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Old 03-22-2010, 07:16 AM   #1
Sherm
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Hull repair?

Was out at LJ yesterday and almost rolled the yak. Felt very Unstable. I opened the hatch and the hull was half full of water. I bailed everything out and continued a few more times during the day.

When I got home a found a big ding in the bottom of the keel. There is a small hole about the size of a pencil lead through the hull.

The question is....can this be repaired or am I screwed? I'm very comfortable on the old Fish n Dive. I would hate to give her up over a pin hole.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Sherm
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Old 03-22-2010, 07:26 AM   #2
467echo
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I'm no expert but I'm pretty sure the guys at OEX can fix it up.
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Old 03-22-2010, 10:14 AM   #3
Jimmyz123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 467echo View Post
I'm no expert but I'm pretty sure the guys at OEX can fix it up.
He is correct. Before I bought my Kayak the owner took it to OEX in Oceanside and they welded the bow. I have a Cobra Kayak and OEX will fix them. Good luck.
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Old 03-22-2010, 02:28 PM   #4
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Have you tried G-flex epoxy by West?

http://www.westsystem.com/ss/g-flex-torture-demo/
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Old 03-22-2010, 02:42 PM   #5
frady
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The bug machine is taking on water not good. Take it down to OEX they will fix it back up. Hope you guys had a good day on the water other than the hole.
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Old 03-22-2010, 02:58 PM   #6
Gino
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Thats a very easy fix! Take it down and have it fixed at OEX, I cant Imagine they would charge and arm and a leg for somethign simple. You can use hulcliner on the inside of the yak where the hole is to reinforce and help close the hole.

If you got a Tortch and a repair stick, you can fix it yourself, but I'd be carefull unless u know what ur doin
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Old 03-22-2010, 07:37 AM   #7
yani
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Hey Sherm,

Here's some advice. Don't take your kayak to Wes
in Gardena for repairs.

I took my kayak there over a year ago for leak repairs.
Which I paid for, no arguments.
When I got it back, I let my brother-in-law use it.
I almost drown him, since, I never checked their repairs,
and assumed they did good work. It still leaked, in a
bad way.

So, I took it back last Dec. And I've been getting the run
around ever since. The last conversion I had, last week, went
like this: We can't afford to repair the expensive welding gun
it takes to repair your kayak. We can't afford to have any
repair workers on staff. Come and get your kayak, and repair
it somewhere else.

Apparently, Corbra doesn't honor its "life time warranty" anymore.

Sad, since I've been promoting the FnD, to many of my friends, and club
members. They all bought one. I feel bad for leading people down the wrong path.
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Old 03-22-2010, 07:53 AM   #8
Sherm
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Thanks for letting me where not to go Yani.

I'll start with the OEX guys. I know they don't deal with Cobra but they may know how to repair or be able to point me in the right direction.

Unfortunately...the place I bought it is out of business. At least it's the same spot OEX now occupies.
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Old 03-22-2010, 09:03 AM   #9
hatchetman
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last I heard rick was down off Morena blvd by sears outlet, I believe he is still there and know he will fix it he has fixed larger holes than that in my fnd from screws used to hold scotty mounts.
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Old 03-22-2010, 09:23 AM   #10
stairman
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fix it your self

Get stainless steel screw with a diameter(not the outside of the threads) that is a little bit larger then the hole ,then if you have access to the area inside, shape a piece of good mahogany or teak that is bigger then the hole by three inches or so from the hole in each direction,and thicker then the screww is long. Use goop or any type of flexible glue on the bottom of the wood and the surface around the hole inside.Make sure the surfaces are clean.Have the wood have a small pilot hole and screw has a neoprene washer and metal washer. And screw that thing in good and tight.
You probably have 2-3 psi of water pressure to keep out so it shouldn't be too difficult.
That is unless your like a friend of mine with two college degrees that can cross thread a wing nut on a battery terminal!Then you could pay some dope like me that didn't graduate from highschool to do it!
Shit you can figure out how to use a computor!
I did a repair just like that on an aluminum boat that lasted 15 years!If the wood is good and dry when installed it will swell when wet. If you get the mating surfaces shaped pretty similar it should work dam well.The bonus is that now you have a skid plate on the bottom!
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Old 03-22-2010, 09:53 AM   #11
peguinpower
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ICEMAN can have somebody weld that up with PE in no time. I have seen 2 inch wide cuts welded elsewhere. It wasnt pretty, but it worked

/bing
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Old 03-22-2010, 09:54 AM   #12
Rob929
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More DIY

The screw sounds like a good idea. Unless its on the keel that would be exposed to the ground (dragging on the beach, loading etc.)

Another option would be to get a plastic welding kit (think they have reasonable prices on them at Harbor freight) Then you could practice on a scrap, or somewhere else on the kayak to get the temperature and technique right.

Otherwise, as always, oex is a great option.
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Old 03-22-2010, 10:09 AM   #13
Sherm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stairman View Post
Get stainless steel screw with a diameter(not the outside of the threads) that is a little bit larger then the hole ,then if you have access to the area inside, shape a piece of good mahogany or teak that is bigger then the hole by three inches or so from the hole in each direction,and thicker then the screww is long. Use goop or any type of flexible glue on the bottom of the wood and the surface around the hole inside.Make sure the surfaces are clean.Have the wood have a small pilot hole and screw has a neoprene washer and metal washer. And screw that thing in good and tight.
You probably have 2-3 psi of water pressure to keep out so it shouldn't be too difficult.
That is unless your like a friend of mine with two college degrees that can cross thread a wing nut on a battery terminal!Then you could pay some dope like me that didn't graduate from highschool to do it!
Shit you can figure out how to use a computor!
I did a repair just like that on an aluminum boat that lasted 15 years!If the wood is good and dry when installed it will swell when wet. If you get the mating surfaces shaped pretty similar it should work dam well.The bonus is that now you have a skid plate on the bottom!

I was thingking the same thing. But the hole is so far back on the yak that trying to get to it on the inside will be an issue. I'll probably just ahve the OEX guys do it.
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