Final product

I placed the ring about 1/2" over to avoid under measuring

[GregAndrew]

George, my inner carpenter is on tilt. You should have set the drip ring 5/8" off the end of the tape to accomplish what you intended. The way you have it set, all of your fish measurements will seem longer than they are by 5/8". I use the same type of stick on measuring tape and have considered fixing my drip ring off of the low end for fish longer than the tape. I centered mine on my paddle and just cut out the release button and cut it along the separation between the two ends. Another couple of things to remember when you affix the sticker is to have your paddle positioned as it will sit on your yak as you use it. My paddle has a right and left side and on it's own rolls to a certain side up based on my blade offset. I have wasted a couple stickers that roll to the underside of my paddle when I try to use them.