fishing line

[sasha]

Which is a good fishing line?? what weight do you use for larger fish. I would like to go for larger fish if the chance presents itself. 30-40lb maybe. Also just bass in the kelp. So some line that if it gets in the kelp i get a good chance of pulling on the line and maybe saving the hook and all. I know its not very specific Qs. I would like to minimize my learning curve and not throw away money. Never realy fished in the ocean so no idea what to expect.
Sasha

[DESTROYER]

When you say Bass in the kelp, it sounds like you are referring to Calicos. I fish 60lb Spectra with a 20lb top shot of flourocarbon connected with an Albright Knot. If you go straight mono, 20lb Ande, Big Game, Maxima, P-Line, Izorline, are all good lines. I hope this helps.

If your talking about WSB and YT, I always fish 40lb Big Game or Izorline.

TL-Matt

[sasha]

Thats just the info i wanted. I see alot of posts about spectra lines. What is exactly spectra?? What do you mean top shot??? How do you rig the lines for kelp fishing or when you fish for WSB.

Sasha

[bubblehide]

Spectra has several threads wrapped together, which increases the line strength exponentially. It also helps dramatically in cutting through kelp (there is somewhat of a technique to it). Floro carbon has the highest abrasion resistance and is suggested to be about invisible when in the water (it actually does not refract light) so it makes for great short topshots. You should spend some time in your local tackle store (better yet a few tackle stores) and discuss it with them at length.

[jbm]

To expand on bubble's information, while spectra is very good for its strength, ability to cut through kelp, resistance to line twist, small diameter and sensitivity, it is very visible under water and less abrasion resistant (think fish teeth) compared to other types of line. To keep the benefits of spectra but lose this downside, most people attach some flourocarbon fishing line to the terminal end of their spectra line. The exact length of this "topshot" line varies by personal preference, but it serves several purposes. One is to add some stretch to serve as a kind of shock absorber at the lure/bait end of the line, another is to make the line less visible to fish, and lastly to resist abrasion at the "business" end of your tackle.

There are 2 other downsides to spectra to be consider. It is very expensive compared to other types of fishing line. It also has very little stretch which makes it more likely to tangle on conventional reels (aka backlash or bird's nest).

If money is a major concern, I'd suggest you stick with high quality mono-filament line for the time being. At least until you get used to casting conventional gear and tying good knots.

[sasha]

WOW thats some good info right there. Thank you guys. When you look for reels for fish more then 15-20lb what do you look for??? What makes a good reel??? If you looked for one to start with what is a good brand.

Sasha

[bubblehide]

sasha, books have been written about this stuff, or at least chapters have. So here is a very condensed version:
Spinning reels will outcast conventional, esp if your using spectra with short tops shots; traditionally spinning reels simply didn't have the drag necessary to take advantage of spectra or for that matter heavier line, but as one can expect, things have changed. So if you want to cast far, go with an accurate spinning reel starting at about $600.00 and up. There are some less expensive alternatives.

If your looking for a good party boat type of reel, go with conventional reels. You want something with a good adjustable drag; they come in either star drags (generally better for casting), or lever drags (considered to be more heavy duty). The lever drags are simpler to use, easier to know where your drag settings are at... You also want something with good free spool, essential in dropping live bait back on the swing. And you want a reel that has the drag to effectively fish the line weight you plan to fish. There are many very good reels on the market today, with advantages and disadvantages, many of which the typical fisherman won't even notice. One such example is Avet Reels, a very good reel that in my opinion was designed with the party boat enthusiast in mind. They produce a lever drag that utilizes a cam, so when moving the lever drag it pretty much goes from 0 drag to about 1/3 drag to 2/3 drag to full drag. Where as Accurate Reels, also using a lever drag, has a much smoother drag that appears to evenly distribute the drag throughout the adjustment mechanism. The advantage to the accurate reel, is that you can potentially, and effectively fish any pound line that you want; within reason in respect to the capability of the reels drag. The main reason for Accurate's advantage is that their reels free spool at any drag setting, not the case with Avets. So to do it with Avet reels you need to get another reel, generally a step up in size. But to do it with an Accurate, you would need to change your top shot, something most fishermen don't want to take the time to do if they can just grab another more appropriate set-up.

Then there is the consideration of the maintenance of the reels; since Avet's drain well, their easier to rinse or submerge in water and spin the handle to clean any saltwater residue within their internal mechanisms, and set out to dry. But generally speaking, if you have to send a reel in for maintenance, it's going to cost you if it's not under warranty.

Ok, I'm going to anticipate your next question, rod selection: Over the years we've gone from fiberglass rods, to E-glass, to graphite, to graphite and composites. I'm going to skip over the first two at this point and go straight to today's latest rods. Graphite rods were designed as stiff strong rods that you could pull hard on, and horse fish in; primarily designed to fish a line that stretches, like mono, or spectra with long mono top-shots. Some would fish long floro top-shots, but floro doesn't stretch anywhere close to what mono does. Since the acceptance and popularity of using spectra and short top-shots of floro, and the fact that people were pulling the hooks from fish with the graphite rods, the rod manufactures caught up with the progression and introduced graphite composite rods. Generally the bottom half to 2/3 of the rod is stiff and strong (good backbone), and the top section is much softer, designed to absorb the shock, or take the place of the stretchy mono and not pull hooks. Additionally, the technique to cast a stiff rod (fast action) is a bit different that casting a soft tip (medium action) rod. For me personally, I find it difficult (but not impossible) to switch from a fast action rod to a medium action rod when casting.

I still think you should study some of this stuff, and go into several tackle shops to let them explain it, while holding some of the rods and reels so you can grasp it a bit better. But keep in mind the old saying, opinions are like assholes, everyone has one. I have mine, but that doesn't mean that they fit you; you need to find what your comfortable with, and what works for you.

[sasha]

Thanks lots of info to read and learn. What is a good tackle shop to look at in the LA area??

[jbm]

I just went through this myself, so I'll give you some advice not based on years of saltwater fishing experience but just based upon what I learned and the decisions/mistakes I made.

If money is a serious concern, which I believe you said it was in some of your other posts, I would start with cheap serviceable equipment. Go fishing, figure out what works for you and what causes you difficulties. Then just upgrade your equipment to solve those problems.

You'll probably want at least two rod/reel combos with you. I would start with a penn jigmaster on a cheap 30# rod for live bait, and a Daiwa sealine 40HA or SHA on a cheap 40# rod for irons. Spool them both with mono. Bring a 3rd bass rod for swimbaits/krocs if you want to catch the smaller fish in the kelp. The bass rod could be a spinner with spectra so you don't have to sweat too much about picking out spectra birds nests while your lure sinks into the kelp forest. You can use any of these rods for catching bait with a sabiki rig.

Used equipment can save you a lot of money, but since you never know what equipment is for sale at any given time it is hard to give specific advice on buying used equipment. It's also hard to know what is a good deal and if something has been well cared for if you're not familiar with the gear already.

For rods, I have heard good things about the californians from Turner's. If they break, you can walk into any Turner's and get a new one. If you watch their ads (sign up for their email list as their Wednesday specials don't get posted online) you can get some really good deals on these rods.

Some people are going to tell you don't bother with cheap rods and reels because they will rust out or break within a year or two. But frankly, if you're still fishing regularly in a year or two, you're going to have figured out what you like and don't like about your equipment and will be able to make a decision on new gear based on personal preferences you have developed rather than trying to wade through a bunch of conflicting advice based on other peoples' personal preferences and no experience of your own.

By the way, this advice could be all wrong because I still don't know what I'm doing. Good luck!

[sasha]

Thanks JBM i were figuring out about same thing execept wanted to get a starting point with everything.

Sasha

[bubblehide]

Sasah, a good tackle shop in La, would depend on where in LA you are. I'm in the valley, there is Bob Sands, and Fishing Fools that I would recommend amongst the many in the valley area. If your just starting out, I'd have to agree with JBM; but if you know your going to target larger fish (25 pounds and up), I would buy at least one good new reel. Something like a Avet MXJ, JX or Shimano Tyrnos 8, 10 or 12. From 40 pound line and down you don't really need a 2 speed reel, it might be nice from time to time, but it's not really needed unless you have a physical injury/handicap. I'd look for a good 8 foot jig stick for throwing irons, and a 7 foot stick for most everything else; and a spinning outfit that will hold up to salt water, and you should have all the basic bases covered.

[tagyak]

Originally Posted by sasha

Thanks lots of info to read and learn. What is a good tackle shop to look at in the LA area??

if you're in the san gabriel area, there are two that i would recommend. first Johnny's sport shop in pasadena. they have been around for years, bunch of guys with lots of knowledge. then there is richards in rosemead off of the 10. he has great stuff and if you go in there with cash......so if you're in the area take a look

[old_rookie]

Originally Posted by sasha

Which is a good fishing line??
Sasha

The one that's in the water!!

Sorry couldn't resist any longer.

Get out there and give us a report.

[sasha]

im in LA miracle mile area. but might go to the valley side and visit with family same time.
Old Rookie as soon as i get things going im going to put that line in the water and hope i would have the beginer luck and catch a big one too lol.. Im way behine now heck i dont even have fishing lic yet. So i just go out in the ocean and work some sweat and getting used to the kayak. Im actualy having fun just peddling it around in the ocean for now.

Sasha

[IB Fish"N"]

If i'm out i'm fishing. You can pick up a one day license.