Optimal Jig Stick Length On Kayak

[SoCalEDC]

Hey guys,


Im looking for something to throw surface irons with from the yak. I am currently using a 7' glass rod and a sealine 50h w/ 40# mono but I would like to get something a little longer and maybe use my avet with magic cast with it or one of penns new fathoms.

What length do you guys find comfortable for casting on a kayak?

I was eye balling the graftech grof78H (i think thats the 40-50# rated model).
any other recommendations from SI specialists?

Thanks,
Ant

[FullFlavorPike]

Personally, on the kayak I find it hard to load up a traditional, glass jigstick so it will really throw an iron. These rods were designed for use standing up on a boat, not sitting down. Then again, I'm admittedly no surface iron expert.

I have used my Daiwa DXSB 801 12-40# swimbait rod with a 300 size lexa to throw surface irons a few times, and it casts well from a seated position. Of course, there's a problem with using that setup for that purpose because it is straight braid to a short piece of fluoro, which is good for swimbaits but isn't ideal for irons because you don't get mono stretch or glass rod action to help keep even pressure on a treble hook. Trade offs.

You probably shouldn't listen to me because I don't fish surface irons; but that's because I can't seem to make that setup work on a kayak for myself, so I carry swimbaits around instead.

[iethinker]

My opinion....Agree that the short "jig-sticks" are not optimal for kayak. I have come to love my Daiwa Proteus Inshore rod for throwing most anything. Swim-Jigs, Tady-C, Tady-TLC, even good with Salas 6x Jr, Etc...

Mine is a PRIN76MHFB

Get a Lexa or a Saltist for reel.

I fish what most people call "bargain" equipment for trolling and bottom fishing but for casting all-day, the better stuff radically out performs. Use conventional or large format baitcaster for casting heavier weight lures on kayak...no arguments! I use a 2x rod length leader (25-lb +/-) and an FG-knot to braid with no problems.

For heavy YOYO I do go to a heavier set-up (still 7-feet) but I could drop my Tady-4/0 off the Proteus Inshore as well. A crisp 7.6' rod with braid is wonderfully sensitive for rock-fishing. You are on a kayak and having a rod that works for arm-casting and loading well during fight means going a bit lighter than some "boaters" would have you believe.

[skrilla]

You're on a kayak so you're stealthy. Instead of using a longrod for distance try moving in closer.

Most rods I use on the kayak are 7-7'6. Tried landing fish on a 10fter... never again.

[globalwad]

Originally Posted by skrilla

You're on a kayak so you're stealthy. Instead of using a longrod for distance try moving in closer.

This

[YakDout]

I like 8’ rods for jigs on kayak. 7’ for bait.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[tak100]

The longest rod that will fit in the back of your pick-up.

[SoCalEDC]

quick update. Went rod shopping on Saturday, but Turners was closed. Ended up at Bass Pro Shop. Rod selection was pretty slim which surprised me. about a month ago I was there looking at gear and they had a ton of rods in stock. I found an Okuma mixed in with the Shimanos that caught my eye, after having the sales guy pull on the tips (hey now) of a few rods I decided to go with the Okuma Guide Select swim bait rod 7'-11" XH (15-40#, 2-10oz. lure). Its a little lighter than I had in mind but it felt great in hand, balance was nice, and the salesman mounted one of the display MXJ reels on it since thats what I am going to stack it with. Its a little more parabolic than I had in mind but that should help if I want to use it for big rockfish swim baits too I suppose. Over all I am pretty stoked.

My reel is brand new and its been sitting around waiting for a home for a while so I've yet to put any line on it. I plan to spool it with 65# jbraid (4 carrier) and 30-40# mono top shot (75-100 yds), likely berkley trilene because thats what I have spools of. An alberto with the 30 may pass through the guides just a little easier than the 40#, but the 40# is obvi gonna give me a little more juice.

I would love to hear any thoughts on 30# vs 40# for the top shot.

[tak100]

For a jig stick I would personally go with the heavier line. If the jigs are working the fish usually aren't line shy.

If you are worried about your joiner knot going thru the guides use a short leader, 4-5' that always stays out of the guides. You will be surprised how long a 100 yard spool of leader will last you!

I now use this technique even for fly lining bait. If it makes a difference I really have not noticed. Bait selection and movement seem much more important.

Tight lines.

[tyunk29]

Originally Posted by SoCalEDC

quick update. Went rod shopping on Saturday, but Turners was closed. Ended up at Bass Pro Shop. Rod selection was pretty slim which surprised me. about a month ago I was there looking at gear and they had a ton of rods in stock. I found an Okuma mixed in with the Shimanos that caught my eye, after having the sales guy pull on the tips (hey now) of a few rods I decided to go with the Okuma Guide Select swim bait rod 7'-11" XH (15-40#, 2-10oz. lure). Its a little lighter than I had in mind but it felt great in hand, balance was nice, and the salesman mounted one of the display MXJ reels on it since thats what I am going to stack it with. Its a little more parabolic than I had in mind but that should help if I want to use it for big rockfish swim baits too I suppose. Over all I am pretty stoked.

My reel is brand new and its been sitting around waiting for a home for a while so I've yet to put any line on it. I plan to spool it with 65# jbraid (4 carrier) and 30-40# mono top shot (75-100 yds), likely berkley trilene because thats what I have spools of. An alberto with the 30 may pass through the guides just a little easier than the 40#, but the 40# is obvi gonna give me a little more juice.

I would love to hear any thoughts on 30# vs 40# for the top shot.

I bought the same rod last year and I like it a lot. We must have talked to the same salesman. When I went in there I wasn't even considering that rod but he turned me onto it and I don't regret the decision at all.

[iethinker]

Originally Posted by SoCalEDC

quick update. Went rod shopping on Saturday, but Turners was closed. Ended up at Bass Pro Shop. Rod selection was pretty slim which surprised me. about a month ago I was there looking at gear and they had a ton of rods in stock. I found an Okuma mixed in with the Shimanos that caught my eye, after having the sales guy pull on the tips (hey now) of a few rods I decided to go with the Okuma Guide Select swim bait rod 7'-11" XH (15-40#, 2-10oz. lure). Its a little lighter than I had in mind but it felt great in hand, balance was nice, and the salesman mounted one of the display MXJ reels on it since thats what I am going to stack it with. Its a little more parabolic than I had in mind but that should help if I want to use it for big rockfish swim baits too I suppose. Over all I am pretty stoked.

My reel is brand new and its been sitting around waiting for a home for a while so I've yet to put any line on it. I plan to spool it with 65# jbraid (4 carrier) and 30-40# mono top shot (75-100 yds), likely berkley trilene because thats what I have spools of. An alberto with the 30 may pass through the guides just a little easier than the 40#, but the 40# is obvi gonna give me a little more juice.

I would love to hear any thoughts on 30# vs 40# for the top shot.

Like I said...big swimbait rod...you will be happy with the lighter format...good choice. You will cast further and more times without fatigue.
More flex is better for casting and fighting fish on treble hook equipped jigs....all though yours is rated fast-action...the longer length just gives it a longer flex section....will accommodate single hook swim jigs as well. I use 2x-rod-length leader of 20-lb, 25-lb or 30-lb trilene big game over 30, 40 or 50-lb 4-strand braid depending on mood, target fish or kelp or lure weight. Always FG-Knot. Go lighter and cast further with less effort. Go lighter with less leader to get jigs to the bottom (rock fish) and retain sensitivity. I challenge you to tie some fresh 30-lb braid to 2x-rod length of a 20-lb leader and then tie the leader to something solid. With full leader deployed, pull against it in your yard or wherever just to set your reference...can you acheive full compression? Don't break your new rod...seriously. Then decide what line you want on your reel. Max for me is 30/50...unbreakable, cuts kelp, etc...but are you regularly fishing la Jolla?

[SoCalEDC]

Originally Posted by tak100

For a jig stick I would personally go with the heavier line. If the jigs are working the fish usually aren't line shy.

If you are worried about your joiner knot going thru the guides use a short leader, 4-5' that always stays out of the guides. You will be surprised how long a 100 yard spool of leader will last you!

I now use this technique even for fly lining bait. If it makes a difference I really have not noticed. Bait selection and movement seem much more important.

Tight lines.

Thanks for the tips. I will keep that in mind.

Originally Posted by tyunk29

I bought the same rod last year and I like it a lot. We must have talked to the same salesman. When I went in there I wasn't even considering that rod but he turned me onto it and I don't regret the decision at all.

right on, this is reassuring. I am hoping to have time to spool it up and take it out this weekend.

Originally Posted by iethinker

Like I said...big swimbait rod...you will be happy with the lighter format...good choice. You will cast further and more times without fatigue.
More flex is better for casting and fighting fish on treble hook equipped jigs....all though yours is rated fast-action...the longer length just gives it a longer flex section....will accommodate single hook swim jigs as well. I use 2x-rod-length leader of 20-lb, 25-lb or 30-lb trilene big game over 30, 40 or 50-lb 4-strand braid depending on mood, target fish or kelp or lure weight. Always FG-Knot. Go lighter and cast further with less effort. Go lighter with less leader to get jigs to the bottom (rock fish) and retain sensitivity. I challenge you to tie some fresh 30-lb braid to 2x-rod length of a 20-lb leader and then tie the leader to something solid. With full leader deployed, pull against it in your yard or wherever just to set your reference...can you acheive full compression? Don't break your new rod...seriously. Then decide what line you want on your reel. Max for me is 30/50...unbreakable, cuts kelp, etc...but are you regularly fishing la Jolla?

Thanks for the information, and yea i think you nailed it in your first post. I like the idea of keeping the leader short (relatively,10-20') for sensativity I am just concerned about casting (mostly) straight braid. I will have to try it out and see how I like it. You bring up a good point tho, I wasn't considering the sensativity when using it for bottom fishing because right now I have set ups for that so it was going to be a secondary role for this rod, however, if i want to use this to fish deep swimbaits in a horizontal fashion now and again I could have an issue with a ton of mono on there.

[FISH11]

Originally Posted by YakDout

I like 8’ rods for jigs on kayak. 7’ for bait.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

X2

[summers in kuwait]

I have used 8´ rods in the past for surface irons and they will help considerably to extend casting range, but personally I don't have any rods longer than 7´ now. I find the shorter rods offering more power when fighting fish.

[SoCalEDC]

Originally Posted by FullFlavorPike

Personally, on the kayak I find it hard to load up a traditional, glass jigstick so it will really throw an iron. These rods were designed for use standing up on a boat, not sitting down. Then again, I'm admittedly no surface iron expert.

I have used my Daiwa DXSB 801 12-40# swimbait rod with a 300 size lexa to throw surface irons a few times, and it casts well from a seated position. Of course, there's a problem with using that setup for that purpose because it is straight braid to a short piece of fluoro, which is good for swimbaits but isn't ideal for irons because you don't get mono stretch or glass rod action to help keep even pressure on a treble hook. Trade offs.

You probably shouldn't listen to me because I don't fish surface irons; but that's because I can't seem to make that setup work on a kayak for myself, so I carry swimbaits around instead.

Originally Posted by iethinker

My opinion....Agree that the short "jig-sticks" are not optimal for kayak. I have come to love my Daiwa Proteus Inshore rod for throwing most anything. Swim-Jigs, Tady-C, Tady-TLC, even good with Salas 6x Jr, Etc...

Mine is a PRIN76MHFB

Get a Lexa or a Saltist for reel.

I fish what most people call "bargain" equipment for trolling and bottom fishing but for casting all-day, the better stuff radically out performs. Use conventional or large format baitcaster for casting heavier weight lures on kayak...no arguments! I use a 2x rod length leader (25-lb +/-) and an FG-knot to braid with no problems.

For heavy YOYO I do go to a heavier set-up (still 7-feet) but I could drop my Tady-4/0 off the Proteus Inshore as well. A crisp 7.6' rod with braid is wonderfully sensitive for rock-fishing. You are on a kayak and having a rod that works for arm-casting and loading well during fight means going a bit lighter than some "boaters" would have you believe.

Originally Posted by skrilla

You're on a kayak so you're stealthy. Instead of using a longrod for distance try moving in closer.

Most rods I use on the kayak are 7-7'6. Tried landing fish on a 10fter... never again.

Originally Posted by YakDout

I like 8’ rods for jigs on kayak. 7’ for bait.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Originally Posted by tak100

The longest rod that will fit in the back of your pick-up.

Originally Posted by FISH11

X2

Originally Posted by summers in kuwait

I have used 8´ rods in the past for surface irons and they will help considerably to extend casting range, but personally I don't have any rods longer than 7´ now. I find the shorter rods offering more power when fighting fish.

Thanks for the input fellas. I looked at a couple of rods in the 7-6" to 8' range and I am all but sold on a one particular rod (the Californian tri-helix 8'). I am still deciding if I want to use a reel I already have or buy another one. I will have to try a couple of my current reels on the rod before I make that decision.

[FullFlavorPike]

That tri-helix will either give you the best of both worlds, or highlight the shortcomings of both glass and graphite contstruction