Graphite or glass?

[BrokeLoser]

Subjective I'm sure but...
I'm thinking about about scoring one more lighter setup.... 7' 15-40ish to go with my other sealine 20.
My brother says try an all graphite rod since I'm converting to braid...he says: "You'll feel everything through the line."
I'll use this setup for fishing kelp and bays....calico's and hali's

Your thoughts?

[JoeBeck]

For a Daiwa Sealine 20 I'd go with a lighter rod, something like a Teramar TMS-70MH or a seeker 196-7', or cheaper the ugly stick BCL110060 (I've caught a lot of bass and halibut on mine )

that is just me though.

[BrokeLoser]

Originally Posted by JoeBeck

For a Daiwa Sealine 20 I'd go with a lighter rod, something like a Teramar TMS-70MH or a seeker 196-7', or cheaper the ugly stick BCL110060 (I've caught a lot of bass and halibut on mine )

that is just me though.

Funny...I'm looking at the seeker 196
But how do you feel about graphite vs. glass rods
My bro is telling me that once I fish with a graphite rod for smaller game it will become my go to setup?
I've always used Ugly Stiks and good but lower end rods..I think they have all been glass or a hybrid of glass and graphite

[tagyak]

i use kencor rods on my freshwater setup. i use light tackle, 2-4# test. i love these rods. super sensitive and strong. lets me have lots of fun when i catch small to large fish.
just sorry that kencor is no longer.....

[dorado50]

Looking for the best all-around rod action to use in all types of fishing?. Give up the search because no such beast exists! Invest in a selection of rods each tapered for peak performance in a particular situation...Gloomis and pure graphite rods are expensive for a reason.

[BrokeLoser]

Originally Posted by dorado50

Looking for the best all-around rod action to use in all types of fishing?. Give up the search because no such beast exists! Invest in a selection of rods each tapered for peak performance in a particular situation...Gloomis and pure graphite rods are expensive for a reason.

Yeah, like I said I'm looking to use this for a niche application....kelp and bay's for calico's, spotted's, hali's...Not really trying to build an offshore rig. I'm more curious about full graphite rods vs. glass and how their functions differ I guess.

[BrokeLoser]

Originally Posted by dorado50

Gloomis and pure graphite rods are expensive for a reason.

I think you said graphite rods are good?

[inshorefisher]

have broken a few expensive well know graphite rods, mostly lite action...6-15 pounds line. broke about 2 feet and up. haven't broken any glass rods and have put them through hell. use to fish high end rods but they required a lot of attention. cheap fiberglass rods, i fish then rinse then throw in them in the corner.

[BrokeLoser]

Originally Posted by inshorefisher

have broken a few expensive well know graphite rods, mostly lite action...6-15 pounds line. broke about 2 feet and up. haven't broken any glass rods and have put them through hell. use to fish high end rods but they required a lot of attention. cheap fiberglass rods, i fish then rinse then throw in them in the corner.

That's what I'm finding....Graphite is lighter and maybe even better but brittle?
Does it really come down to; higher end rods are more fragile and require more caution while being handled, stored, fished...etc?
EEEEESH...I'm not known as the most careful guy around.

[bubblehide]

As you've already figured out, fiberglass rods are exceptional durable, while carbon rods/graphite are much lighter, but can be fragile; the latter also conducts electricity. Yes the grapgite rods are much, much more sensitive, which can be a great benefit.

We, or the industry has (basically) gone from fiberglass, to S glass and then E glass, or simply put, from heavier to lighter product, while little other than weight changed (for the most part). But graphite brought us some significant changes, not only in weight, but sensitivity, strength, backbone... and allowed for some much "faster actions".

With the advent of spectra (think no stretch of the line), and the then common trend of using all graphite rods (at the time), many fishermen were pulling the hooks right out of the mouths of the fish they hooked, and having their fish swim off. While all graphite rods are still being made, the current new trend in rod manufacture is composite rods, or rods made with graphite and glass; rods with plenty of backbone, but also with softer tips, to take up for some of that lack of line stretch, and the head shakes of some fish, so the hook doesn't get spit out. The new composite rods appear to have everything going for them, light weight, durable, and suited for spectra with short tops shots (the way most of us are fishing).

But everything (especially now a-days) has it's application. If the fish are slamming the jig or bait, there is no need for all the sensitivity of graphite. But if their gingerly going after the bait, graphite certainly helps to know what is going on at the otter end. But, your being tapped, as many have found out, you may not want to swing that rod in an attempt to set the hook; you just may want to let the fish start to swim off for a bit, to give it a chance to get the bait in it's mouth or swallow the bait, so that when you do set the hook, you not just pulling the bait away from the fish.

As far as my opinion, I say you should at least try an all graphite rod, so you at least know the difference. But in the end it all comes down to preference for most people. If your holding a rod all day, the weight will certainly make a difference; but if the rod is going to sit in a rod holder most of the time, you may never notice a difference between a graphite rod and an E-glass rod. Yet if you really want an exceptionally sensitive rod, you should be considering an all graphite rod with a handle that allows the mounting surface of reel to touch the rod blank.

If you ever do the party boats, preferably multi-day trips, it's a great place to ask people to try out their rods. I've managed to make many friends by doing this and allowing others to try mine. You'll learn lots, and begin to know what you want out the equipment, and what equipment will give you what you want; or preform the way you want it to.

[inshorefisher]

well written.

Originally Posted by bubblehide

As you've already figured out, fiberglass rods are exceptional durable, while carbon rods/graphite are much lighter, but can be fragile; the latter also conducts electricity. Yes the grapgite rods are much, much more sensitive, which can be a great benefit.

We, or the industry has (basically) gone from fiberglass, to S glass and then E glass, or simply put, from heavier to lighter product, while little other than weight changed (for the most part). But graphite brought us some significant changes, not only in weight, but sensitivity, strength, backbone... and allowed for some much "faster actions".

With the advent of spectra (think no stretch of the line), and the then common trend of using all graphite rods (at the time), many fishermen were pulling the hooks right out of the mouths of the fish they hooked, and having their fish swim off. While all graphite rods are still being made, the current new trend in rod manufacture is composite rods, or rods made with graphite and glass; rods with plenty of backbone, but also with softer tips, to take up for some of that lack of line stretch, and the head shakes of some fish, so the hook doesn't get spit out. The new composite rods appear to have everything going for them, light weight, durable, and suited for spectra with short tops shots (the way most of us are fishing).

But everything (especially now a-days) has it's application. If the fish are slamming the jig or bait, there is no need for all the sensitivity of graphite. But if their gingerly going after the bait, graphite certainly helps to know what is going on at the otter end. But, your being tapped, as many have found out, you may not want to swing that rod in an attempt to set the hook; you just may want to let the fish start to swim off for a bit, to give it a chance to get the bait in it's mouth or swallow the bait, so that when you do set the hook, you not just pulling the bait away from the fish.

As far as my opinion, I say you should at least try an all graphite rod, so you at least know the difference. But in the end it all comes down to preference for most people. If your holding a rod all day, the weight will certainly make a difference; but if the rod is going to sit in a rod holder most of the time, you may never notice a difference between a graphite rod and an E-glass rod. Yet if you really want an exceptionally sensitive rod, you should be considering an all graphite rod with a handle that allows the mounting surface of reel to touch the rod blank.

If you ever do the party boats, preferably multi-day trips, it's a great place to ask people to try out their rods. I've managed to make many friends by doing this and allowing others to try mine. You'll learn lots, and begin to know what you want out the equipment, and what equipment will give you what you want; or preform the way you want it to.

[BrokeLoser]

Originally Posted by bubblehide

As you've already figured out, fiberglass rods are exceptional durable, while carbon rods/graphite are much lighter, but can be fragile; the latter also conducts electricity. Yes the grapgite rods are much, much more sensitive, which can be a great benefit.

We, or the industry has (basically) gone from fiberglass, to S glass and then E glass, or simply put, from heavier to lighter product, while little other than weight changed (for the most part). But graphite brought us some significant changes, not only in weight, but sensitivity, strength, backbone... and allowed for some much "faster actions".

With the advent of spectra (think no stretch of the line), and the then common trend of using all graphite rods (at the time), many fishermen were pulling the hooks right out of the mouths of the fish they hooked, and having their fish swim off. While all graphite rods are still being made, the current new trend in rod manufacture is composite rods, or rods made with graphite and glass; rods with plenty of backbone, but also with softer tips, to take up for some of that lack of line stretch, and the head shakes of some fish, so the hook doesn't get spit out. The new composite rods appear to have everything going for them, light weight, durable, and suited for spectra with short tops shots (the way most of us are fishing).

But everything (especially now a-days) has it's application. If the fish are slamming the jig or bait, there is no need for all the sensitivity of graphite. But if their gingerly going after the bait, graphite certainly helps to know what is going on at the otter end. But, your being tapped, as many have found out, you may not want to swing that rod in an attempt to set the hook; you just may want to let the fish start to swim off for a bit, to give it a chance to get the bait in it's mouth or swallow the bait, so that when you do set the hook, you not just pulling the bait away from the fish.

As far as my opinion, I say you should at least try an all graphite rod, so you at least know the difference. But in the end it all comes down to preference for most people. If your holding a rod all day, the weight will certainly make a difference; but if the rod is going to sit in a rod holder most of the time, you may never notice a difference between a graphite rod and an E-glass rod. Yet if you really want an exceptionally sensitive rod, you should be considering an all graphite rod with a handle that allows the mounting surface of reel to touch the rod blank.

If you ever do the party boats, preferably multi-day trips, it's a great place to ask people to try out their rods. I've managed to make many friends by doing this and allowing others to try mine. You'll learn lots, and begin to know what you want out the equipment, and what equipment will give you what you want; or preform the way you want it to.

WOW bubblehide....now thats an explanatory post..and totally layman too. I think I'll try and find a reasonably priced graphite stick and give it a whirl. Sounds like it may make a killer halibut rig. Thanks for the info..that was just what I needed...haha

[roby]

Thanks for taking the time Bubblehide.

[MrPatrick]

Go to Big 5 and see if they will sell you an okuma Catalina rod at the sale price. It was 39.99$ last week. Most of the managers will sell items at the sale price if it is right after the sale. Very nice rod for 40 bills.

[BrokeLoser]

Does anybody know anything about the Avet rods that are graphite like the SX 870? they are $90 on sale at Big 5 right now.

[bus kid]

Originally Posted by BrokeLoser

Does anybody know anything about the Avet rods that are graphite like the SX 870? they are $90 on sale at Big 5 right now.

Skip the Avet save some money and get a "Ugly tiger"

http://reviews.basspro.com/2010/8012...ws/reviews.htm

[taggermike]

I like the stiffness and sensitivity of graphite rods. All my bait and plastic sticks are now graphite. Some rods like the Castar Graphiters and Seeker Black Steels use a combo glass/graphite to give a good ballance of duability and sensativity. I find the graphite rods give a greater recoil or lifting power. I have never had a problem with breakage in graphite rods. Avoid high sticking and you'll be fine. For less finesfull aplications, surface and yo-yo iron, I stick with glass rods. I find the glass provides a bit of a shock absorber and I just like the way a 9' glass surface iron stick loads up and fires. And honestly, if you can't tell your bit while yo-yo fishing your rod is the least of your problems. Mike

[BrokeLoser]

Originally Posted by bus kid

Skip the Avet save some money and get a "Ugly tiger"

http://reviews.basspro.com/2010/8012...ws/reviews.htm

I have a 7' 20-50# ugly stik tiger and like it a lot. Then I have two American series seekers. I'm thinking I need one more 7' light rod...I had a 7' 12-30# ugly stik but the tip was way to light...felt like I was hooked on a lunker with 2oz's of lead and a tiny Mac

[Fiskadoro]

Originally Posted by BrokeLoser

Subjective I'm sure but...
I'm thinking about about scoring one more lighter setup.... 7' 15-40ish to go with my other sealine 20.
My brother says try an all graphite rod since I'm converting to braid...he says: "You'll feel everything through the line."
I'll use this setup for fishing kelp and bays....calico's and hali's

Your thoughts?

I'd disagree with your brother.

I'd say something has got to give.....

Carbon fast taper rods were designed for mono. They transmit every vibration, and can move fish quicker which makes up for the stretch of mono.

Spectra since it has very little stretch has no give when fish lunges or shakes it's head, so not only do you not need a graphite rod but it becomes kind of a problem..

Combine spectra with a carbon fast taper rod and you not only have a rod that has no give but a line that has no give as well and that results in more torque at the hook, which translates into lost fish. Also in my opinion it's just uncomfortable to fish with.

I've played with a lot of rods with spectra and the best ones are more parabolic traditional glass rods because they have enough give to compensate for spectras lack of stretch. I mostly fish with vintage yellow sabres, black glass Calstars and Kencors. As they work great with spectra.

If you want the best of both try a Kencor Zebra.

Magnaglass construction and a spiral of graphite. Since the graphite flexes like a spring they give you more sensitivity but they are still parabolic enough for spectra.

I collect these and they are fantastic for fishing spectra. I'd recommend a Kencor 7ft Zebra Z7X1030, or if that is too pricey a NZKAYK770C which is their cheaper series. I run Diawa 20s on both those rods.

My buddy Byron can hook you up with them. The true Zebra is about $150 the NZ sells for about $60 now that Kencor is out of business.

I think over time your going to see a resurgence back to more parabolic glass or glass graphite composite rods in response to the spectra fishing market but these things take time.

Jim

[Fiskadoro]

Originally Posted by bubblehide

As you've already figured out, fiberglass rods are exceptional durable, while carbon rods/graphite are much lighter, but can be fragile; the latter also conducts electricity. Yes the grapgite rods are much, much more sensitive, which can be a great benefit.

We, or the industry has (basically) gone from fiberglass, to S glass and then E glass, or simply put, from heavier to lighter product, while little other than weight changed (for the most part). But graphite brought us some significant changes, not only in weight, but sensitivity, strength, backbone... and allowed for some much "faster actions".

With the advent of spectra (think no stretch of the line), and the then common trend of using all graphite rods (at the time), many fishermen were pulling the hooks right out of the mouths of the fish they hooked, and having their fish swim off. While all graphite rods are still being made, the current new trend in rod manufacture is composite rods, or rods made with graphite and glass; rods with plenty of backbone, but also with softer tips, to take up for some of that lack of line stretch, and the head shakes of some fish, so the hook doesn't get spit out. The new composite rods appear to have everything going for them, light weight, durable, and suited for spectra with short tops shots (the way most of us are fishing).

But everything (especially now a-days) has it's application. If the fish are slamming the jig or bait, there is no need for all the sensitivity of graphite. But if their gingerly going after the bait, graphite certainly helps to know what is going on at the otter end. But, your being tapped, as many have found out, you may not want to swing that rod in an attempt to set the hook; you just may want to let the fish start to swim off for a bit, to give it a chance to get the bait in it's mouth or swallow the bait, so that when you do set the hook, you not just pulling the bait away from the fish.

As far as my opinion, I say you should at least try an all graphite rod, so you at least know the difference. But in the end it all comes down to preference for most people. If your holding a rod all day, the weight will certainly make a difference; but if the rod is going to sit in a rod holder most of the time, you may never notice a difference between a graphite rod and an E-glass rod. Yet if you really want an exceptionally sensitive rod, you should be considering an all graphite rod with a handle that allows the mounting surface of reel to touch the rod blank.

If you ever do the party boats, preferably multi-day trips, it's a great place to ask people to try out their rods. I've managed to make many friends by doing this and allowing others to try mine. You'll learn lots, and begin to know what you want out the equipment, and what equipment will give you what you want; or preform the way you want it to.

Nice Gary... good info for sure.

Jim