Share Your Innovations

[TJones]

For bait tank

[TJones]

For fish finder . Keep in mind I'm running 7" screen that draws close to 1 amp per hour approximately. I'm using Lipo battery to reduce weight instead of carrying 10 lb battery. This battery is water resistant and has solid connectors. This battery is designed for race bike applications.

[TJones]

This pic belongs in fish report section

[TJones]

At least one or two pics are straight . Smh . How do I fix that ?

[King Saba]

Originally Posted by MITCHELL

Bingo home made bait rod

How has this been working for you? Does the tent pole cause line abrasion.

[kayachapi]

Scraped off the old paint, foil tape, repainted, then resin.

[Wyota]

Looking at all the ideas for battery boxes for fishfinders, I decided to build my own. I started with the math to figure out what size battery I needed for the time I needed on a fishfinder. I then looked at other accessories I might want to add. Livewell pump added more amperage need. Stern light for night ops added even more. bow lights If I so desired added even more. And finally, since I hoop net off the yak, those lights would require even more.

I started thinking of other accessories that could be added, and decided some sort of power distribution box and switches were called for. In order to be able to have any length of time with any heavy power accessories, I knew I might need a sizeable battery. The battery I settled on was a Duracell 14F2 14Ah AGM battery. Too big for any of the little Walmart boxes I see on here, and I didn't want to spend the money for a Pelican box just to cut holes in it.

I originally thought about putting the battery below decks (through the very small hatches mine has), and running switches through the skin of the yak. However, I didn't want to cut into the yak, and as we have 2 of these kayaks, it would be nice to be able to interchange my kit.

So, short story now long, a $5 Walmart Plano ammo box (has o ring lid), some switches, waterproof connectors, and a bus bar from Amazon, and now I have a portable power distribution box with switches that I can run up to 5 12v accessories off of, provided I put the correct plug on the end of the wires. I could even mount the FF to the top of it, but I probably won't as the box can be portable 12v power for a wide variety of things (I could even go to an outdoor party and run music, lights, and other things off the contraption.

Shown setting in Kayak well for size sake. When I actually take it out, it will be strapped down.

[FullFlavorPike]

*slow clap* Kudos to you, sir. That battery box is so awesome, and so doomed to corrosive failure

My rig uses a single voltage divider to split a 12v battery into 6v for the bait tank and 12v for the fish finder. Long story short, even that's too much wiring and I bought a 6v battery so I can rewire the whole system in a simpler fashion.

Unless you goop over all those switches that thing is going to short out in like one trip. Those ammo boxes aren't really that waterproof, either. I don;t mean to be a total hater, because that's an elegant and beautiful rig you built, but it's going to be a pain in your butthole.

[Wyota]

Thanks for the tips, I'll make some refinements and see if I can negate some of that, as I really don't want to be running 5 batteries for 5 systems, and I like a challenge!

I've got a few ideas to shore up the boxes rubber seal from my diving kit (bigger O-rings and silicone keeps water out of some of my stuff at 120 foot depth, I think it can handle the surf) and some sort of "over" rubber around the lid such as an innertube or something.

The switches will be the weak link. I had gooped where the switches went in, and they have the rubber seals and covers, but I'll add extra goop to help out and see if I can shore it up a bit.

I'll update after I have corrected and taken it out this weekend, as well as a couple weeks after that to see how she is holding up at that point.

[Wyota]

Well, based on your advice, I gooped the poop out of the switches (not so pretty now), and I decided to use a liberal amount of dielectric grease on the box seal. Took it out, and while it didn't get a full dunking, it got pretty wet. Appears to be no moisture whatsoever inside the box. Gotta give it a few more days to check for any moisture or corrosion, but appearts to be holding up pretty well. After use, have decided to mount the ff to the top of the box (assuming it passes the longer term corrosion test).

Goop is great!!!!!

Update: 16 days later and nary a bit of moisture or corrosion. I'll keep inspection, grease and regoop as needed as a critical pre op check and it should be fine. Now to build out the light rig.

[Modigity]

Made a bait tank out of a Marine Cooler and copied the workings of the hobie bait tank using the scuppers for water intake and drain. I chose this cooler since it fits snug in the back of the Pro Angler and already had knotches I can put the bungie cords. I also rigged a stadium seat to the back and works perfect for passengers.

[Wyota]

Originally Posted by Modigity

Made a bait tank out of a Marine Cooler and copied the workings of the hobie bait tank using the scuppers for water intake and drain. I chose this cooler since it fits snug in the back of the Pro Angler and already had knotches I can put the bungie cords. I also rigged a stadium seat to the back and works perfect for passengers.

Nice setup, I'll be pinching some of your ideas as I look to build one for myself.

Quick noob questions:

The black bulb inline to the inlet pipes. Is that so you can manually add water should the bilge pump not have power?

The pipe over the top/side: does that have holes in the underside for the water to flow in?

[YakDout]

Originally Posted by Wyota

Nice setup, I'll be pinching some of your ideas as I look to build one for myself.

Quick noob questions:

The black bulb inline to the inlet pipes. Is that so you can manually add water should the bilge pump not have power?

The pipe over the top/side: does that have holes in the underside for the water to flow in?

Its to prime the tank, instead of having to use forward propulsion to push water up the inlet under the scupper.

[Modigity]

Originally Posted by YakDout

Its to prime the tank, instead of having to use forward propulsion to push water up the inlet under the scupper.

Yes, its a primer so I can turn it on when im stationary.

[cabojohn]

Making gafs for a couple friends...I use my broken composite /carbon fiber ice hockey sticks and they work awesome!! Grips are fantastic.
Nothing fancy just solid, light & functional...
Some pics-

[NICKWORN]

Originally Posted by cabojohn

Making gafs for friends...I use my broken composite ice hockey sticks and they work awesome!! Grips are fantastic.
Nothing fancy just solid, light & functional.
Some pics-

??

[InfidelYak]

So I got off a little early and decided to follow the link that was posted for the DIY kayak cart. It came out perfect! Simple easy to follow instructions and the final price was around 60$ I couldn't be happier.

Heres the link in case you missed it

http://palmettokayakfishing.blogspot...52011.html?m=1

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[DanaPT]

Originally Posted by NICKWORN

??

I have a sherwood gaf (made from real wood) that does float. My guess on the graphite is that they will fill with water and sink.

[Mr. NiceGuy]

Originally Posted by cabojohn

Grips are fantastic.
Nothing fancy just solid, light & functional...
Some pics-

What did you use to make the white grips?

[cabojohn]

Originally Posted by Mr. NiceGuy

What did you use to make the white grips?

^
I didn't make them...purchased from Hockey Giant / Hockey Monkey.
They sell them for about $7. They are pre made. Glue on w/ hot water.
Different colors, sizes & lengths.
I'm sure you could use them on any gaff / shaft.