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Old 08-18-2017, 08:09 PM   #1
socalyaker556
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HELP!!

Just picked up a FF finally and installing on 2017 pa14. I have the hobie lowrance kit. Anyone have photos of how the hooked up the in line fuse??

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Old 08-18-2017, 08:11 PM   #2
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Im electronically stupid!

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Old 08-19-2017, 06:06 AM   #3
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You just crimp somewhere in between the battery and the head unit on the red wire.
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Old 08-19-2017, 06:09 AM   #4
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Its so easy a caveman could do it





Make sure to use shrink tubing. And solder it if you know how.
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Old 08-19-2017, 06:42 AM   #5
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I didn't use the inline fuse
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Old 08-19-2017, 07:20 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jorluivil View Post
I didn't use the inline fuse
Please explain why you did not use one? Pros vs cons, thanks.
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Old 08-19-2017, 07:30 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by makobob View Post
Please explain why you did not use one? Pros vs cons, thanks.
Pros: if for some reason your fishfinder were to draw extra current, you could destroy it. A 3A fuse will prevent this as only the fuse will blow.

Cons:Extra connections that could fail or become loose. Also, if you are out on the water without a spare and the fuse blows you can't use the GPS unit at all.
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Old 08-19-2017, 08:26 AM   #8
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use a heat shrink butt connector for the best sealed connection.

https://www.westmarine.com/buy/ancor...yABEgIx3vD_BwE
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Old 08-19-2017, 09:39 AM   #9
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Please explain why you did not use one? Pros vs cons, thanks.




The Bioenno Power Lithium Iron Phosphate (LiFePO4) Battery Model BLF-1212W is a state of the art 12V 12Ah battery. Electrically identical to the popular BLF-1212W, this WS ABS Sealed variant is the drop in solution for your system and application and offers the proven world-class performance of a Bioenno Power battery in a form factor you are familiar with. Ideal for hard use, this ABS version has seen extensive use powering critical avionics on sail planes with additional applications covering e-bike, e-scooter, radio communications and audio-visual. No EMI/RFI (Electromagnetic Interference/Radio-Frequency Interference) and is absolutely quiet. This unit has available a 110VAC/220 VAC AC-to-DC charger, that provides 2A with alligator clips, sold separately.

Includes built-in PCM (protection circuit module) which provides internal cell balancing and management, protection from overcurrent, undervoltage (overdischarge), overvoltage and short circuiting, and has integrated charging circuitry.

Battery Specifications

Voltage: 12V
Capacity: 12 Ah
ABS Hard Pack
Charge/Discharge Terminals: Fast-on F2
Maximum Continuous Discharge Current: 24A (Make sure your load consumes less than 24A)
Maximum Peak Pulse Current: 48A (for 2 sec.)
Max Power Delivered to Load @ 12V: 288 Watts (12v x 24A = 288 Watts) (Make sure your load consumes less than 288 Watts continuous)
Dimensions: 6.0 in. x 4.0 in. x 3.8 in. (153 mm x 102 mm x 96 mm)
Weight: 3.7 lbs. (1.7 kg.)
Manufactures Warranty: 2 Years

AC-to-DC Charger Specifications (sold separately)

Input Voltage: 110VAC/220 VAC
Output Voltage: 14.6VDC
Current: 2A
Connector: Alligator Clips
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Old 08-20-2017, 10:24 AM   #10
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Recommended by Raymarine for my fishfinder is a thermal circuit breaker instead of a fuse. They are cheap even at West Marine and I like that if it ever trips I can reset it instead of being stuck on the water without a replacement fuse.
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Old 08-19-2017, 07:21 AM   #11
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Don't feel bad. No one is born with knowledge. It is gained.


Click the link to a sample picture of a in-line fuse.

One line to battery positive, and other to the device. The fuse must be rated by the manufacturer to provide proper protection.
Unless you make a mistake of using different batteries with higher voltage rating, you really don't need fuse protection. Or if you charge the battery with device connected, thus the charger puts out higher voltage.

In saltwater environment, the less "exposed" connection points the better.
All of the connections should be sealed with shrink tube or plastic paste.

A dab of electrical grease at the monitor connection is recommended too.


https://www.delcity.net/store/AGC-He...20group%20%231


I hope above helps.
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Old 08-19-2017, 08:44 AM   #12
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I figired it out lastnight thanks guys... i had 2 different connectors that was mu biggest queation just wantes some input... im on the water and its working like a charm

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Old 08-19-2017, 09:31 AM   #13
goldenglory18
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Without a fuse you can also run into a situation where the battery starts a fire.

Use a fuse, its 100% worth the extra connection.
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Old 08-20-2017, 11:57 AM   #14
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Quote:
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Without a fuse you can also run into a situation where the battery starts a fire.

Use a fuse, its 100% worth the extra connection.
But there's plenty of water to put it out!
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Old 08-20-2017, 01:15 PM   #15
socalyaker556
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Thank for all the feedback guys. Just dropped a shit ton of $ amd wanted to be %100 sure

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Old 08-20-2017, 03:16 PM   #16
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One of the main jobs of a fuse is to protect the wire.

From https://www.bluesea.com

https://www.bluesea.com/support/arti...uit_Protection



Electrical shorts are the number one cause of fires on boats. In fact, more than half of boat fires are electrical in origin. More than half of those are caused by short circuits, most in the DC circuits. If you add any circuits to your boat, make sure they are protected.
Important factors to consider when adding circuit protection to your boat’s DC electrical system include:
Ampere Interrupt Capacity (AIC)
Mounting location
Overcurrent protection (7/40/72 Rule)
Ignition protection
If more current flows in a wire than the wire is rated to handle, the wire can heat up, its protective insulation can melt, and the heated wire can start a fire. This overcurrent condition can occur, for example, when a short circuit occurs. Fuses and circuit breakers are used to limit the amount of current that flows through circuit wires. Except for those wires that are intended to carry starting currents, every positive wire in the DC main power distribution system must be protected by a fuse or circuit breaker.
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