|
|
|
02-14-2011, 08:28 PM
|
#1 |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 552
|
hacking up my yak
Well, I've been thinking of taking the plunge for a few years now. I've discussed my idea with Jim Day, and he also decided to give it a try. We both went and bought almost everything we need, made a brief start, and put it away to move on to other things. Well, something happened that lit a fire under my hiney, so I'm back at it again. So what the hell am I up to you probably asking; well being a previous owner of a Hobie Outback, I came to appreciate their pedal drive, but simply hated their hull designs, so I decided to make my Current Design, Alutra into a pedal drive. So I started with making a fiberglass mold that the pedal drive sets into. I did however, mold in 14" stainless so I would have a solid mounting of the drives mounting clips. Here are a few pictures.
The glass mold http://i333.photobucket.com/albums/m...g?t=1297743050 Mold and supplies http://i333.photobucket.com/albums/m...g?t=1297743050 Stainless pieces http://i333.photobucket.com/albums/m...g?t=1297743050 Stainless glassed in place http://i333.photobucket.com/albums/m...g?t=1297743050 Today I cut holes in the yak, so I can glass the fiberglass drive housing into the yak. I'll post those pictures of me cutting up a perfectly good kayak sometime tomorrow. |
|
|
|
02-14-2011, 10:30 PM
|
#2 |
|
Currently @ MLO Territory
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Under the Shadow
Posts: 2,290
|
your pictures are so tiny i need a microscope to see whats going on
|
|
|
|
|
02-15-2011, 12:05 AM
|
#3 |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 552
|
|
|
|
|
|
02-15-2011, 12:34 AM
|
#4 |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 6,856
|
Fiberglass to plastic? Will this work?
I've only worked with fiberglass once, helped make a hatch cover for a old Bayliner but that was it. I'm curious to see how this will look at the end........good job on the mold!!! |
|
|
|
|
02-15-2011, 12:40 AM
|
#5 |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 552
|
Tuna Taxi, no, no plastic at all; My yak is a glass composite yak. I seriously don't see a glass to plastic attempt holding water for long. The part of the glassed mold that will be visible is a carbon kevlar composite. I'll be posting pics later, and as I go. Thus far it's looking good.
|
|
|
|
|
02-15-2011, 04:48 AM
|
#6 |
|
Currently @ MLO Territory
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Under the Shadow
Posts: 2,290
|
Much better! I don't know what I am looking at, but I would love to see how this piece would fit when the mold is completed.
|
|
|
|
|
02-15-2011, 05:14 AM
|
#7 |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 6,856
|
Much like my marriage of 20years, it makes sense now.
|
|
|
|
|
02-15-2011, 05:53 AM
|
#8 |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Wrightwood
Posts: 623
|
Interesting idea, I have thought about trying to do the same to one of my kayaks. I just never got the balls to seriously start hacking. Good luck and keep us updated.
|
|
|
|
|
02-15-2011, 07:25 AM
|
#9 | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
.......
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,509
|
Quote:
What he's doing (and yes I'm making one as well) is putting a Hobie drive into a Current Designs Altura...  The Altura is a Kevlar composite kayak that's fifteen feet long and about 55 pounds they were marketed as a high end alternative to plastic fishing kayaks and retailed for just under two grand. These kayaks are very fast, handle well in the surf and they stronger and lighter then anything on the market in their size class because they are made from Kevlar which is something like as strong as steel though lighter weight then fiber glass. Since Kevlar is laid up with the same process and resins as glass it's fully glass compatible, and in fact the production Altura has both glass and Kevlar elements in it's construction. Here's the stats:
Current designs usually builds touring kayaks, and the reason they make them out of kevlar is not only are they lighter weight but also stiffer then other materials which makes them faster. The less flex you have in the hull the more paddle energy goes into forward progress. So this design is actually about the fastest paddle driven sit on top fishing kayak ever produced even though it's now been discontinued. As soon as I saw it I wanted it as I already knew their specs, but also for a while I had been toying around with the idea of putting a Hobie drive into a non-Hobie yak, and the Altura with it's strong specs and composite construction was the perfect opportunity for me to do that without building another kayak up from scratch. I've long been a fan for the merits and technology of the Hobie drive, but have never been a fan of their actual kayaks. So the idea for me was to take their superior drive system and put it into a superior kayak, that should out perform other yaks even stock Hobies especially in the surf. Naturally when he brought it by the shop topic turned to what I planned to do with it which got him interested in the idea of putting a Hobie drive in his Altura as well. We got a hold of a Hobie made some molds purchased our drives retail as replacements and ever since then for me the projects been on the back burner. I always have a ton of projects and this happens a lot for me but Gary is now boldly going it on his own, partially he claims to get me off my ass and building my own  So what he's done is made a glass plug off a mold that will now hold the drive in the new yak.  That looks like the form upside down laminated out of carbon, kevlar and a glass composite.  That looks like a detail of where the drive locks go.  Looks like he's cut out stainless that's going to be tapped for the locks mounting screws.  ...and there he has glassed over those mounts..So Gary it looks great. I would of probably predrilled the mounting plates and tapped them, then glassed them in place with bolts already in them. That said you've made great process. So when are you going to cut the hole in the hull? Your welcome to bring it by when you want to do it. If I was you I'd find someone with a Revo and measure the distance from the slot to the seat again. It's the old Rastifarian proverb, measure twice cut once...  That applies to boat hulls more then anything. Good stuff.... Jim Last edited by Iceman; 02-22-2011 at 01:16 PM. |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
|
|
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
02-15-2011, 12:38 PM
|
#10 |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Wildomar, CA.
Posts: 294
|
Gotta say that looks like one hard core project!
 Always wondered if and when someone would attempt this.Question for either of you: How are you lining up the "drive" to the keel to keep aligned? Are you fabricating some type of form or chalk lining the drive & keel for alignment? If your off a bit will you go in circles?
|
|
|
|
|
02-15-2011, 12:42 PM
|
#11 | |
|
Greg
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Chula Vista, ca
Posts: 509
|
Quote:
|
|
|
|
|
|
02-15-2011, 12:51 PM
|
#12 |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 552
|
Well considering that the Hobie Outback (I purchased brand spankin new) I owned did a 10 foot radius, I figure I can do much better than Hobie, seriously.
Actually I used several methods in lining up my drive; the bottom side of the yak has a shallow arch, so one can simply turn the yak upside down, line up a chalk line with the center of the yak, clearly visible at the front and rear by it's pointy sections. I did the same on the topside, I also measured it in several ways, in addition to using a laser. Since the topside higest points are flat, it's pretty easy to use a square and bring it around the yak, i.e., bottom, top, and sides. Considering that you really need a rudder with a pedal drive, the rudder should easily compensate for any minor maladjustment; yet I'm confident in my alignment. |
|
|
|
|
02-15-2011, 01:08 PM
|
#13 |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: newbury park ca
Posts: 2,323
|
that's going to be one heck of a hot rod kayak...will follow this post, I am sure it will turn out bitchin...excellent
|
|
|
|
|
02-15-2011, 06:13 PM
|
#14 |
|
Olivenhain Bob
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Olivenhain, CA
Posts: 1,121
|
As Yogi Berra might have said, " You don't know what you don't know". I am a happy Revo driver and while the design is not perfect I do not find much to complain about. I am curious as to what Jim and Gary object to about the Hobie hull design.
I can see some advantages to the kevlar hull. The stiffness and smooth skin should enhance both speed and handling as long as the mirage drive is installed in a location that does not fight with the fluid dynamics of the hull. The lighter weight should also be a plus. On the other hand, I can bang my yak into just about anything without causing any damage. Can the same be said about a glass kayak? So tell us what we don't yet know. What's wrong with Hobie hull designs? Bob |
|
|
|
 |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|
Hybrid Mode
