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06-01-2017, 06:20 AM | #1 |
Member
Join Date: May 2017
Location: corona, CA
Posts: 34
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Hobie bait tank priming issue
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06-01-2017, 07:09 AM | #2 |
TB Metal Art
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: San Diego
Posts: 653
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Normally once you get the pump going haul ass for about 30 seconds and it helps push water up the intake. Also carry a plastic tube about 18" long and same diameter so you can put on the outflow inside the bait tank and pull a slug with your lungs on the other end. This will start a siphon effect and prime the pump. Good luck!
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06-01-2017, 07:10 AM | #3 |
Brandon
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: San Diego
Posts: 2,345
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The correct way to prime with the PA on the water is with forward momentum. Obviously with the long tube. Make sure the cupped black part at the bottom of the hose is facing toward the front of the kayak so water is able to be forced up while you go forward. Check the pump for eel grass as well if youve used it all on the water. Battery charged? Check voltage make sure its full.
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06-01-2017, 07:12 AM | #4 |
Member
Join Date: May 2017
Location: corona, CA
Posts: 34
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Yea this is my second one, im familiar with how to prime just couldn't get it to work. I had the short tube on my old pa amd work fine but i will try the long tube and see how it goes. When i got it to finally prime just seemed like the pump was very weak but maybe i just remember my old.one pumping more... thanks guys
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06-01-2017, 07:29 AM | #5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Menifee, CA
Posts: 1,473
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Trying to get the pump primed by going forward is the hard way. Get yourself a 3-4 foot plastic tube, like a hose or something, place it over the outlet of the pump, turn the pump on and give it a little suck. Like you're siphoning gas or something. You'll find it much easier to get it going, been doing it for years. Just try not to get too much water in your mouth.
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06-01-2017, 07:58 AM | #6 | |
Brandon
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: San Diego
Posts: 2,345
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Quote:
If all you tried was the short tube on the new PA its more than likely your problem. I was given the wrong inlet tube for my PA 14 and was not possible to prime the tank without filling it bout 1/2 way up prior. |
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06-01-2017, 08:00 AM | #7 | |
Member
Join Date: May 2017
Location: corona, CA
Posts: 34
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Quote:
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06-01-2017, 08:38 AM | #8 |
Currently @ MLO Territory
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Under the Shadow
Posts: 2,290
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mine always gives me a hard time, and i hate sucking water via a tube.
So i have a cup and fill the bait tank up to the output of the bait tank. then the water finally starts coming in with forward momentum.
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06-01-2017, 09:31 AM | #9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 332
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3/4" check valve solution
Instead of siphoning a tube or all that work priming, get a 3/4" check valve with no spring. When you install it, just make sure the hinge of the flapper is pointing up, then your bait tank won't drain if you turn off the pump.
About $10 and be worry free... http://www.redflagproducts.com/pvc-f...-x-socket.html |
06-01-2017, 10:28 AM | #10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 2,526
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Prime
The pump is threaded and you can get an adapter from Home Depot to attach a blue flexible hose sold in different lengths . Double female adapter, blue flex hose which has double male ends, and you can even buy cap to make tank water tight. This will help for priming as suggested in above posts. I can post pics of all parts if needed? Set tank on 5 gallon bucket filled with water and prime with hose. If flow is slow I would check your battery voltage . Is the connector on battery original ? If not, make sure pump is not wired backward which would run pump in reverse direction . And last but not least , with tank installed on kayak inspect the tube length how much is protruding from bottom of kayak.
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06-01-2017, 11:52 AM | #11 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Murrieta, CA and Bonney Lake, WA
Posts: 425
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Quote:
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06-01-2017, 11:59 AM | #12 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 6,856
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I also have a short pick up tube and that happens to me every so often. I just keep pedaling and eventually it starts to pump the water into the tank.
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06-01-2017, 12:08 PM | #13 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Murrieta, CA and Bonney Lake, WA
Posts: 425
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Quote:
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06-01-2017, 07:00 PM | #14 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 2,526
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Well?
Between all of us we touched every subject. Looks like a lot of experience here. Let us know what you came up with? And last resort Andy could sell you a new tank.
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06-01-2017, 07:28 PM | #15 |
Manic for Life
Join Date: May 2015
Location: San Diego
Posts: 839
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- Is the scoop of your intake tube facing forward?
- Once I inadvertently crimped my intake tube by shifting the position of the tank when I synched it down. - I typically inspected the bottom of my tank and removed any visible seaweed blocking the impeller after each outing. I thought this was enough. My pump was getting slow so I disassembled the pump to discover lots of other debris on the inside that was not particularly visible without taking the pump apart. Taking the pump out of the tank and twisting it apart for a thorough cleaning made a significant difference. The cheesy plastic nut that holds the pump into the Hobie tank strips easily so don't overtighten. Replacement nuts are available for a $$$ price, of course. Hobie does an excellent job making things just perfectly weak enough so that when it breaks it's our fault, not theirs. - Your pump speed depends on battery voltage. Check to see if you are getting a full charge. Bait tank pump speed is based on 6v rather than a 12v battery we use for our FF and/or other things. These batteries can crap out pretty easily with non-use, overcharging, etc. They are semi-consumable so we are encouraged to replace them as "normal maintenance" ... not particularly designed to be commercial quality or long lasting. - Lastly, make sure your drain plug on the side is in place so the water gets up to the top of the overflow tube. That's all I can think of for now. It's a pretty simple system. Learning to take my pump apart after every trip is what made the difference for me. Yes, it's not a strong pump. To flow freely, it must be clean. Any small threads of sea grass wrapped around the axle can slow it down.
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06-02-2017, 12:41 PM | #16 |
TB Metal Art
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: San Diego
Posts: 653
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I don't think I saw this on on there? Also put some window screen over the intake to prevent eel grass from getting into the pump
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06-02-2017, 01:14 PM | #17 |
Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Pine Valley when not fishing La Jolla
Posts: 2,642
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If hou have the RIGHT LENGTH tube, depending on kayak model, PA's need the longer one. Unless you use the tank on different Hobies, you shouldn't have to change it. Make sure the opening is facing forward. Move forward turn on the pump and all is fine. The piss off is the frickin eel grass that gets in and once dry it slows or stopping the pump. I tried adding a screen but its hard to find one with small enough openings and large enough to not plug up with other kelp debris.
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06-04-2017, 03:31 AM | #18 |
Member
Join Date: May 2017
Location: corona, CA
Posts: 34
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I know i need to put the longer tube on to help prime.. my concern is the volume of water that was being pumped, it was barely moving water i remember my last tank pump a significant amount of water.. ive been looking for videos online
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06-04-2017, 03:48 AM | #19 |
Member
Join Date: May 2017
Location: corona, CA
Posts: 34
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This a shot of the flow after i got it to prime...
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06-04-2017, 02:46 PM | #20 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 2,526
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I'm guessing you did not hook up volt ohm meter?
That looks like a battery problem . Theses pumps are indestructible . Almost. If the pump fails it will be all out. What voltage are you reading from battery ? Go pick up meter from harbor freight for 10 bucks . Free with coupon .
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