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07-31-2006, 09:37 AM | #1 |
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Carlsbad
Posts: 20
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Bait tank priming Help
I'd appreciate any help in this subject and thank you all in advance. I finally decided to build up a bait tank for my Malibu Extreme. I'm using a Atwood 500 aerator thru hull pump. I'm still in initial testing with it. I'm testing it in the bath tub, but it is having a hard time siphoning water. It's just a straight hose 3/4" ID. Now this is the hose that would go thru my scupper. The method I use to prime it is, I would pour water in the pump through the other end from inside the 5 gallon bucket. Then I would turn on the pump and wait for the siphoning to begin. But it takes a real long time, and I end up pouring down alot of water before it starts. Now with this pump, it is powered by a 12V gel cel 7.2Ah connected to the pump in reverse polarity. When it is connected the right way, it fills the bucket way to fast the exhaust cannot keep up with it. I know I can go with a bigger diameter exhaust hole, but I don't think I need water coming in tank at such a fast pace. That's why I keep it connected in reverse polarity. My question is, is there another method in order to prime the tank much faster. Can I use a primer bulb? Does anyone have any experience using this method. All your help and suggestions are highly appreciated. Thanks. Jeff |
07-31-2006, 10:53 AM | #2 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 2
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Try a primer bulb. ops: ops: ops:
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07-31-2006, 11:19 AM | #3 |
on phonics
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: La Mesa
Posts: 47
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atwood makes an adjustable spray head, that you can regulate the amount of water coming in. Also you may want to play with using a 6v battery to run the pump a little slower.
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07-31-2006, 01:47 PM | #4 |
Work Sucks!
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: San Diego
Posts: 559
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:shock: Dejavu all over again... I did this same project a few months ago... My problem was that when you hook up the outlet hose and run it down through your scupper hole, it's going to create a siphon keeping the water level at whatever level your hole is, but it's loud and anoying (this happened when I tested it in my tub)... Hope you have a screen for the intake hose cuz your gonna get eel grass fouling up your pump otherwise... also, you may or may not notice this but 5 gallons of water is a lot to have above your center of gravity, so be careful when in rough swell... About priming, I carried a gatorade bottle with me and poured it down the exhaust end of the pump. You have to turn the pump facing directly upwards to allow the air to escape, then turn it back and forth to allow any trapped air out as well..pain in the ass I know, so a priming bulb is better... OH, and the water pressure in your tub is different than the water pressure in the ocean....where does this cause a problem... When you have the exhaust hose in submerged beneath your kayak through your scupper hole, the water doesn't flow freely out of your tank, causing overflow in your tank..... that may solve a siphon problem though :? ... anyway, after wasting close to $150 bucks on tools and required parts, (wood bits, drill bits, buckets, check valve, pump, wire connectors, glues, epoxies, hoses, pvc fittings, brass fittings, screen, hose clamps) I gave up and saved for a kayatank... no problems, more practical, sits beneath the water level (no priming)...my .02 cents hope your experience is better than mine...
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07-31-2006, 06:37 PM | #5 |
Junior
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 11
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take that atwood pump and throw it away, get a rule 360 bilge pump ($14), timer switch ($30) atwood spray head ($5) I have been using mine for 4 years straight no real problems. Priming is a pain in the arse and if you need to prime it then you will need to have the pump running continuously which will require a larger battery.
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07-31-2006, 07:11 PM | #6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: San Diego
Posts: 288
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prime the pump
Go to West Marine and buy a anti siphon valve for you pick up hose. It runs about $18.00 plus tax. Once you install it get an 18 inch piece of 3/4 inch heater hose. Suck with the heater hose on the outlet of the pump. Once you prime it, it will stay primed all day long. Much better than a bulb. You can look it up on the web. 8)
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08-01-2006, 09:06 PM | #7 |
Member
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Priming
Two solutions!
Solution #1, Get an outboard motor gas primer bulb at walmart(around$4) and put it in your intake hose. Make sure the arrow is poiinting up, to the tank! Solution 2, Not pleasant, but it works! Put a length of clear vinyl hose(Home Depot) over the end of your attwood pump spigot in the tank. Make it about one and a half feet long. Start your pump and suck on the end of this vinyl tube. As soon as you get water in the tube , put the end down in your bait tank, it'll keep on pumping! I use a 6 volt 12 amp-hour battery on my tank, it provides a correct flow. But if you use the outboard motor primer bulb, hook up your 12 volt battery with correct polarity. It should be ok, because the internal diameter of the bulb is 3/8 of an inch. This restricts the flow! Here's a pic of my tank. Notice there is no outlet hose. The water escapes thru the holes I've drilled in the tank horizontally at the desired depth! It runs out the other scupper! First pic has a fat intake hose for my fish n dive! Pic 2 has a smaller intake hose for my Pro 2 Tandem(Smaller scuppers!) ! Some people put a mesh garlic sack over the intake as a filter. Others stuff a small piece of a scotchbrite pad in the end. The bottom line is to gradually debug your bait tank until it works for you! Hope this helps! Piranha/Jerry 8)
__________________
Oh Lord, Thy sea is so great and my boat is so small! |
08-01-2006, 09:57 PM | #8 |
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Carlsbad
Posts: 20
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Thanks All,
Appreciate everyones input, suggestions, and time for posting. I ended up using the primer bulb to help with the siphon. I hooked it up to the outtake of the pump, via a T connector. I have to cover the nozzle inside of the bucket with my thumb and prime it just about three times and then instant flow. First, I had a problem with the water flow coming out of the bulb like a sprinkler. So then I just bled it off to the exhaust. All the testing was done in the tub and it worked great. I just have to see how it works out in the field. I have one more question though please. When using the intake thru the scupper, how far should the pipe go down thru the bottom of the yak. Right now the tube doesn't clear the bottom of the boat by about half an inch. should I change it out to clear the bottom of the boat by an inch or so. If anyone can share there field experience going thru the scupper please. Thanks. Piranha, thanks so much for posting those pics. I like the garlic mesh, i'm gonna use it. Here's some pics of my finished bait tank. just hope it works out in the field. Jeff |
08-02-2006, 11:06 AM | #9 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 2
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looks like the primer bulb worked.... 8)
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08-03-2006, 02:17 PM | #10 |
Member
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Intake depth!
Your intake tube just needs to be just long enough so that it never comes outta the water. It shouldn't protrude too deep below the hull of your yak or else your yak will constantly turn in that direction. Sorta like when you brake with your paddle. My boat turns slowly right when I stop paddling and the bait tank is in the water. I'd say no more than a half inch below your hull line is enough. If you weigh 275 like me, it will usually stay submerged. If I were to go to the front of the yak, it might come out! If it's too short and comes outta the water when you go over a big steep swell, you will lose suction, you won't notice it, and all your bait will die(literally, it will drown!) ! Piranha ops: 8)
__________________
Oh Lord, Thy sea is so great and my boat is so small! |
08-06-2006, 09:32 PM | #11 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 19
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jefkawst---EASY- stick to you bait tube!!!!! - man U must be bored :lol: :lol: :lol:
See you on the battle field!!!!!!!!@ |
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