Options Hoop net line hauling?

[oneyedeer]

Besides doing it by hand have anybody used winch or something to retrieve their pots? Powered? If you have a setup can you post....Thanks a bunch!

[erinoo]

If your mean hooping from a yak, by hand is easy and simple, but I dont hoop in water much deeper than 30'.

[sdfisher]

look up Jim Day, he has made some hoop netting stuff

[oneyedeer]

dang put this thread in wrong forum

[Siebler]

Originally Posted by oneyedeer

dang put this thread in wrong forum

Its all good, Moved it for ya

[Saba Slayer]

Check out Ace-Line Haulers...12volt and 150ft./minute
the Red Riser is a good way to go with a manual hauler if you can find one. The Folbe block is the pulley to use if you make your own. Scotty sells the Trap-Eze, it's the cheapest and simplest of the manual pullers to use on your kayak.
Jim / Saba Slayer

[maui jim]

Siebler....I always liked Uncle Ted...

[Fiskadoro]

Originally Posted by oneyedeer

Besides doing it by hand have anybody used winch or something to retrieve their pots? Powered?

At the risk of stirring up controversy: Someone emailed me about this and the answer is Yes and Yes. People use both booms and powered pullers and they are both legal.

Booms definitely do make it easier to pull nets and if you want to pull longer hour wise they are not a bad way to go. With a power puller you can stay out there all night long.

Here's my Yak boom setup:



You can read about it more here: http://www.bigwatersedge.com/bwevb/s...ead.php?t=6394 Just scroll down the page.

Booms are great I prefer ones that get the rope up high so you can use your weight pulling down and they hold the net up out of the water when your done.

I also built my own powered puller for my skiff, but since this is a kayak board I'm not going to post it. Basically powered pullers have no place on kayaks. That said if you want one for your skiff like Saba says check out the Ace-Line Haulers which run on12volt at about 150ft./minute.

The one I built is roughly twice as fast as the Ace pullers but with the cone nets now available today you do not need the kind of speed we used to.

Good luck, Jim

[oneyedeer]

Yeah I saw your setup and that's where I got the idea from but your design is one word awesome! I'm just planning to bend a stick and stick it in a hole how high is it and when you pull how hard is it keeping balance...i got a outfitter so that sucker is a tank

[Fiskadoro]

Originally Posted by oneyedeer

Yeah I saw your setup and that's where I got the idea from but your design is one word awesome! I'm just planning to bend a stick and stick it in a hole how high is it and when you pull how hard is it keeping balance...i got a outfitter so that sucker is a tank

Sorry for the late reply. Just busy. Also since I'm hardly ever here anymore I'm much easier to reach by email. Try skiffybusiness@hotmail.com

First off a lot of this is all trial and error, and you have to find what works for you. Basically I tried three different designs before I settled on this boom design , but it's worked flawless for years now, and it really extends my hooping time on the water.

So a few things: Positioning is crucial if you want to use a boom, but the mounting is very important as well.

My kayak boom is about 26 inches above the water line, and the block is directly above the edge of the kayak at easy arms reach when sitting. The deal is you want to be able to put your rope over the block without moving from your sitting position, and pull while sitting.

It's even with the edge of the yak so the rope won't rub to hard on the side but not way out over the water for balance reasons. Don't be tempted to put it too far out over the water or it will try to pull you over, so it's best to have it right even with the edge of your yak, at least that's what works for me.

The base has to be fixed so it can't swing or swivel, if it did swivel it would pull foreward or back and get out of position depending on where the hoop is in relation to your yak.

Mounting wise my boom sits in a sleeve that's pinned like a rod holder but unlike a rod holder the sleeve is in a frame which bolts to the yak but also clamps onto a bar so it has six separate mounting points to the yak spread out across the deck each with 1/4 stainless bolts backed with 1" stainless fender washers.

Here you can see the sleeve and two mounting bolts:


Those two bolts don't really hold it though the bar and it's four mounting points take the brunt of the load by distributing the torque over a large area.



If there is one thing you got to have it's a strong secure mounting. system otherwise your boom will just rip itself right out of your deck.

A few other things.

Unlike when your pulling by hand the boom puts all the energy or torque from any angle right into your boat. So when you set up for a pull you want to take your time and get positioned right over your net. Otherwise you will find your yak will really want to move around in response to pulling your net. This can mean it will scoot forward or back but also if you're off to the side it may try and pull you over, don't just blindly paddle up and grab the rope and start pulling, it's a tool, like a gun, or a drill, you have to think about it to use it right.

Additionally when your pulling with a overhead boom you need to figure out how to make enough slack in the rope to get it over the boom, without disturbing the net.

You can do this with leaving a little extra rope in the water, and just paddling up till you're right over the net.

Personally I use a clip like the one in this old rigging pic of mine.

I clip off maybe six or more feet of slack, so when I paddle up I just lift the float rode unclip the longline clip, and then I have about six feet of slack to put the line on the boom and situate myself for the pull.

One more thing.

There are certain non-motorized boom products out there designed for boats not yaks that are quite expensive. People always ask me about them.

They are too big for yaks but my take is even for boats they are a total rip off.

A piece of tube with a stock block on the end, that you then stick in a rod holder is not a Avet Magicast and shouldn't cost as much as quality lever drag fishing reel.

Where these guys get off selling a $10 bent piece of 6061 aluminum tube and a $40 stock Folbe block for $259 is beyond me. It's ridiculous.

Build your own don't pay a fortune for one.

You can buy 1/8 walled 6061 tubing at any metal supply. You can buy the exact same block they are using on those expensive booms here:


http://www.midwesthuntersoutlet.com/..._Crab_Pot.aspx
For $39.99 plus $2.99 shipping

Take a 3 foot section of 1-1/2 6061 1/8 wall drill a hole in one end and mount the block to it and you will have a boom that will do everything the expensive ones do at less the a fifth of the price.

So there you have it

Jim