09-29-2011, 09:59 PM | #21 |
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09-30-2011, 03:02 AM | #22 |
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I have had some success with goop applied to the piece of velcro attached to the hull. But if you can handle a permanent application then 5200 or epoxy should do the trick. Use a wide piece or a couple of narrower pieces.
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09-30-2011, 03:47 AM | #23 | |
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I want to install some eyelets inside my hull, does the 5200 hold pretty well? I've seen some guys use Marine Goop but I can't imagine it having good holding power.
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09-30-2011, 07:33 AM | #24 | |
Olivenhain Bob
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As for securing your battery box to the hull, Velcro works fine for lightweight batteries but if you use one of the big ones, you will probably find that the Velcro will not hold. I ended up gooping a couple pad-eyes to the hull on either side of the case and running a webbing strap through the eyes and over the battery box. It has held everything in place for a few years without a problem. Bob |
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09-30-2011, 08:25 AM | #25 | |
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09-30-2011, 08:26 AM | #26 |
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Those connections that Hobie is using are made by GM they been using them on cars for years now. Jeep been using them as well. The best price you can get on them would be to go to a junk yard find any GM car and cut them out of the harness. Make sure you have enough wire left to solder your wires to it. Use proper heatshrink tubing for marine and they would work great. Before you plug both sides use some grease and it would be ok. Seen lots of guys build 4WD trucks that can do some water crossing with zero problems as long as intake and exh and the driver stay above the water. Just make sure you do use plenty of proper grease.
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09-30-2011, 08:33 AM | #27 | |
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I am using this style of connector and have never had a problem... If only Hobie's bait tank switches were that reliable! Andy, as usual, is spot on... marine goop with a good scuffing will hold just about anything you need! |
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09-30-2011, 09:23 AM | #28 |
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Looks like a lot of you guys have gone through this already. Thanks to everyone for the ideas.
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09-30-2011, 09:56 AM | #29 | |
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09-30-2011, 10:03 AM | #30 | |
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FYI I use these all over the place and found this place for best prices: http://www.thedetailzone.com/Wiring%20Aids.htm This place for bulk: http://www.mouser.com/_/?Keyword=Weatherpack |
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09-30-2011, 11:03 AM | #31 | |
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I called Marshall's Industrial Hardware and the individual that I spoke with said they did not carry the GM style connectors, only ones called Noble. Here is a link to Nobles catalog (see page 24 for the same product). http://www.noblewire.com/catalog.pdf These may be the ones you saw when you were there last & since I reference "GM" they did know the style being the same. I'm not sure on their price, but maybe someone in the area could post it for all. The price I listed was for one complete set (both plastic connectors, boots & both male and female pins) through Performance Plus. Sammy their main site works, you just have to enter more information (i.e. info you may have already have on your ebay account). While getting them from a wrecked vehicle may be cheaper you are adding one more splice to your wiring which can add to more problems while out on the water. Any wire open to "air" has the possibility of corroding while connected and having current through it. JMO And X2 on the dielectric grease. Keeps the connectors clean of corrosion (preventive general maintenance). |
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09-30-2011, 12:15 PM | #32 |
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Not a bad idea to use a bit of rubbing alcohol after scuffing, before applying the goop (to both the kayak and the pad eye). Same goes for applying the Velcro to the hull. Need the heavy duty wide Velcro without the self adhesive.
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09-30-2011, 03:48 PM | #33 | |
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10-01-2011, 02:11 PM | #34 | |
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BTW you need to use a special crimper on those connectors. If you don't have one PM me as I have one along with the extractor tool. |
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