How Much Capacity Is Really Needed?

[dapHBCM]

Hey All,

Hoping to get a little advice and input on how much capacity is really needed in a kayak given my circumstances. I am just getting into kayak fishing (currently trying to modify a 20+ y/o Cobra Tandem) and trying to decide what I will need.

I am mainly going to be fishing around Newport Harbor, Dana Point, and inshore outside of those areas; however, I also want to be able to go down to La Jolla or a little farther offshore with others (neighbor goes about 5 miles out frequently) to target larger species like YT, WSB, etc.

If I go to La Jolla or elsewhere I will be taking a decent amount of gear with me (drive time/rarity of trip) and I am concerned about the capacity of some of these kayaks. I posted something similar over on Blood Decks, but there is a lot more kayak discussion here.

I've tried searching the forums here and around online, but there seems to be a lot of conflicting information and/or information specialized to one particular person's style.

My guestimates on weights:
200lbs Me
40lbs DIY Livewell
25lbs Poles/Gaff/Tackle
10bs Cooler/Water/Lunch
18lbs "Rigged Gear Weight" - Hobie Outback As an Example
7lbs Straps/Pole Holders/VHF/Etc
=
300lbs and then there is still:

batteries
fishfinder/gps
paddle
hand pump/ bailing mechanism
a little water in the kayak
possible wheels from carting to the beach


If all of the above comes to 350lbs + then it seems like im about 1 good fish away from having problems with a 400lb capacity kayak, especially if some of these "70%" of capacity rules I've seen are correct.


What's the general consensus? Do I need the 500-600lb capacity of something like a Pro Angler, or is it fine to push the limit of something like an Outback?

[DanaPT]

You could probably do the outback, leave a cooler pack a sandwich. Scale back. I believe the outback is 290 lbs.

The PA, gets more stable and capacity.

Demo one of each.

[TJones]

Don't push it. You will be working way harder when fully encumbered. It will not be as pleasant on the water. Let alone the safety issue it could present. Maybe switching to a bait tube might be a solution? Good luck.

[dapHBCM]

Originally Posted by DanaPT

You could probably do the outback, leave a cooler pack a sandwich. Scale back. I believe the outback is 290 lbs.

The PA, gets more stable and capacity.

Demo one of each.

Thank you! I'll have to find someone local willing to let me test them out. Everywhere is sold out right now, but I've been trying other options with Andy @ OEX.

Originally Posted by TJones

Don't push it. You will be working way harder when fully encumbered. It will not be as pleasant on the water. Let alone the safety issue it could present. Maybe switching to a bait tube might be a solution? Good luck.

Thank you! Feels like I'm missing something when Hobie makes a livewell that weighs 80lbs full - 25% of the outback's capacity. Guess I need to spend a little more time trying things out and researching - not opposed to going with something larger if needed, but hoping to be a little more flexible if possible.

Any recommendations or thoughts on how far under the listed capacity I should consider? I've seen 70% of capacity a couple places, but that seems way too low considering what a lot of guys are doing on smaller kayaks.

[Saba Slayer]

overthinking it...LOL...

[SoCalEDC]

Here is an article you may find beneficial:
https://www.mensjournal.com/adventur...ight-capacity/

The capacity is a suggestion and is typically under rated. Some kayaks come with a certificate of buoyancy. I also don't know if the capacity includes the weight of the kayak or not.

Here is my personal experience: my outback was rated 425# I would take a lot of gear with me:

If you figure:
My weight (full kit, clothed as I would be for fishing, including pfd, radio, water shoes): 220
kayak weight (with drive+seat+paddle+cart):105
Live well (container and battery): 15
Water (assume 4 gal seawater at 8.6#/gal @ sealevel: ~35
rods,reels, gaff, pliars: 20#
fishing tackle (jigs, hooks, weights, etc.): 10
ff+battery (assume SLA battery and modern FF): 7#
Dry bag w/ change of clothes+emergency stuff: 7#
water (hydroflask 40oz., full include bottle weight): 3#
fish bag w/ ice (20# bag): 23#

total weight: 445#

Before any fish I am exceeding the weight limit of 425 (theoretically). But, never once did I feel like I was sinking or my waterline was too high on the kayak, etc.

If you take out the weight of the kayak it would put me at about 340 (20 below the recommended capacity) so maybe if I had another 85# of gear or landed 85# worth of fish (one can dream right), perhaps it would have been a more uncomfortable ride, but I speculate that the buoyancy is underrated on most kayaks.

On a side note saltwater is more buoyant that freshwater, but I don't know how much difference it makes for real life purposes, although I would suspect it gives you a slight advantage over the mfg rating.

Take all of this with a grain of salt, and call the manufacturer if you want to get more info about their process.

[dapHBCM]

Originally Posted by Saba Slayer

overthinking it...LOL...

That would fit my personality

Originally Posted by SoCalEDC

Take all of this with a grain of salt, and call the manufacturer if you want to get more info about their process.

Thank you! I'm gonna see if I can get ahold of someone over there.

[AnglerBob]

Pretty sure the kayak capacity ratings don't include the hull weight itself, so there's that. But you raise some valid points here regarding what a small floating hunk of plastic can realistically support. I have a smaller yak and try and shave off every ounce of weight possible. I bring two, at the most three rods. A tiny soft-side cooler with a few drinks and snacks, making a late lunch stop after. Small tackle bag with 1-2 waterproof 3600 size boxes.

For me it becomes like a zen thing to have to work within a slimmed-down framework: fishing FW bass for example, I'll concentrate on only one or two techniques and try and convince myself I'm Don Iovino and can catch anything on one 6" worm.

Here's an interesting video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SNHuCrnk8fg on the effects of overloading a kayak.

That said, you may have seen those floating CreekKoolers: a sealed plastic tub you can tow behind you and use for food, fish, whatever. Expensive for what it is, but might be good to float your catch!

[PapaDave]

I have a PA14, I'm 225, more or less, have a bait tank, 3-4 rods and tackle and it does very nicely.

[dapHBCM]

Originally Posted by AnglerBob

Pretty sure ......

I may have to get into this “zen” thing as well - might be able to use it as an excuse to get out more (we’ll see if the SO buys it). The creek coolers are interesting, but might be a sign I’m bring too much stuff!

Originally Posted by PapaDave

I have a PA14, I'm 225, more or less, have a bait tank, 3-4 rods and tackle and it does very nicely.

I think I’m leaning towards something of that size, but trying to see if something a little more portable and affordable could work.

[Gnarwhal]

I have a 2020 Outback. I weigh about 250 without any gear on. I have the Hobie live well V2, four rods/reels, gaf, Garmin fish finder, batteries and plenty of tackle. The only times I ever actually feel unstable is when I kneel on the seat to reach the very back of the kayak. I turn around in the seat and move all over the yak.

[dapHBCM]

Originally Posted by Gnarwhal

I have a 2020 Outback. I weigh about 250 without any gear on. I have the Hobie live well V2, four rods/reels, gaf, Garmin fish finder, batteries and plenty of tackle. The only times I ever actually feel unstable is when I kneel on the seat to reach the very back of the kayak. I turn around in the seat and move all over the yak.

That's comforting - the more I research it seems like there is a pretty healthy buffer calculated into the capacities for some of the kayaks.

I can across these float bags while sifting through articles: https://www.nrs.com/product/42080/nr...yak-float-bags

They wouldn't stop the kayak from flipping, but it would probably help if it did flip or there was a leak. Anyone have any experience with these? Gimic? Over the top?

[SoCalEDC]

Originally Posted by dapHBCM

That's comforting - the more I research it seems like there is a pretty healthy buffer calculated into the capacities for some of the kayaks.

I can across these float bags while sifting through articles: https://www.nrs.com/product/42080/nr...yak-float-bags

They wouldn't stop the kayak from flipping, but it would probably help if it did flip or there was a leak. Anyone have any experience with these? Gimic? Over the top?

They probably help, but if you get an outback it comes with foam blocks installed in the hull that provide buoyancy in the event that the hull takes on water. I have seen some of the old school guys out pool noodles inside the older hulls to replicate that.

[dapHBCM]

Originally Posted by SoCalEDC

They probably help, but if you get an outback it comes with foam blocks installed in the hull that provide buoyancy in the event that the hull takes on water. I have seen some of the old school guys out pool noodles inside the older hulls to replicate that.

I read somewhere about putting an electric bilge pump into the kayak instead of carrying a hand pump. The logic was that you will get fatigued from the hand pump ---- seems like overkill to me, but are people actually doing this?

[JohnMckroidJr]

Originally Posted by dapHBCM

I read somewhere about putting an electric bilge pump into the kayak instead of carrying a hand pump. The logic was that you will get fatigued from the hand pump ---- seems like overkill to me, but are people actually doing this?

Many years ago, I installed an electric pump after flipping and losing a bunch of gear offshore on a Pro Angler 14. It was an overkill response to the loss. In reality, the main reason for the loss was that I had taken the front liner out of the fwd hatch, and the early PA's did not have any sealing gaskets, so if the front hatch did not have the liner, it flooded the whole kayak quickly when overturned.

With the gasket-sealed hatches and extra internal floatation, the risk is lower, and now I just carry a hand pump, bailer, and sponge. Since that incident, I always keep the liner in the front hatch of the PA14 for extra safety.

I weigh 200lbs, typically take 4-6 conventional rods, a fish bag with 12lbs of food, water, and ice, 4lbs of tackle, a downrigger with a 5-6lb lead, Fishfinder with a 6lb battery, and the Livewell that depending on which one I use, weighs 68-94lbs when filled with water.

Taking this gear, I have never had issues with capacity on the PA14(rated for 650lbs). Last year, I started using the 2019 Outback(rated for 425lbs). I can carry the same amount of gear without issue provided I practice more catch and release. I did have one trip with the 94lb Livewell when the 75lbs of landed fish could not be stowed in the fish bag without sinking the back end of the kayak. I dumped the Livewell and headed in.

[dapHBCM]

Originally Posted by JohnMckroidJr

I did have one trip with the 94lb Livewell when the 75lbs of landed fish could not be stowed in the fish bag without sinking the back end of the kayak. I dumped the Livewell and headed in.

I appreciate the info and hope to have to make that same call soon!

[SoCalEDC]

Originally Posted by dapHBCM

I read somewhere about putting an electric bilge pump into the kayak instead of carrying a hand pump. The logic was that you will get fatigued from the hand pump ---- seems like overkill to me, but are people actually doing this?

I have not seen it. I just carry a big sponge. I did the manual bilge pump for a while but it slides around the inside of the hull to where it was mostly unreachable at times and if could finally reach it, its long and awkward to position it to comfortable pump water from between your legs out over the side. I tried to tie it a few times, and then the line would end up in the way of other stuff I wanted in the hull. The sponge doesn't take up much space and doesn't slide around. I just squeezed it between the bottom of the inside of the hull and the center hatch bucket of the kayak when I was on the wtaer and it never moved and was right where I needed it if I did. It also works great for rinsing stuff off. just dip it in the ocean, and then squeeze it over your legs to get the nasty blood from a flailing fish off.

[Uncle_Tomas]

Originally Posted by dapHBCM

Hey All,

Hoping to get a little advice and input on how much capacity is really needed in a kayak given my circumstances. I am just getting into kayak fishing (currently trying to modify a 20+ y/o Cobra Tandem) and trying to decide what I will need.

I am mainly going to be fishing around Newport Harbor, Dana Point, and inshore outside of those areas; however, I also want to be able to go down to La Jolla or a little farther offshore with others (neighbor goes about 5 miles out frequently) to target larger species like YT, WSB, etc.

If I go to La Jolla or elsewhere I will be taking a decent amount of gear with me (drive time/rarity of trip) and I am concerned about the capacity of some of these kayaks. I posted something similar over on Blood Decks, but there is a lot more kayak discussion here.

I've tried searching the forums here and around online, but there seems to be a lot of conflicting information and/or information specialized to one particular person's style.

My guestimates on weights:
200lbs Me
40lbs DIY Livewell
25lbs Poles/Gaff/Tackle
10bs Cooler/Water/Lunch
18lbs "Rigged Gear Weight" - Hobie Outback As an Example
7lbs Straps/Pole Holders/VHF/Etc
=
300lbs and then there is still:

batteries
fishfinder/gps
paddle
hand pump/ bailing mechanism
a little water in the kayak
possible wheels from carting to the beach


If all of the above comes to 350lbs + then it seems like im about 1 good fish away from having problems with a 400lb capacity kayak, especially if some of these "70%" of capacity rules I've seen are correct.


What's the general consensus? Do I need the 500-600lb capacity of something like a Pro Angler, or is it fine to push the limit of something like an Outback?

Somebody mentioned on here to figure out what you want to fish for prior to launching (the night before?) and only bring gear for that. When I run multiple rigs I never catch more than when I only fish with one rig. (Carolina rig + fly line for example). You do get into multiple tangles through the day and you end up carrying a lot more stuff.
You really don’t need that much. One Plano box should be more than enough to cover all your sinkers, jigs and hooks. Add a spool of leader and you should be set. One rod for bait/bass, one rod for fly line or dropper loop and you should be all set. It’s just lot easier to stay organize as well.
Don’t forget your PFD, does not wait anything. Headlamp is a good idea when that marine layer does not burn off in the AM.

[dapHBCM]

Originally Posted by Uncle_Tomas

Somebody mentioned on here to figure out what you want to fish for prior to launching (the night before?) and only bring gear for that. When I run multiple rigs I never catch more than when I only fish with one rig. (Carolina rig + fly line for example). You do get into multiple tangles through the day and you end up carrying a lot more stuff.
You really don’t need that much. One Plano box should be more than enough to cover all your sinkers, jigs and hooks. Add a spool of leader and you should be set. One rod for bait/bass, one rod for fly line or dropper loop and you should be all set. It’s just lot easier to stay organize as well.
Don’t forget your PFD, does not wait anything. Headlamp is a good idea when that marine layer does not burn off in the AM.

Thank you! I'm taking my new (to me) PA14 out on the lake this week - going to try and keep the gear minimal as a tester and go from there.